Page 210 = The New Project!! -The Speedfoos' 383 Stroker thread!!

[Rufus]

I'm driving on Kpro now. Woot!

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[speedfoos]

Well, k-pro is on the list and will go in at some point this year. Once it goes in, the built block will be shortly after. I will have a couple tunes for it on dual stage boost controller. One for 8.7psi (Tial small Blue spring) for daily driving, and then a second stage for about 17 psi (doubled the WG spring, don't want to go any higher than that with a boost controller), with a label of "Fun Button". So we'll see what 8.7 psi and 17psi get me on this car.

[7thgen_vic]

WOOOOOT! glad to see you on the dyno finally my friend =)

265, wow. thats friggen awesome bro!~!

[7thgen_vic]

hey foos, check out my auction and look at the list if you hasnt seen it yet. depressing all the stuff i got done in her and finally tuned... very sad.


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Honda...em290209089017


http://s3.photobucket.com/albums/y95...EN/7THGENSALE/

[andyman97]

You don't need two maps, brotha.

[dopes6070]

Ya if you get it tuned for 17PSI then you can put the boost anywhere below there for daily driving on the same tune. I was running 14lbs on 91 octane and to go any higher I had to put in a bit of 100 octane.

[7thgen_vic]

Ok, due to so many people asking for pictures, i have uploaded most of what i got (still a few more if i keep digging through hard drives) to photobucket. Check out the subfolders.

I have also uploaded a few videos me and my friend took yesterday (sunday 2.34.08) of the car and a few pulls on the interstate, etc... to show the car is fine. I believe due to the back being a little messed up it was affecting the top end after 100mph, i remmebered it being a little quicker from 80 to 135... feel free to email me with questions. thanks!


http://s252.photobucket.com/albums/hh33/7thgen_vic/

http://www.youtube.com/nickbme06

[speedfoos]

Mwafuckit.

That's the new name for my car.

Good News

- I can remove and replace a tranny, with subframe, clutch and FW in 5 hours with stopping and bullshitting and helping other people work on their cars.

- The clutch, FW and pressure plate are all fine. So are the throwout and pilot bearings. The input shaft seems fine. There was no metal in my tranny fluid.

- I didn't have any extra parts when I was done putting the car back together.

The Bad News

- It still fucking squeaks.

Oil pan will come off as soon as my exhaust flex gets here. I don't feel like pulling the exhaust off twice.

So it could still be the ISB or a main or a rod bearing. Blech. I'm tired. Here are some pics. Couldn't get the passenger side LCA bolts out so had to pop the ball joint off on it. I pulled the axles so I could see their ends to potentially spot anything.

It's a subframe, cause it's below the frame. This is also called a k-member. Ooo. Ahhh.




Tranny's off, bell housing and input shaft look OK.




Pressure plate looks fine, no broken teeth.



Both sides of the clutch disc look good. No defects, buttons are fine, it's not contaminated. Plenty of life left in it.




Pressure plate surface is fine too. A little heat discoloration, but smooth.




FW and pilot bearing are fine. No mars and the bearing spins freely.




Crank end looks good too.




So yeah, I'm about out of ideas after I pull the pan and look at it. Noise is the same as ever and didn't start until the car was completely warmed up, sitting at idle. I didn't even drive it. Just let it idle and the squeak came back. Grr.

[DaGriz]

"So yeah, I'm about out of ideas after I pull the pan and look at it. Noise is the same as ever and didn't start until the car was completely warmed up, sitting at idle"

Okay, by using process of elimination and some logical deduction I would suspect that it could be : 1.) Half spun rod bearing or 2.) half spun main bearing or 3.) oil pump. As you said, it starts AFTER engine is warm, which means the oil is thinned out somewhat from being warm When you first start it crankcase oil is thicker do to being cold. That alone points toward the oil pump. If the noise does not get any higher in pitch or tone when you increase the RPM's; it is probably not a rod or main bearing

BUT....these are just the thoughts of an old man without hearing the noise first hand!!

[andyman97]

I doubt its a bearing, he'd be hearing knock, if anything. Probably a bearing in your water pump.....

[tfnaaf]

Originally Posted by andyman97

I doubt its a bearing, he'd be hearing knock, if anything. Probably a bearing in your water pump.....

thats sounds very likely

[FoSho]

Well water pump, tensioner pulley, oil pump....etc.....are all very well your issue. But I thought you said you isolated it to the opposite side of your engine? I have seen cars transfer noise in strange ways but that noise sounds pretty loud....I would think it would be hard to miss. I believe Clint even took all the belts off, isolating any issues.....

Clint, by the time your done with your car you should come work for me...you're gonna be a master tech! Good diagnosin man! Shame on the transmission. Glade someone else is having just as much fun as I am! ahah!

One note? Did you try turning the diff/final drive(axle input area?) anything abnormal?

P.S. > I have seen a shit load of water pumps fail on cars....they usually growl...never heard one squeal especially like that. I have never ever ever ever seen an oil pump fail let alone make noise on toyotas or hondas! Oil pumps are made at a very high stress level! Just my 2 cents!

[speedfoos]

There's the kicker folks, water pump and oil pump are on the driver's side and aren't transferring niose from that side to the other - according to my Craftsman stethoscope (screwdriver on my ear). It is definitely coming from the tranny side of the engine and like I said, gets louder when the slave cylinder dust boot and starter are out. Yes accessory belts and starter have been completely removed and the car driven. Still noisy.

Tranny makes normal tranny noises when I turned the input shaft and also stuck the axles in and turned them.

The going theory that seems to make sense given the symptoms and everything I have cheacked is that the hot spots on the FW and pressure plate are causing the noise. Since a hot spot changes the structural composition of the metal, which can cause a squeal and this doesn't happen until things are good and warmed up. It's a rotational squeak that goes away in higher RPMs (bearing noise would get worse, right?) and spins with a rhythm that coincides with engine revolutions.

Either that or a partially spun bearing, although I should hear a knock with that like Andy said. Plus the oil temps weren't above 130 F when the squeal came back. If it was something that required oil to lubricate it's rotation, you would think the oil would have to be hotter (and thinner) before the noise came back.

I don't know. I appreciate everyone brainstorming for ideas though. It gives me things to check. As soon as my box from Summit gets here(exhaust gaskets and 90-degree -AN fittings) I'll pull the exhaust (to weld a new coupler on) and drop the pan to look at the gut.

If I don't see anything then, I'll just keep driving the piss out of the car and if whatever is making the noise breaks, then I'll know what it is!

[FoSho]

No way it's lower engine....no way.......one way to rule it out. Drop that pan....you'll see the hot spots if there is any issues.....it will be apparently darker than any other areas...almost stained dark if you will.

[andyman97]

Have your flywheel and pressure plate resurfaced....