Suspension PerformancePost Suspension related modification information and/or questions here.
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Thank you Zzyzx, robbclark1, Boilermaker1 and Grey.
You guys provided me with a lot of information, information that I could never have extracted otherwise. robbclark1 it was very cool of you to help me out right away. Zzyzx your technical explanation of things cannot be surpassed by any on this forum. Grey great DIY, great pics, clear steps, and really nice endlinks.
I rotated the bar and it cleared everything. I didn’t not put the bar on, because I was short on time and I didn’t want to go through the trouble of removing the bolts that go through the center piece holding the control arms (It was raining and we had to work outside and it was night). So right now I’m on the stock bar but I will install the rear bar after the winter.I rotated the progress bar it cleared everything(a lot of clearance from the control arms) but I didn'r install it.
My short experience with the bar even though it was on upside down, made the tail end was very stiff and tight (a major change from stock). Anyhow I can’t give you many details cause I only had it on for a day really and I was more stressed about screwing up the car. I can say the tail felt like it was floating on the road, much stiffer than now now the tail feel like its sagging.
cubanmike26 the install should be pretty straight forward if you have a rear sway bar and a stock set-up. Just look underneath the rear on the car to see if you have the anti-roll bar. Just put it ON THE RIGHT WAY!!!
I can't wait till I put it on I'll post some pics I just need to get my hands on a digital camera.
My car's already been lowered with teh Sportlines. I looked underneath when it was on jack stands and I have plenty of space so far all around the front & rear sawy bars.
Nindo, why should I be careful about the front bar and why the 02 ex front bar?
Cause your rear is gonna be so stiff and your front I'm guessing has a lot of body roll. You might spin out. Usually on the stock set-up your car never spin's out or oversteers. On your set-up(Stock front and 22mm rear) if you brake to abruptly or push really hard on a turn your tail end could spin around.
When you raise the car on jack stands the control arms lower cause the wheels hang so it looks like you have more room, then you actually have when your car sits on its wheels there is less clerance. I just wonder if the bar will clear the control arms when the car is lowered. The bar is super thick. You'll notice a huge diff. There is no way those those poor little stock endlinks could hold such a rigid bar.
^^^Hmm, but you got Grey's endlinks now so it shouldn't be a problem right?
I'm wondering now, if it might be better to just leave the car with the stock sway bars then? Sounds like too many things are getting in the way, plus some members say the car understeers considerably once the bars are on. I don't know, I'm having second thoughts.
Grey's endlinks are much beefier than stock and there more flexible. I'd reccomend replceing the stock ones if you get a thicker rear bar.
If you put the thick rear your car will understeer less. What I mean to say is you should put a thicker front as well if you change the rear. Your front bar is really thin.
Zzyzx does your rear end make creeking and groaning noise with the Hotchkis bar?
I get a clicking noise when the bar isnt under load, but thats the endlinks not the bar..
cubanmike26, If I understand right, you have the stock 15.9mm bar, and are looking to get a 22mm rear bar. And your concern now is if the car will be too Oversteer prone. Right?
Its a valid concern, as with that setup the car will want to bring the rear end around on you in certin situations. But unless you have a habbit of driving the car at 10/10ths all the time, it shouldn't be a problem.
I say run with it for a while, See if you like it. If the car is too twitchy for you, then start looking for a larger front bar. Such as a sedans 22mm front or the coups 25.4mm front. Just remember that if and when the car starts to rotate on you, the #1 thing you should not do is Hit the brakes or lift off the gas. But rather you should add in more throttle to settle the rear end down. And be a bit more careful in low grip situations (Rain and such). as the cars natrual tendency to oversteer in those situations will be acentuated by the stiffer rear bar.
Autocross: Because Life is more fun on three wheels......
"I know Solo only comes one minute at a time, but what an intense, non-stop, fast-forward car control exercise minute it is. Sure, the velocity is higher in road racing, but inside the car it is slow-motion in comparison. In Solo, the turns come like machine-gun rounds. "
Randy Pobst
Grey says he gets "A creeking noise when on hills or slants. It's cause the sway bar is stressing the chassis. I believe that re-welding that sub-fram piece that the sway bar tie bar bolts on to would solve that problem. The metal is sliding and flexing and the creases betwean the welds rub against each other. Well, the metal does that is. I think that's what's causing the creeking noise".
I wonder how bad it is for those subframe pieces where the endlinks bolt to.
is he sure its not his rear springs creaking in their mounts? I get that when i get out of my car on occation.
with the progress bar, you shouldnt have any problems, with where the bar mounts. and the control arms can handle the endlinks just fine. Remember, Our cars suspension is basically the same as the Civic Si and RSX, so if a CTR or a RSX-R can run a 22mm rear bar with no problems then we can too.
Autocross: Because Life is more fun on three wheels......
"I know Solo only comes one minute at a time, but what an intense, non-stop, fast-forward car control exercise minute it is. Sure, the velocity is higher in road racing, but inside the car it is slow-motion in comparison. In Solo, the turns come like machine-gun rounds. "
Randy Pobst
Well I rotated the bar the other way and it cleared everything unlike when I had it on backwards. The noise I got was from rubbing of the exhaust and the hitting of the control arms because I had it on backwards.
is he sure its not his rear springs creaking in their mounts? I get that when i get out of my car on occation.
with the progress bar, you shouldnt have any problems, with where the bar mounts. and the control arms can handle the endlinks just fine. Remember, Our cars suspension is basically the same as the Civic Si and RSX, so if a CTR or a RSX-R can run a 22mm rear bar with no problems then we can too.
You mentioned that we are able to run the 22mm bar. But why is it some of the 7th gen Civics get their endlinks broken after running on them ? Does the CTR or RSX have stronger endlinks ? I was contemplating on getting the 22mm bar because of this.
