Suspension PerformancePost Suspension related modification information and/or questions here.
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Yea my Teins came with recomendations for cut length on your bump stops. It just said to take a half inch off of the back ones. My guess is, since it adds a little more room for the strut to travel, the back end doesn't bounce around as much... not sure, however, the overall ride is not bad. Those bastards at the suspension place still didn't get my front end aligned right though. Pieces of sheeet.
The reason you cut the bump stops is to increase suspension travel, if they are too long then you lose useful travel in your suspension, causing unpredicatable "hoppy" handling when you bottom out.
if im replacing my struts but not my springs, can i also follow these directions? what will be different when putting the old springs on my new struts? lining the strut? etc?
I need help, I took the two bolts out from the bottom of the strut and was careful not to let the rotor fall too quickly. but it has gotten loose from the cv joint and now I cannot get the rotor back in place. When I try to push the rotor back in I can hear metal hitting metal at the cv joint. Can anyone help me get the rotor back into place?
great diy, helped out tremendously, took me 8 hours(long story) by myself. Long story short, the bottom strut bolt on the drivers side seized up, had to take it to a shop to get it out. Took 2 hours with a 3/4" impact to get it out, but got it done!! DIY was awesome, cant thank you enough
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signature courtesy of speedfoos(Thanks Clint)
Great DIY, just done it myself few days ago but had a few problems.
Mex, I really think you should mention the process of lining up the holes for the rear struts as it was a pain in the butt. My suggestion is to use a car jack and raise the strut up where the spring holds in place so that you can easiy slid the bolt holes to line up. Took me hours to figure a solution to that. Another suggestion for those who mess up some bottom threads of the tie rod end when hammering is to file it down with a metal filer til its gone but not past the pin hole, after that grab a wrench that can hold the top of the tie rod nut tight so that you can turn the nut on the bolt and fix the bolt threads a bit, remember to do this while the tie rod is not in the strut. Hope that helps anyone that had any problems like I did.
My spring install on the sedan went very smooth...
BUT
You really dont need the 'secret compartment' on the sedan... its pretty easy to get the 2 rear nuts off holding the strut in place, just by reaching through the trunk.
The goldlines look awsome on a sedan btw
Thank you!
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2003 EBP Civic Sport
ES1.5
