Rock-a-bye Sugar - Page 193 - The Speedfoos' Turbo Thread!!
Honda Civic Member's RidesHonda Civic Member's Rides - Want to show off your Honda Civic mods? Need help deciding what Civic part, mod, or even what version Honda Civic to buy? Anything and everything about your very own Honda Civic member's ride goes here.
Looking Clint!!! Man, I'm getting so frustrated that I don't have the funds right now to start my build. Not to mention I have my bike that I'm also modding... Man decisions, decisions, decisions!!!!
clint, when you say you were tapping in your piston, did you literally mean you were slowly tapping it in with the ring compressor around it? you're supposed to compress the rings right above the skirt, drop it into the cylinder as low as it'll go, then with a hammer handle give 1 good solid blow to drop it in. It should never take more than 1 hit to get it completely into the cylinder. To help with this you want to fill a coffee can or container with oil and drop the whole piston into it, ring side first. compress it and pop it in.
moving on, since we're talking about clutches, unsprung clutches will be better for someone who plans on driving hard. a sprung clutch will loose the spring tension in a few burn outs, rendering them useless. So save yourself the potential noise. If you don't drive like a nut, then you'll enjoy the smoother engagement that the springs help provide. I personally think my stage 1 exedy with the exedy light fly is one of the best setups for a mildly built D17.
PLEASE don't mix a used bearing with an old bearing clint. do what you have to do to find a new bearing half. New bearings have a 'crush' area (you can tell because a new bearing will never sit quite flush with the seat, it always sticks out a little versus a used bearing that does sit flush in its seat) that help position the bearing into the bore. When you have 1 used one and 1 new one, the bearings will never properly seat into the bore making it a potential oil pressure problem waiting to happen down the line.
also, if you got honda rings, they come pregapped but that doesnt mean you shouldnt check the gap for each ring. also be sure to use an old ring, broken in half use on the square side, to clean out the ring lands of any carbon build up or deposits. remember that the compression rings are directional and the engraving must face UP! oil rings dont matter.
I dont know what else im missing, but it'll come to me.
Last edited by skipbarber : 07-03-2008 at 10:32 PM.
I've got a whole set of ACL bearings on the way (should be here already) and I should be able to fish a new one out of that set to go with my Honda bearings, since the Green one is still out of stock. Now that I'm delayed a bit due to the machine work, I'll be able to find the right size from that set.
Good enough on the can of oil for the piston install.
I ordered Wiseco rings (to match the pistons) so I will assume they come pre-gapped as well. Once they arrive, I'll give Wiseco a call and ask them.
What's the easiest way to get the wrist pins out of the pistons? A brass drift? It's because I have to ask questions like this that I don't feel completely comfortable installing the rotating assembly myself.
Wiseco rings don't come pregapped. You need to gap them yourself, and to the power level you're aiming for. The gap will be relative to your power level. Like Edwin said, make sure the two top compression rings face up and are aligned in the correct sequence within the bore. Are you trying to get the stock wrist pins out or the wiseco's?
honda says you should heat up the piston assembly and tap out the pin. I had luck just tapping it out at room temp with a punch. wrap it cloth and put it in a vice and tap it gently. Andy also brought up a good point. the new rings will not come gapped if they are aftermarket and will sometimes come with suggested ring gaps for your application. Not only do the rings need to face up, but they all need to be clocked correctly too. kinda over whelming isn't it? considering the fact that taking a motor apart is pretty much a no brainer.
More and more I'm leaning towards being a checkbook mechanic on this part of the build! I will be trying to get the Wiseco wrist pins out of the pistons because I don't care about the stockers. Maybe. I may just hand my engine block and box of parts to the shop and ask them to be gentle...
Last edited by speedfoos : 07-04-2008 at 12:03 PM.
More and more I'm leaning towards being a checkbook mechanic on this part of the build! I will be trying to get the Wiseco wrist pins out of the pistons because I don't care about the stockers. Maybe. I may just hand my engine block and box of parts to the shop and ask them to be gentle...
You know, I had the same thoughts. The last complete engine rebuild I did was a 73 Chevy Vega (a long time ago). Recently though, I rebuilt a 5 HP Evinrude outboard and a Briggs 5HP pressure washer engine. Since I had a lot of money already invested in my D18 engine I didn't want to chance building it myself even though the Vega, Evinrude, and Briggs engines ran fine. My builder charged my $400 for the assembly. But don't let my lack of balls discourage you.
Don't worry Carl, I won't. That's good to know the price your builder charged you though. I think I will have a hard time stomaching £400 though. Hopefully it won't be that much!
We're off to Ireland until Saturday, talk to you folks in a week!
but that doesnt mean you shouldnt check the gap for each ring. also be sure to use an old ring, broken in half use on the square side, to clean out the ring lands of any carbon build up or deposits. remember that the compression rings are directional and the engraving must face UP! oil rings dont matter. 
