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Autocross: Because Life is more fun on three wheels......
"I know Solo only comes one minute at a time, but what an intense, non-stop, fast-forward car control exercise minute it is. Sure, the velocity is higher in road racing, but inside the car it is slow-motion in comparison. In Solo, the turns come like machine-gun rounds. "
Randy Pobst
Autocross: Because Life is more fun on three wheels......
"I know Solo only comes one minute at a time, but what an intense, non-stop, fast-forward car control exercise minute it is. Sure, the velocity is higher in road racing, but inside the car it is slow-motion in comparison. In Solo, the turns come like machine-gun rounds. "
Randy Pobst
Anyone get as sick of them giving out stats as much as I am...it gets a little ridiculous...."Ausmus is 4 for 10 against Garcia when the guy in section G, seat 5 drinks 5 beers, eats 3 hot dogs and goes to the pisser twice"..$hit.
You can get them Through Hotchkis, and they cost an arm and a leg....($266) BUt may be well worth it if you live in areas were they use Salt and such durring the winter. (I believe thats the reason Boilermaker got a set)
Autocross: Because Life is more fun on three wheels......
"I know Solo only comes one minute at a time, but what an intense, non-stop, fast-forward car control exercise minute it is. Sure, the velocity is higher in road racing, but inside the car it is slow-motion in comparison. In Solo, the turns come like machine-gun rounds. "
Randy Pobst
All done. Not bad for the first time doing it, about 4 hours later I got -2.25 deg in the front (yay for camber plates) and -1.6 in the rear. The hotchkis arms are SOOOOO easy to work with, You just grab em and turn, they don't bind or anything. Then just lock em down and go.
I actually got them from Greg at Hondawerx, and only paid $220 for them.
ooohhh! sh!t that thing turns me on and how much and what's that tool to measure camber called? where to buy? and how much? that tool's sexy! I still do the old fashon gravity camber measurement...
Here's more pics.... the rusty pieces of shit were at one point Ingalls camber arms. Now you can see why I pulled them. They're siezed in place. Thats kinda useless to me, which is why I just antied up the money for Hotchkis ones. That and I've been told that the Hotchkis parts are diesel tough, so I won't be breaking them on the track either.
Also, if you don't know what -2.25 of camber looks like.... its a shit ton.
on the toe plates their basically just a sheet of alum made so they can sit flat against tire.... and then 2 slits so the measure tape can hold and then u can measure exactly..
so basicaly i could cut some aluminum sheets a certain lenght... and cut 2 slits making sure their same spot... and just do ti the good ol way?
^^^^what he said, and also what if my rims doesn't have the lip lip yours? where do i mount them? inside the rim? let us know man... those things are some good stuff...
The plates are actually 1/4" steel so they don't flex when you push on them.
As for the camber gauge, you can buy them as cheap as 39.99, its just a bubble level on a stick. As far as a rim with no lip, you'd have to hold the gauge on the face since there's nothing to grab. Thats why I did the alignment with the orange wheels on, my OZs don't have a square lip edge to grab onto.
Also, for the average Joe, and who lives in a place where i don't have worry about salt and snow, would regular camber arms (kits?) are good enough right??
__________________ Speed Is, Freedom of the Soul.....
Also, for the average Joe, and who lives in a place where i don't have worry about salt and snow, would regular camber arms (kits?) are good enough right??
Rain is just as bad. The problem is they're just made from mild steel, and they come oiled. Once the oil wears off, they rust. They need to be coated with something better that stays on. I'd recommend using some kind of waterproof grease on the threads I guess, so even if the rest of the arm rusts, the threads still move.
Rain is just as bad. The problem is they're just made from mild steel, and they come oiled. Once the oil wears off, they rust. They need to be coated with something better that stays on. I'd recommend using some kind of waterproof grease on the threads I guess, so even if the rest of the arm rusts, the threads still move.