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I'm going to have to drop the bumper and bend both the radiator cradle and the fender to get the lines right. It sucks but there isn't any other way to do it.
The bolt thing you're talking about is aiming the headlights and these have them. All that does is tweak the bulb housing orientation though, not move the whole light assembly.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LogicWavelength
This thread (T.E.A.R.S.) was inspired by speedfoos. We all know about his very public and very obscene battle against his car's engine.
There's a good chance that I'm not going to answer your PM.
Clint, my hood lines up the same exact way with my headlights and fenders. I'm sure its my damn hood because that cheap shop I got that work done, told me they had to take off the hood for paint?
Stupid.
I'm putting my car on hold until after I get into the Coast Guard and actually start making some money.. my minimum wage job wasn't enough, and now that school is done I'm just going to go off of life savings until the middle of January.
When I get out of boot i'll be in VA, I might want a body shop to fix all these dents and paint the car over again, could you recommend a good body shop in NC? Just wondering..
Clint, my hood lines up the same exact way with my headlights and fenders. I'm sure its my damn hood because that cheap shop I got that work done, told me they had to take off the hood for paint?
Stupid.
I'm putting my car on hold until after I get into the Coast Guard and actually start making some money.. my minimum wage job wasn't enough, and now that school is done I'm just going to go off of life savings until the middle of January.
When I get out of boot i'll be in VA, I might want a body shop to fix all these dents and paint the car over again, could you recommend a good body shop in NC? Just wondering..
It should be pretty easy to re-align the hood though. It's a just a matter of loosening the hood bolts and tweaking it to get it just right.
As far as body shops here in NC...dunno. Since I do all my own stuff I usually don't look around for shops. I do know a good performance fabrication shop so I'll see who they recommend.
Here's a pic of the relays like I promised. I finished wiring up the HID harness so that's done. However My fucking bumper cracked when I was pulling it off this morning. I'm up in the air on whether I'm going to fix it or replace it. No pics of it cuz I'm pissed. It's about an inch long crack right below the headlights. Blech.
So what else did I do today? A lot as usual.
Finished all my welds and took the spatter off the pipes. Then, since I don't want things to get hot, I painted them all black.
Look. It comes in pints. A lot cheaper than the rattle cans. $10 for this guy at Lowes.
Then it was time to get in the tunnel. I flattened out the rest of that brace...
And started running my heat shielding. I used little strips of aluminum as brackets/braces is a couple places to hold the blanket up like so:
And self tapping screws with washers for the rest of it. Here's a shot of the front of the tunnel after I was done.
And then I dropped the gas tank bracket and used that to hold part of the rest of the blanket. I figured that running self-tappers into the gas tank was a bad idea so this worked instead.
Gas tank is on the right, looking in from the driver's side.
And that's that for today. That mat is backed with fiberglass insulation so my face is all itchy now.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by LogicWavelength
This thread (T.E.A.R.S.) was inspired by speedfoos. We all know about his very public and very obscene battle against his car's engine.
There's a good chance that I'm not going to answer your PM.
Gotta give props man, you definetely know how to get shit done. I need lessons, I havent gotten to finish your rail, hehe. Ran out of argon today finishing up another job so I'm SOL till at least Monday.
nice work man , i love how u do it slow and so properly except for ur bumper lol sorry i had to rub it in :P its nothing tho hehe
Thanks Jay.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 02fpcivic
Gotta give props man, you definetely know how to get shit done. I need lessons, I havent gotten to finish your rail, hehe. Ran out of argon today finishing up another job so I'm SOL till at least Monday.
That's the difference between doing this stuff as a hobby and doing this for a living Gerry. It's easy for me to take a break from other stuff to work on my car. I couldn't do this for a living. No worries on the rail, I figured you're still busy. Just let me know when it's done because Andy's kpro is on the way and I'm starting to get a little antsy to change out the fuel system.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by LogicWavelength
This thread (T.E.A.R.S.) was inspired by speedfoos. We all know about his very public and very obscene battle against his car's engine.
There's a good chance that I'm not going to answer your PM.
Well, not a lot of pics today - one, to be exact - as it was more grunt work than anything. Painted the other side of the exhaust. I must say, being able to brush that stuff on instead of rattle canning it makes a big difference. You can get a nice thick coat without all that overspray.
I cleaned up my IC piping and lopped a couple tabs off my alternator bracket. Then my wife came home with some stripper so I sent my wife back out, kept the stripper and decided I had enough of the stealth FMIC. Too bad the stripper was in a can..
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by LogicWavelength
This thread (T.E.A.R.S.) was inspired by speedfoos. We all know about his very public and very obscene battle against his car's engine.
There's a good chance that I'm not going to answer your PM.
Re-wrapped the DP and put it on. And for those of you who either buy those metal cable ties, or use radiator worm clamps - fuck all that. Get yourself a roll of lock wire like this:
And run two bands of like this:
Job done, it doesn't look like ass with a bunch of hose clamps, and it's a lot cheaper than metal cable ties.
I got new nuts.
And clamped up my raddy hoses. Yes, it's ghetto, but it works and it's the only way I could run the hoses around everything.
Oh, and my allie cylinders arrived yesterday. They are a lot longer than I thought they would be. so I won't be able to use them for an overflow and a catchcan.
But God Bless the inventor who thought up zip ties.
I'm off to Lowes to get some PVC tubing to make a new catch can. More updates later.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by LogicWavelength
This thread (T.E.A.R.S.) was inspired by speedfoos. We all know about his very public and very obscene battle against his car's engine.
There's a good chance that I'm not going to answer your PM.
why dont you cut them then reweld them together shorter? i know its aluminum but i know a shop would do it for cheap if you dont have the tools for aluminum welding
why dont you cut them then reweld them together shorter? i know its aluminum but i know a shop would do it for cheap if you dont have the tools for aluminum welding
Meh. Cuz I already made this catchcan instead. Plus a five-inch diameter cylinder is really big.
OK, since my allie cylinders didn't work out, I switched to PVC. I went to Lowes and got some 3" PVC pipe, caps, brass fittings, and some steel wool. ***Disclaimer: I stole this idea from a DIY on d-series.org***
One of my caps has the big plug on the end which will allow me to change out the steel wool whenever I decide it's time. This is also where I tapped the pipe for the drain fitting.
But since it's just an open pipe, it needed a baffle. Here's an old Rubbermaid lid that I can't find the bin for. Looks like a good source of plastic to me! Draw some random crap on it and then cut your baffle pieces out.
Mix up a little JB Weld......
And install your first baffle.
Then cut another piece and put it across the top of the other baffle to make a "vacuum chamber". Basically it allows suction in one direction only. And this is the side I will be tapping for the vacuum port of the can. Combined with a little steel wool, there should be no chance of fluid getting sucked back in to the motor.
This step is unnecessary because of the giant plug at the bottom, but if you're using two closed caps instead of one, make sure you label which side and approximately where you are going to install your fittings.
1/2"-inch pipe fittings require a 3/4" hole. I used my Craftsman spade bit.
Mark the placement of your fittings and drill the holes. Hold the drill steady so it doesn't bind and the drill flies out of your hands. This usually only has to happen once before you're very careful. The cap isn't tall enough to stack the fittings so I staggered them.
Done.
A little paint and it will look a lot less ghetto.
I still need to add a sightline and a proper draincock, but that's that!
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by LogicWavelength
This thread (T.E.A.R.S.) was inspired by speedfoos. We all know about his very public and very obscene battle against his car's engine.
There's a good chance that I'm not going to answer your PM.
so I won't be able to use them for an overflow and a catchcan.
