Page 210 = The New Project!! -The Speedfoos' 383 Stroker thread!!

[02fpcivic]

Foos if I'da known you needed a clutch tool I probably had a spare kicking around that I coulda sent with the manifold.

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[speedfoos]

Thanks, I didn't know I needed it until a little while ago. Oh well, I can improvise.

I hear you guys about the ISB, but the noise would change it's tone/frequency/pitch etc.. when you're futzing with the clutch and the tranny. None of that business affects it. I'll check the clutch pedal play and see what's after I check the starter. I'll check the starter bolts for play first, if they're tight, it's coming off and then I'll warm up the car to see if the squeal comes back.

If it does then the tranny and pressure plate are coming out so i can have a look at the flywheel and both bearings to see if they are behaving.

Yeah I figured I was seriously degrading the life of the tranny, I just need the sumbitch to last until I get back to the states so I can go junkyard hoppin' to get new ones.

[speedfoos]

Fucking POS Harbor Freight impact wrench.

Well it's officially not the starter. And I officially can't get the spindle nuts off with my aforementioned impact. So that means the axles don't come out and therefore neither does the tranny today. Looks like I'm going to do this in 7 hours or less at the hobby shop this week. Yay.

Gonna go put a drop on my buddy's CRV now. I hate cars.

[CivicHatch9one]

lol ive learned the hard way:harbor freight. has cool cheap tools, and they are cheap for a reason.

that sucks clint. good luck yet again.

i know what you mean. nothing ever goes right.. sometimes i just wanna give up on cars but i love em too much.

[dopes6070]

you actually dont have to remove the axles from the knuckles. Just loosen the lower ball joints and drop the subframe with the LCAs. Then use some really big zip ties to hold the axles up out of the way when you pull them outa the trans. Thats the way I usually do it just so I dont have to fight with the axle nuts. This only works on the manual trans cars tho. You need the extra room when dealing with the AT.

And the easiest way I've found to get the axle nuts off is putting the wheel on without the center cap and setting the car on the ground. Then go to town with a nice big breaker bar and a 32mm socket.

Hope this helps.

[speedfoos]

Ahhhhh, that's a really good fuckin' Bob. I wish I had thought of that this morning. Although, my heart really wasn't in it today, to be honest.

We were able to put the drop on my buddy's CRV. KYB shocks dropped on Eibachs, 1.8 in the front, 1.5 in the rear, with new Moog ball joints and Ingall's front and rear camber kits. Went pretty smooth and we didn't break anything, I was really surprised. With the Progress endlinks and sway bars, it actually handles really nice now for late 90s big green lunch box. I also bribed the guy at the hobbyshop with the promise of breakfast if he opens it at 0800 on Wednesday to let me stay for the whole day to do this properly on a lift.

Yeah, I do get tired of wrenching on the Civic sometimes. But I played a little on the way. I haven't ever really dumped the clutch on the car since putting the turbo on. I did tonight and was really neat to just spin 1st through 2nd with barely any forward motion, a little side-to-side tracking without the e-brake on! Good times.

[k20em2504]

looking good foos

all you need now is kpro and a driver mod lol

[k20em2504]

once you get kpro and tune it youll be able to make 300+ horses

[speedfoos]

Well there's that minor detail of a built bottom end too! I want to hit 400 on pump gas just once on the dyno. It's ludicrous to be daily driven at that power level, but that's a notch in my belt that I'm looking to get.

[k20em2504]

what do you call built? sleeves? or just pistons and rod?

[speedfoos]

Yeah, rods and pistons. No need to sleeve this block especially since I'm keeping the stock bore. The stock sleeves are stout enough to handle. I may run a block guard, but that's about it.

[tfnaaf]

another way to break the axle nuts lose is to stick a screw driver in the vents of the rotor and rotate the screw driver against the brake caliper to keep it from turning and use a breaker bar. This is how i usually torq the axle nuts but it will work the same to remove them

[ronaldo9]

LOL I reckon he could make 300whp after he installs the pistons and ups the boost but might need bigger injectors depending on what his duty cycle was. That GT30 is a monster. I feel like the more power he makes the more shit is going to keep breaking. Stay at 8 pounds and call it day lol.

[speedfoos]

Now where is the fun in staying at 8 pounds Ron? Think of it this way, shit should only break once and then it gets replaced with something better. I'll win this war of attrition with my car!

Considering that it's only 40 more hp to hit 300 (probably what, 3-4 psi?) that should be no problem. I'm not sure what my injector duty cycle is at on these 577cc jobbers. I won't know until I go k-pro so I'll wait until then to determine my next injector upgrade. Deatsch makes drop-in 750cc high-impedance injectors so those will probably fit the bill.

I had a pry bar wedged in there Tom, but didn't really want to get on it too much for fear of that sucker flying out. I'll have an extra set of hands to help me on Wednesday and some proper kit to do it right.

[k20em2504]

i still say kpro and a good tune will get you 300 on 8 psi

260 is low considering you have a turbo cam and the head is pnp

you need to scrap the pcs xfc and get kpro