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Stage 2 of the project is complete. Dehydration is setting in!
EDIT: SCROLL DOWN FOR UPDATES
So I finally got the cams in and had the head work performed, after having sat on a butt load of performance parts for the past few months. Part 2 of a 4 part process is now complete.
Part 1 consisted of me swapping out my old B16A2 block, and adding a gaggle of bolt-ons. At its completion my car had a hybrid B18C5/B16A2 motor (B18C5 block + a slightly modified B16A2 head, including a valve job and upgrading the valve train), I/H/E, and a modified P28 ECU which was converted to uberdata (a free version of Hondata).
Compression was sitting at around 10.8:1, and while still running stock B16A2 cams, intake manifold, and throttle body, my car produced 170WHP and 130 wheel torque on the dyno... and that dyno is notorious for reading LOW.
In BHP terms, I was putting out about 5hp and a few ft lbs of tq more then a stock 2001 Acura Integra Type R. This was later confirmed when I raced a 2000 ITR with I/H/E. I pulled a nose on him and held it there, with no gain or less to and past 130MPH. Twice.
Bit I digress...
I have just now completed step 2. That being the addition of some Skunk 2 Stage 2 cams, a 2 layer Spoon head gasket, a hondata intake manifold gasket, skunk 2 cam gears, and milling the head a bit, in order to increase compression into the range of ~11.7:1
Oh, and a butload of ECU tuning.
After that was all said and done we found out that my car was detonating all sorts. We had to retard the timing quite a bit in order to get it running correctly. Upon further analysis we found that my injectors were running at full duty cycle (100%) at 75% throttle!
This is not good.
Now I do have a 190lph in tank fuel pump, but that alone is no where near enough. The injectors are the bottle neck. So I now have a FPR/gauge and RC Engineering 370 high pressure saturated injectors on order. After installing those and bumping up the fuel pressure with the FPR... AND getting it all tuned out again, the car should be running like a champ.
We have set the rev limiter to 9200RPM (below the maximum power potential of these cams believe it or not) and plan on making at least 200hp at the wheels.
After this I will be adding a better intake manifold, and a larger throttle body, seeing as how those are the final bottle necks. I will also be having this all tuned with a wideband and on a dyno by Church Engineering up in Long Beach, Ca (a local legend in hondata/Uberdata/Crome tuning).
Of course I will be doing another final 2 dyno runs on August 20, next month at the same place I pulled my 170WHP run in order to get the most accurate measurement in improvement over last time. Any and all are welcome to come. The link to the details is in my signature. That’s going to be held here in San Diego. 50 bucks for 2 wideband pulls. Not bad at all.
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you live in cali dont you? It was 97 degrees near the beach and 110 in the valley today ....
I wanted to die...
anyways looking good! I love old school Si's!!!
thats awesome... from me i wanted to get one but the cheapest one i could find was still 6 grand so i said screw it and im gonna buy a GS-R integ
__________________ 2006 RSX-S NHBP
2004 Civic LX coupe SSM sold... ....i miss it...
1984 AE86 sold
1987 AE82 corolla fx-16 (redtop swapped) no longer have
1993 K20A2 swapped EG sedan no longer have
1995 Eclipse (sold)
1986 AE86 Corolla (sold)
i was about to ask u where u got custom mounts, then u made me sad showin me its the EM1
__________________ http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...skivic3541.jpg
Soon to be for sale:
17x7.5 Racing Hart C2's with Yokohamo Prodigy's
Apex'i N1 Catback Exhaust
7th Gen Buddy Club Front n Rear Bumper with R33 Sides
Eibach Pro Kit Lowering Springs
17x7 G-Racing Kugi Rims
i would have just used hasport mounts if i needed some, but I didnt like you said. The car came with a B series engine from the factory. It was a direct swap in with the ITR block.
Oh god, dont make me add that up! I bought the block, brand new for 2222.22, 500 for the cams & gears, 300 for the header, 350 for the exhaust, 140 for the intake, 120 for the ECU.... and thats just some of it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by sw388integra
old skool?...
what kinda header and cams are you running? your going to need some pretty decent ones to get into the 200hp range..
Click on my profile to see a complete list of mods.
Cliffs Notes: JDM ITR header. More then enough flow for 200WHP. & Skunk 2 Stage 2 cams. Again, more then enough to produce 200WHP given proper compression ann tuning of course (cough 11.7:1cough).
Quote:
Originally Posted by 04|5spdCivic
nice car man. wanna trade? lol i can see that you or somebody put in a whole lot of hard work even though i have no clue what you did. lol
got any numbers yet?...my buddy has "somewhat" of the same build and he only put down 185hp! which is real good numbers...he's switching to a ricks racing header, the type R isn't going to put him over the top!
__________________ AP1 Ass Hauler!
"yeah no ones a real man until they hit vtec in reverse" -yarou
huh. curious, why did you buy a brand new block when you could've gotten one for less than half of that... while also getting some new rods/pistons ... (I'm assuming you DIY) ... with that being said:
Well I added the RC370 injectors then got the whole deal dyno tuned. The car builds power all the way to fuel cut in one continuous surge of power. Odd thing is that with these cams there is no "VTEC spike", like with the stock cams. This is partly because of the cam and partly because of the tune. Incase you are wondering, yes this is a good thing.
BTW... that dip you see is before we fine tuned the tune so to speak. the other line is the final state of tune. VTEC was comming on too late creating a large dip in power for 1500RPM before it shot back up. That was bad.
Unfourtionatly the torque pickup melted on the turbo manifold of the car on the dyno right before me. so i didnt get a tq read.
Quote:
Originally Posted by aznboysrfr
huh. curious, why did you buy a brand new block when you could've gotten one for less than half of that... while also getting some new rods/pistons ... (I'm assuming you DIY) ... with that being said:
ebp em1's are my fav. civics ever
nice whale penis.
Part of it was insurance money. Plus I wanted something that was 100%. Not some mystery block that I have to rebuild. When you go that way you have to deal with a lot more potential problems which cand and will add up in cost.
Quote:
Originally Posted by sw388integra
got any numbers yet?...my buddy has "somewhat" of the same build and he only put down 185hp! which is real good numbers...he's switching to a ricks racing header, the type R isn't going to put him over the top!
184 on a dyno thats notorious for reading low. Given the average difference between this and other dynojets I should be right at 190WHP.
Of course my main bottle nec k now is the stock B16 intake manifold and throttle body. Those need to get upgraded ASAP. CHanging those out will be more then enough to get me up to 200WHP.
After that Ill have some major porting done to the head. That wil be good for another 15-20WHP. And I would be pretty happy with a 215-220WHP NA 1.8l motor that makes power up to 9200RPM.
After that? Ill probably either sell the car and get something RWD or up the compression with a larger HG and add a turbo. Ill shoot for ~300WHP.
The JDM header isnt gonna do ti that well. Try going ANR or Hytech for the 200whp mark. Its hard on the b series, I have your motor with similar mods and it takes a bit over that header to do the 200whp and some damn good tuning.
The JDM header isnt gonna do ti that well. Try going ANR or Hytech for the 200whp mark. Its hard on the b series, I have your motor with similar mods and it takes a bit over that header to do the 200whp and some damn good tuning.
Eddie
Rocket Motorsports cams rock!
Not really. The RMF heder is better then the Hytech and I have dyno proof that the RMF doesnt makemore then 2 WHP more through out the curve VS a DC sports header. Lol 300 VS 1000 dollars and not even a 5WHP gain.
To unlock more power in my set up I need to change out the B16 intake manifold and throttle body. these are very restrictive. They were designed for a smaller engine that doesnt rev as high and isnt using nearlt as much fuel/air (via cams, tuning and so on). As you can see my power tapers off after 8200RPM which is where the B16 manifold maxes out. Changint that to a JG/Eddlerock manifold will not only ltme make power past 9K RPM (Ill finally be able to move the fuel cut to 9200RPM) but it will allow more power to be free'd up. COmbine that with a68-70mm port matched throttle body, and retune on the dyno tocompensate for the mods and 200WHP is right there. !0WHP is more then obtainable with those changes.
After thhat a good PnP to the head, some betterflowing and lighter valves and Imlooking at 215-220WHP EASY.
After thatIll need to move on to boost. A comeic 3 later head gasket to lower compression to ~ 11:1, a free spooling T3/T4 ceramic BB turbo, 10PSI and ill be looking at ~300WHP and 270ft lbs of torque.
After that ill probably want a different car. 300WHP is about as much as you would want in a FWD daily driver vehicle.
Stage 2 of the project is complete. Dehydration is setting in! 
from me i wanted to get one but the cheapest one i could find was still 6 grand so i said screw it and im gonna buy a GS-R integ 
....i miss it...
Wish I had a Turbo 
