[speedfoos]

^^^ Absolutely Dopes.

Cyls 2 and 3 were the ones with low compression, but those pics were after sopping up oil and coolant and scrubbing the old gasket off. And plus there are at the bottom of the stroke whereas 1 and 4 are up top.

And no, the work never really does end!

[skipbarber]

your oil pan is on the way clint.

anyways, i really hope youre straight edging that block before you drop the head back on. you can spray as much copper shit on the gasket as you want, but if the deck and the head arent flat, it aint gonna seal. I wouldnt use the copper shit on a metal gasket IMO. it's already got that coating on it from the factory. what are you torqueing the studs to? and are you using moly lube to get the preload right? last time i did my oil change, i spotted some nasty watery oil mix on the cap, but the oil came out looking ok, and the coolant level has been the same since the motor went in, but the stuff in the catch can looked like watered down gravy. i need to re-think my breather setup because i think thats where the moisture might be coming in from.

grammar > me

[speedfoos]

LOL - send me you damn PayPal addy and the shipping cost already man!

OK, I straight edged the tops of the bores last night and everything was good. I'll do the block today and see what happens. The head I'm putting on there is flat - or so the machine shop told me, I'll have to believe them.

Studs are torqued to 60 ft./lbs as per ARP's recommendation. I did use the moly lube they came with when I installed them. I shouldn't have to re-seat them should I? None of them came out during when I loosened the nuts.

You're probably right about the moisture being breather-related. I'll be completely re-doing my setup with some check-valves and plumbing it into both the IM and the exhaust to get all that shit out of the engine.

[greeen01civic4d]

dude clint, ur fuckin crazy, i hope all goes well, good news about ur cylinders too, im curious to see how this all turns out, its looking pretty crazy, i hope when ur all done u turn the boost way up and go at it(with a video camera on board of course), u are torquing the head studs right... im sure u are, just make sure u r doing it in the correct order, what is the correct torque anyway?

[DaRk_MauL]

Hey clint if the head still off could you take a pic from the cyl wall?
because i am still wonder about those lines i got at the top I think its from
the piston rings but could ya check? thx in advance.

[speedfoos]

Yeah, the head's still off, let me go outside and snap a pic real quick.

Adam, the correct torque on head bolts is like 48 ft./lbs IIRC and on the the ARP studs it's either 60 or 65, I'll check before I spin them back on. In regards to turning up the boost, I should be able to make more power at less pressure, so - if things go well - 6 psi with the new head will feel like 9 psi on the old head.

Everything is just about ready to go back on the car. I still need to do the valve lash, but I finished prepping everything else. Let me go get those pics Ching.

[speedfoos]

Fucking brrr! It's cold out!

Oh and one other thing...

3000th POST FTMFW BITCHES!!!

All right Ching, here you go.






I also opened up the ports on the manifold a little bit today to accommodate the hogged out exhaust ports on the new head a little better. Did the rough work with my drill and rasp bit and then cleaned it up with a dremel. They start at about 37mm and taper down. The exhaust ports on the head are 40mm, but I don't want to attack the mani too much in case this head is shit and I have to PnP the one I just took off.






And then I attacked the cool side of the turbo with my wire brush. A clean, shiny turbo is a a happy turbo. I did a bunch of other stuff today too, but nothing worth taking pics of.

[greeen01civic4d]

awesome, when do u think ur gonna be done reinstalling? i really want to hear that baby roar, i think ur really gonna like the pnp head, as long as it was done correctly and well, otherwise it might suck, im also wondering if ur gonna have to re-tune to get your idle back because of the different cam and bigger ports...

[speedfoos]

I should be able to have it running tomorrow. As soon as I find my Hayne's manual for the valve lash specs and torque settings for the rocker arm assembly, I'll do the lash. I think it's in the car.

Yeah, I'm going to have to re-tune. I'll get it close by myself, and for the rest of it, well that's what I paid Chris for. One year's worth of tunes - good until Sep 08.

[booba5185]

hey is the valve clearence the same on a pnp head? or do you have to change it at all (from the norm .009 and .007)

[DaRk_MauL]

hey clint thx for pics by the way it looks you got the same wear and probably more miles to so its normal.

Good job on enlarging the mani ports.but yeah those 40mm port are real big
on the head dude.
Nice love polishing job the turbo deserve that right.

peace

[speedfoos]

Originally Posted by booba5185

hey is the valve clearence the same on a pnp head? or do you have to change it at all (from the norm .009 and .007)

I would assume it's the same since you're only adjusting the space between the rocker arm and the top of the valve when the valves are closed. The PnP only affects things when the valves are open and working. I'll find out for sure when I crank it over tomorrow.

I've got about 39K (miles) on this block Ching. Those two cylinders are also the ones that showed the major compression loss too.

Valve adjustment is done!

[tuningmycivic]

i take it then you found your Haynes manual?

[speedfoos]

LOL - yeah, but the valve lash specs weren't in there. Even in the section of the book where it outlines the procedures it says, "refer to the beginning of this chapter for the valve specifications". But they weren't there. Search button and Gray's Valve Lash Adjustment DIY FTW!!

So how do like the turbo now Tony?

[tuningmycivic]

how's that for an answer?