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Ummm...I would NEVER use a pickle-fork to release the tierod end. That will tear the boot and require you to pick up a NEW tierod end from honda for ~$45. You CANNOT just replace the boot.
NEVER hammer the tierod end from the bottom. You are just asking for trouble.
The proper way to break the tierod end free is this.
Use a hammer to hit the OUTSIDE of the strut where the tierod goes through hit. Hit it HARD a few times and it will pop free on its own. No replacing the end and no screwed up threads. This is how the HONDA mechanics do it.
Also, Once the top perch is bolted into place, you must be able to get the bottom 2 bolts through w/o having to spin the strut. If you have to turn the strut it throws off the alignment of the top perch and you will get the popping noises when you turn at slow speeds.
Use a hammer to hit the OUTSIDE of the strut where the tierod goes through hit. Hit it HARD a few times and it will pop free on its own.
I will try this method tomorrow and update the DIY accordingly. I've never heard of this method before
Quote:
Also, Once the top perch is bolted into place, you must be able to get the bottom 2 bolts through w/o having to spin the strut. If you have to turn the strut it throws off the alignment of the top perch and you will get the popping noises when you turn at slow speeds.
are you sure that's what causes it? I thought as long as the bearing ring is still in the upper perch it doesn't matter if you turn it. regardless, it's still a bad thing to do since it throws off the alignment in general..
Great D.I.Y., but for Skunk2 coil-overs, you need to cut the spring perch on the front stuts. Just a heads up for anyone doing coil-overs. Did mine last weekend. Took a little longer than anticipated. Had to manually saw a part of it, due to the rotating disc not getting around the arm.
Originally posted by Mex I will try this method tomorrow and update the DIY accordingly. I've never heard of this method before
are you sure that's what causes it? I thought as long as the bearing ring is still in the upper perch it doesn't matter if you turn it. regardless, it's still a bad thing to do since it throws off the alignment in general..
Yes, I am pretty certain. I put prokit springs on, then neuspeeds, then back to stock, then had to reinstall stock again.
I always lined everything up but had to move them a little when putting them back in. When I reinstalled my stock springs I didn't pay much attention and you could hear those springs popping from a mile away....with the stock springs!!
So, I took them off and realigned the top perches. I made sure that they would line up with the bottom 2 bolts perfectly once I secured the top. I have never even heard the slighest peep.
I think the problem stems from the part of the perch that the top of the spring actually butts up to. You know how it is shaped a certain way, kinda lop-side in height and depth. Well, I am thinking that due to its shape, it has to be positioned just right. I don't know how to explain why I think this is but if it didn't matter, I think the perch would be the same all the way around.
Did you ever try my method for releasing the tierod?
Oh, and Mex, I feel terrible about making my comments and not giving you props for the DIY. That has got to be the best, most in depth, most easy to follow DIY that I have ever seen on this site. The pictures are amazing and that little video at the end, sweet! It must have taken quite a bit of time to put that together.
Did I do mine wrong then? I didn't remove so many parts, I hope I didn't mess anything up, 10months now and nothing wrong to me. Makes me wonder though...
Wow! 3-5 wacks should pop it free and you shouldn't have to hit the end from the bottom afterwards. I guess it depends on how hard you can hit though...Also, loosen the nut but don't take it completely off. It will protect the threads if one were to miss the strut..LOL
I hit it about 20 times really hard and it didn't pop up on its own, but I was able to lift it out. If you hit it hard enough, you can probably lift it out in 5 hits.. I don't want anyone to strip their bolt because they didn't hammer the arm on the strut enough. you should only have to tap the tie rod out.. i'll go back and clarify that step now
