Do It Yourself Spring Install - Detailed Info & Pics
08-30-2005
#121
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Originally Posted by brandengump
just used it.. sort of forgot to not warp my threads on my tie rod... in conclusion.. i have a temporary ghetto rig.. other than that EXCELLENT DIY without this i probably wouldnt have done it.. but it was really simple.. 05 coupe dropped 2 inches, looks AMAZING easy job!
thanks man!
thanks man!
ya..those tie bars suck...hate those things....took me forever to get those out.
08-30-2005
#122
How many pots have you smoken?
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i had my tie rods ghetto rigged too...then one night the tie rod came apart from strut and i lost steering! haha good thing it was really late at night and there was no traffic cuz i was stuck in the middle of the intersection!
i had to replace them both
i had to replace them both
10-25-2005
#123
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Rep Power: 0 hey mex, first off, excellent DIY, i just bought lowing spring and was planning on spending $300 to install, now im gonna do it with a friend for a case of beer.
second, i was told i do not need rear camber for a 1.75" drop, true??
third, anyway u can explain how tro install camber kits??
email = nmci@rogers.com
second, i was told i do not need rear camber for a 1.75" drop, true??
third, anyway u can explain how tro install camber kits??
email = nmci@rogers.com
10-26-2005
#124
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Rep Power: 269 civ_nate, I'd recommend you start searching under suspension performance..
There are plenty of threads already on springs, shocks & camber kits...
Start here:
http://www.7thgencivic.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=200089
There are plenty of threads already on springs, shocks & camber kits...
Start here:
http://www.7thgencivic.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=200089
11-29-2005
#126
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hahah...well first off im new to the board although i did sign up a while back..anywho had i seen this it probably would have made installing my springs in soooo much easier...anywho my question: Has anybody had any issues after installing them? We installed everything correctly, atleast we think, everything is nice and tight and all set in place, but everytime I'm turning slowly (like to pull into a parking space) there is a noise that seems to coming from the springs. We double checked everything and still it keeps making it. any ideas?
01-23-2006
#128
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Originally Posted by rEkKaShInObI
i think its missing 1 piece of info, and thats the torque specs.
Torque specs would be nice. Otherwise extremely nice write up. I am not mecahnicall inclined but I could follow it step for step with no problems. I would like to note that in using the tie rod seperator I did get a small tear in the boot. You may wish to omit the use of the tool and stick with hammering the spindle and using a piece of wood to tap the shaft up and out.
03-02-2006
#130
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Rep Power: 311 can someone show me where these "bump stops" are? im curious. i want to do this right next week. and will i need more than myself? like 2 people at least right?
03-26-2006
#132
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Originally Posted by Bdubb
Hey mex is there a way to repost those pics im gonna try it myself this week.
03-26-2006
#134
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Originally Posted by MajinB
can someone show me where these "bump stops" are? im curious. i want to do this right next week. and will i need more than myself? like 2 people at least right?
04-17-2006
#137
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Rep Power: 0 Yea my Teins came with recomendations for cut length on your bump stops. It just said to take a half inch off of the back ones. My guess is, since it adds a little more room for the strut to travel, the back end doesn't bounce around as much... not sure, however, the overall ride is not bad. Those bastards at the suspension place still didn't get my front end aligned right though. Pieces of sheeet.
04-18-2006
#138
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Rep Power: 0 The reason you cut the bump stops is to increase suspension travel, if they are too long then you lose useful travel in your suspension, causing unpredicatable "hoppy" handling when you bottom out.
07-19-2006
#139
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Rep Power: 0 if im replacing my struts but not my springs, can i also follow these directions? what will be different when putting the old springs on my new struts? lining the strut? etc?
08-02-2006
#141
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Rep Power: 0 I need help, I took the two bolts out from the bottom of the strut and was careful not to let the rotor fall too quickly. but it has gotten loose from the cv joint and now I cannot get the rotor back in place. When I try to push the rotor back in I can hear metal hitting metal at the cv joint. Can anyone help me get the rotor back into place?
08-16-2006
#145
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Rep Power: 0 great diy, helped out tremendously, took me 8 hours(long story) by myself. Long story short, the bottom strut bolt on the drivers side seized up, had to take it to a shop to get it out. Took 2 hours with a 3/4" impact to get it out, but got it done!! DIY was awesome, cant thank you enough
08-23-2006
#147
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Rep Power: 0 Great DIY, just done it myself few days ago but had a few problems.
Mex, I really think you should mention the process of lining up the holes for the rear struts as it was a pain in the butt. My suggestion is to use a car jack and raise the strut up where the spring holds in place so that you can easiy slid the bolt holes to line up. Took me hours to figure a solution to that. Another suggestion for those who mess up some bottom threads of the tie rod end when hammering is to file it down with a metal filer til its gone but not past the pin hole, after that grab a wrench that can hold the top of the tie rod nut tight so that you can turn the nut on the bolt and fix the bolt threads a bit, remember to do this while the tie rod is not in the strut. Hope that helps anyone that had any problems like I did.
Mex, I really think you should mention the process of lining up the holes for the rear struts as it was a pain in the butt. My suggestion is to use a car jack and raise the strut up where the spring holds in place so that you can easiy slid the bolt holes to line up. Took me hours to figure a solution to that. Another suggestion for those who mess up some bottom threads of the tie rod end when hammering is to file it down with a metal filer til its gone but not past the pin hole, after that grab a wrench that can hold the top of the tie rod nut tight so that you can turn the nut on the bolt and fix the bolt threads a bit, remember to do this while the tie rod is not in the strut. Hope that helps anyone that had any problems like I did.
08-23-2006
#149
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My spring install on the sedan went very smooth...
BUT
You really dont need the 'secret compartment' on the sedan... its pretty easy to get the 2 rear nuts off holding the strut in place, just by reaching through the trunk.
The goldlines look awsome on a sedan btw
Thank you!
My spring install on the sedan went very smooth...
BUT
You really dont need the 'secret compartment' on the sedan... its pretty easy to get the 2 rear nuts off holding the strut in place, just by reaching through the trunk.
The goldlines look awsome on a sedan btw
Thank you!
