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Old 10-11-2004   #61 (permalink)
nindoo
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I know I keep jumping back and forth, but I think the best option for me will be grey endlinks and the progress bar. The other tie bars are harder to come by. To remove this ad, register today for free or log in if already registered!
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Old 10-12-2004   #62 (permalink)
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this could be a sticky....
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Old 10-12-2004   #63 (permalink)
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If you wait a few months, there may be a 25.4mm Hochkis rear bar on the market.... Slightly used. But it really depends if I can get the rotation I want out of the car with alignment adjustments.... if I cant, then the Hochkis 27mm bar may be on order...
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Old 10-13-2004   #64 (permalink)
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Zzyzx I should have read your post 5 mins ago.
I just ordered the progress bar from TrueHonda.

I was in a bit of a dilema. I didn't know whether to order 2 endlinks or 4. I'm going to most certainly replace the rear endlinks, do you think its a good idea to replace the front ones as well with the oem bar?
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Old 10-13-2004   #65 (permalink)
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Just buy 2. The front endlinks will be fine with a stock bar.

Just a notice to everyone. The 2005 RSX has a 21mm rear bar. It could be of interest to some people. I have no idea how much it costs, call Acura. Its just another step in the sway bar ladder to choose from. Endlinks of suffecient strength to support it should also be available and should bolt right in.
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Old 10-13-2004   #66 (permalink)
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Do you think I can cover the exhaust with something that wont burn that will not allow the exhaust and progress bar to rub causing the paint to come off the bar. I saw some motorcycles and racecars where some of the pipes were covered with this stuff that looked like seat belts from a car. Its better if I can avoid the rubbing cause in Montreal a lot of salt is thrown on the roads during the winter and I don't want that area to corrode.
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Old 10-13-2004   #67 (permalink)
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^^^I remember reading about that stuff to isolate the bar from the exhaust. I'll see if I can find it. They also mentioned it eliminates the squiking noises the bars may cause from rubbing on the exhaust.
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Old 10-13-2004   #68 (permalink)
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Exhaust wraps
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Old 10-13-2004   #69 (permalink)
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yup, "that stuff"
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Old 10-13-2004   #70 (permalink)
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I wonder if the'll have anything similar at my local hardware shop.
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Old 10-19-2004   #71 (permalink)
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When you have a strong chassis that doesn't flex and is more rigid than another chassis what is the benifit? Do the cars rigidity allow it to handle better, or it allows you to push the car harder on turns without breaking or damaging it? Does a poor chassis brake if you push it hard as oppose to a good strong chassis?

I think I'm on the wrong track associating a good chassis to one that doesn't flex which means it has less chances of braking.
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Old 10-19-2004   #72 (permalink)
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A stiffer chassis allows the suspension to do its job better.
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Old 10-19-2004   #73 (permalink)
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a Flexible chassis basicaly acts like a Very large un-dampend spring.... and if its flexible enough it can make tuning the handling of the car near impossible. So the stiffer the chassis, the less the chassis flex influences the handling of the car.
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"I know Solo only comes one minute at a time, but what an intense, non-stop, fast-forward car control exercise minute it is. Sure, the velocity is higher in road racing, but inside the car it is slow-motion in comparison. In Solo, the turns come like machine-gun rounds. "
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Old 10-19-2004   #74 (permalink)
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What are your feelings on this 7thgen chassis zz?
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Old 10-19-2004   #75 (permalink)
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I dont really have any complaints about the chassis its self. Having struts on the noes, causes a bit more stress/flex to happen with the shock towers (double wish bone suspensions put suprisingly little stress on the shock mounts) but its not a real big issue, due to the strut towers being mounted so close to the fire wall. The rear end seems to be stiff, as the shocks are mounted right in to the floor pan, and its a trailing arm suspension any ways, so theres not much stress going to the shock mounts any way. My only real complaint would have to be about the suspension bushings, as the front lower control arm bushings are Very soft and they get torn up quicky (Making steering responce slugish). other then that, the OEM shocks have to go as they are way too soft for any spirited driving (once again Sluggish responce). So basically, get rid of the OEM shocks, Repace the suspension bushings, get some good tires, then Find some decent springs and then fiddle with the anti-roll bars and you can have a Very fun to drive car pretty easily/cheeply.
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Autocross: Because Life is more fun on three wheels......


"I know Solo only comes one minute at a time, but what an intense, non-stop, fast-forward car control exercise minute it is. Sure, the velocity is higher in road racing, but inside the car it is slow-motion in comparison. In Solo, the turns come like machine-gun rounds. "
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