Page 200 = New Video! - Page 200 - The Speedfoos' Turbo Thread!!
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i've learned so much about turboing a car just from this thread. hopefully you figure this out pretty soon. and hey, at least you can rest assured that you took your time, did it right, and you'll have a reliable turbo setup!
Wow foos your much braver than I am I don't think I would be able to pull all those wires out of my car like that.
Just a thought and excuse me for being a little unschooled when it comes to wiring but would the fact that your alternator not turning while the car was running have anything to do with no RPM reading?
LOL - the interior looks worse than it actually is! I left it like that on purpose for dramatic effect.
Yeah, I'm learning an awful lot as well. Not having a Helm's manual is kicking my ass though. Using a Hayne's manual and what I've cobbled together from Google and this forum for the wiring diagrams is not an optimal solution.
Alternator is turning now with my nice makeshift sock belt. It's not running full speed but it is running. But yeah MURDOCK, I thought the same thing which is why I made the "belt" and asked both Chris and Paul if that would affect it. But it doesn't.
Here's the problem I'm running into. I get a tach signal for like 2 seconds, the ECU clicks like a relay and the tach signal drops out. Now this happens when I'm running the PCS and when I'm running just the stock ECU. So. I need to find the signal wire for RPM-in to the ECU. Pin 26 on the "E" connector is simply RPM-out to the tach and the extra wire up front. I still think its a short somewhere either on the way in or on the way out.
What I'm going to do is disconnect all the wiring that I've done to the car except for the obvious one - the fuel pump. And I'll start from there.
As always, more ideas are helpful. I've been on the phone with Paul (dezod), Chris (BNT) and the PCS folks to try and figure this out. We're all stumped at this point, but everything helps.
Good God, I'm fucking starving but it's back to work! Gotta maintain my girlish figure...
Can someone give me a continuity check on their tach signal wire and tell me what your reading is please!! Mine is right around 320, and I don't think that's right. Thanks!!!
i no of two places that you can check.. or tap the tach wire.. i dunno if it will help.. but its worth posting in that case anyways... on the ecu.. i no where the wire is... there's a diy for a vafc that explains it.. that.. and there is a rpm tach wire sensor under the hood.. that can be found in the diy on installing a security system.. if i were home.. i'd give you a check... but im unable to... ill hunt down the threads quick tho for anyone else... and if u need it still tomorrow... ill b happy to help...
Yeah, that's the RPM out wire from the ECU that goes to the tach and the test wire underneath the hood. I've found those. What I'm looking for is someone to run a continuity test of the one in the engine bay, I get --------------------------
Got Tach SIGNAL AGAIN!!! MOVED THE FUSE BOX HNDERNEATH THE DASH AND TACH SINGLA IS THERE, BUT NOW WHEN i DISCONNECT THE MAP STOCK MAP SENSOR IT DIES. BUT IT RUNS BETTER!!!
OK, that post made no sense, but I'm getting there!!
Gonna run a datalog now as it does not want to stay running without the stock map sensor plugged in. But my code scanner is fried so I don't know what codes it's throwing......
OK, the video is uploading to YouTube right now. Idle basemap is enroute to Chris as there still some issues to be resolved. It won't idle without the stock MAP sensor plugged in (the wire clip). From what I understand, this shouldn't be.
Looks like my coolant feed lines for the snail are routed incorrectly and things aren't cycling through like they should so it's getting hot. Easy fix.
Source of the tach problem. Primary gauge power wire was wired off the wrong Acc. wire under the fuse box. I am going to pick up a relay tomorrow and wire it properly!
BUT!!! It idles, without throwing a CEL, at 14.5 and doesn't lean out at higher RPMS!!!!!
