Tie Bars and Sway bars - Page 7

cubanmike26 · 10-25-2004

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zzyzx

have fun with that thing, but take it easy at first.... Ease in to it. and most importantly, when the rear end starts coming around on you DO NOT HIT THE BRAKES OR LIFT OFF THE THROTTLE!!!! do some thing usefull instead, like add in more throttle

Hey Zzyzx relax man, you are scaring me

What do you mean don't hit the brakes? Oh boy!! Is it going to be like really hard to handle the back of the car after installing these bars or do you mean only with the rear one installed? I'm surprised at this; I wouldn't had imagine that our FWDs would spin out of control, hmmm...

By the way, I ordered my tokicos Nindo. The seller is here in FL and said I'll get them before Friday, just in time to install them on Saturday. Yeah!!!, he he, sorry guys, I'm excited...
One thing though, will I need a vice to hold them while they are being drilled or can it be done at hand with another person? My Dad's pretty handy with tools, so I think it'll be ok, I'd just like to make sure.
Nindo, seems like we'll get our cars set up the same way but at diferent times. this is cool, we'll be able to compare.

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Zzyzx · 10-25-2004

Well, with a FWD car there are 2 primary ways to get the rear end to rotate for you. (Intentionaly or not)

1. Carrying the brakes too hard Too long in to a corner. (All the wieght is on the nose making the rear end light and slide prone)
2. Lifting off the gas or hitting the brakes mid corner. (Simmilar to above, by doing either of these, you are forcing more weight off the rear and on to the front)

With some pratice (I suggest learning on an autocross course) you can use these two oversteer inducing manuvers to help you take turns Faster and correct for understeer mid corner.

An example of the process may go something like this.
1. as you enter the turn, you should be Threashold braking and Downshifting to the proper corner exit gear (The one that should put you in the powerband for maximum corner exit acceleration).
2. Keep on the brakes as you enter the turn, this should start to get the rear end to slide. (You should be coming off the brakes by now).
3. With the rear end sliding, you should start to add in more throttle just before the car is pointed in the direction you want to go. This should settle the rear end down, and allow you to accelerate out of the corner.

THere are some issues with doing this, such as the amount of Trail braking you need to get the rear end to rotate, and how fast the car actually rotates... But with some time and experamenting, you shoud be able to steer the car with the rear end.

nindoo · 10-25-2004

This sounds like a lot of fun!!!!!
Rear end is gonna be hanging all over place. I might install it after the winter, I just had my car rust proofed. Hmmmmmmmmm I really wanted to get have a bit of fun before the snow hits.

CubanMike26 where did you buy your tokicos? I might like to buy from the same place.

cubanmike26 · 10-25-2004

I bought them from one of the groupbuy sellers. He goes under the name of StreetLevelPerformance. I can't wait for them to get here man!

Zzyzx · 10-25-2004

nindoo, its probably a good idea to leave the larger rear bar off for winter, as a heavily rear biased car tends to not be all that stable in low traction conditions.... You may want to swap between the two for winter, and Drive more carefully when its wet out. I dont have all that much experiance in the snow, but I can tell you that a rear biased FWD car in the rain will want to bring the rear end around Sooner and Much more often then when its dry out.

nindoo · 10-25-2004

Cool I'll wait Impatiently

.

But your right its the mature thing to do. I've never driven anything whose rear end was be all figity.

nindoo · 10-25-2004

I wonder how much work it would be to switch between these two set-ups

1)have a set of tokico shocks with lowering springs for the summer

2)and keep a set of OEM shocks and OEM springs with lowering springs for the winter.

Is it feasible. I've never installed new shocks and springs before, I'll be helping my friend replace the shocks on his uncle's car this weekend.

robbclark1 · 10-25-2004

don't bother swaping the springs and shocks out. I mean you can if you want to, but every time you do it will take up time, increase the chance you will fvck something up, and you will have to get an alignment 2 times a year.

nindoo · 10-25-2004

cool I'll just swap the sway bar. Will I be able to leave the tie bar or will I have to remove it as well? (Progress rear sway/tie bar combo)

Zzyzx · 10-25-2004

You can leave it on...

nindoo · 10-27-2004

Guys I just received my Grey Endlinks

Oh yes sir!

cubanmike26 · 10-27-2004

He he...someone's happy.

nindoo · 10-27-2004

With the progress bar I received to bushings with metal covers. What if instead of the rubber component a solid light metal was used, and maybe have a smaller rubber hose inside to grip the bar? Why is rubber used? Is it to absorb impact that would eventually damage the car?

Zzyzx · 10-27-2004

Its more of a Reducing Vibrations thing... You could use a solid metal bushing as they would get rid of all diflection and make the bar work at its fullest potential, but it would be squeaky, and you'd feel a whole lot more of the road... Great for race cars, not so much for street cars. (especially when picking up a date).

nindoo · 10-27-2004

There only so much discomfort one can tolerate in daily driving.

The best would be to pick up a date in a car with all the interior ripped out and a plastic seat(with no cusions as the pasenger seat). And the date would also have to meet a certain weight requirement. I guess I wouldn't get many second dates.

Even first dates for that matter!