Suspension PerformancePost Suspension related modification information and/or questions here.
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You mentioned that we are able to run the 22mm bar. But why is it some of the 7th gen Civics get their endlinks broken after running on them ? Does the CTR or RSX have stronger endlinks ? I was contemplating on getting the 22mm bar because of this.
I believe it was concluded that it wasnt the size of the bar that was braking the end links, but rather the oblique angle that some of the aftermarket anti-roll bars places the endlinks in. So its more a question of Bar shape then bar thickness. just an example: I recall that Boilermaker is running the comptech 22mm rear bar with stock endlinks, and hasn't had a problem with it yet. and he autocrosses with the car, so They've seen some stress. but then I've seen that the Progress bar tends to snap them.... so I'm more inclined to believe that its the bars shape and not its strength that is brakeing the endlinks.
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Autocross: Because Life is more fun on three wheels......
"I know Solo only comes one minute at a time, but what an intense, non-stop, fast-forward car control exercise minute it is. Sure, the velocity is higher in road racing, but inside the car it is slow-motion in comparison. In Solo, the turns come like machine-gun rounds. "
Randy Pobst
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I sway that our rear struts mounts are pretty deep into the trunK. I was thinking that installing as rear strut towerbrace wouldn't compromise much space. Do any of you have pics or comments about this.
a rear upper tie bar is pretty useless..... Thanks to us having double wishbone on the back.
THink of it this way, a tie bar stops flex by attaching to the top of the shock mount right? well, on a Strut type suspension (like our front suspension) this works great, because the shock its self is a load bearing part of the suspension, so the shock mount sees alot of force and distortion... On a double wishbone suspension, the shock is not a load bearing part of the suspension, so it should see little to no flex, as the Control arms and their mounts would be the points that absorb the suspension loads, and there currently isnt any way to tie the upper control arm mounts together.. (the only direction the shock should be pushed is up, when the suspension compresses, and a tie bar wouldnt effect that any way).
So, save your $$ and spend it on something worth wild... like control arm bushings
Autocross: Because Life is more fun on three wheels......
"I know Solo only comes one minute at a time, but what an intense, non-stop, fast-forward car control exercise minute it is. Sure, the velocity is higher in road racing, but inside the car it is slow-motion in comparison. In Solo, the turns come like machine-gun rounds. "
Randy Pobst
a rear upper tie bar is pretty useless..... Thanks to us having double wishbone on the back.
THink of it this way, a tie bar stops flex by attaching to the top of the shock mount right? well, on a Strut type suspension (like our front suspension) this works great, because the shock its self is a load bearing part of the suspension, so the shock mount sees alot of force and distortion... On a double wishbone suspension, the shock is not a load bearing part of the suspension, so it should see little to no flex, as the Control arms and their mounts would be the points that absorb the suspension loads, and there currently isnt any way to tie the upper control arm mounts together.. (the only direction the shock should be pushed is up, when the suspension compresses, and a tie bar wouldnt effect that any way).
So, save your $$ and spend it on something worth wild... like control arm bushings
Zzyzx thanks for the guidance.
I changed the rear shocks on an older Nissan sentra and shocks were on an angle unlike ours. Ours come straight down.
okay, ive read through all of this an dim still not sure... im more of a touge driver... i need a good system for roads but not a weak dailt system. I used to drive a mr2 so im pretty good with oversteer. I drive a 04 civic ex. I pretty set on the koni shocks, but what spring should i use? Also what says? I really like the neuspeed setup but i don't know if it's any good... also looking for good tires, i live in cali so no snow, and little rain... i want a cornering monster!
okay, ive read through all of this an dim still not sure... im more of a touge driver... i need a good system for roads but not a weak dailt system. I used to drive a mr2 so im pretty good with oversteer. I drive a 04 civic ex. I pretty set on the koni shocks, but what spring should i use? Also what says? I really like the neuspeed setup but i don't know if it's any good... also looking for good tires, i live in cali so no snow, and little rain... i want a cornering monster!
THanks!
Ok......
heres spencers Conering monster mix...
1. wheels and tires.... Find your self the lightest set of 15X7's you can afford, then wrap them in either Falken Azenis sports (RT-215) or Kumho MX. Both are 205/50-15's.
2. Anti-roll bars.. If you dont have one now, Get the 03+ 15.9mm front anti-Roll bar... tie that in with either a 22mm rear, or preferably the Hotchkis 27mm 2 point adjustible bar. (If you wait a while, my 25.4mm hotchkis bar may be fore sale soon)
3. Springs. Pick up a set of Ground control adjustible sleved coilovers... Specify a spring rate of around the mid 400 LB/in on the front and around Mid to high 500 LB/in on the rear...
4. Shocks.... Get konis, set the fronts fairly soft and the rears fairly hard... Tune the balance between the two to get the corner entry/exit you want. (Increas rebound on the side you want to have stick less)
5. Alignment.... Run between -2 to -3 Deg camber on the nose, half of that on the rear. 0 Toe front and rear, adjust toe as nessisary to get the corner ing you want... Toe out on the front for better turn in, Toe out on the rear to get better rotation, Toe in on the front to reduce oversteer, toe in on the rear to reduce oversteer.... 0 toe is a good place to start.
6. chassis braceing... You may want to pick up an Autopower Roll cage (Considerign what you do with the car) other wise, a front strut tower bar would be good, as well as a rear lower tie bar...
other then that, make sure your life insurance policy is paid for, your Will up to date, and keep a clean set of underwear in the glove compartment....
Autocross: Because Life is more fun on three wheels......
"I know Solo only comes one minute at a time, but what an intense, non-stop, fast-forward car control exercise minute it is. Sure, the velocity is higher in road racing, but inside the car it is slow-motion in comparison. In Solo, the turns come like machine-gun rounds. "
Randy Pobst
other then that, make sure your life insurance policy is paid for, your Will up to date, and keep a clean set of underwear in the glove compartment....
Autocross: Because Life is more fun on three wheels......
"I know Solo only comes one minute at a time, but what an intense, non-stop, fast-forward car control exercise minute it is. Sure, the velocity is higher in road racing, but inside the car it is slow-motion in comparison. In Solo, the turns come like machine-gun rounds. "
Randy Pobst
You think its a good idea to keep the civic as a daily driver and to buy a second car for racing like an old miata or CRX?
Well, I want to run and win at the nationals... and unfortunatly, this car isnt going to let me do that. So the current plan is to learn as much about tuning and driving with what I've got, and then pick up something that can be natioally compeditive... Miata in CSP, 88 CRX Si in ST2, and the 89 Civic Si in STS. But untill I get one of those cars, the Lil' 01 EX will have to bear the brunt of my racing...
Autocross: Because Life is more fun on three wheels......
"I know Solo only comes one minute at a time, but what an intense, non-stop, fast-forward car control exercise minute it is. Sure, the velocity is higher in road racing, but inside the car it is slow-motion in comparison. In Solo, the turns come like machine-gun rounds. "
Randy Pobst
Autocross: Because Life is more fun on three wheels......
"I know Solo only comes one minute at a time, but what an intense, non-stop, fast-forward car control exercise minute it is. Sure, the velocity is higher in road racing, but inside the car it is slow-motion in comparison. In Solo, the turns come like machine-gun rounds. "
Randy Pobst
a rear upper tie bar is pretty useless..... Thanks to us having double wishbone on the back.
THink of it this way, a tie bar stops flex by attaching to the top of the shock mount right? well, on a Strut type suspension (like our front suspension) this works great, because the shock its self is a load bearing part of the suspension, so the shock mount sees alot of force and distortion... On a double wishbone suspension, the shock is not a load bearing part of the suspension, so it should see little to no flex, as the Control arms and their mounts would be the points that absorb the suspension loads, and there currently isnt any way to tie the upper control arm mounts together.. (the only direction the shock should be pushed is up, when the suspension compresses, and a tie bar wouldnt effect that any way).
So, save your $$ and spend it on something worth wild... like control arm bushings
So I believe you do not have a rear upper strut bar ? Do you have a rear lower tie bar though ? Read somewhere in this forum that it is recommended to have a rear lower tie bar with an upgraded rear anti-roll bar. You are running on the hotchicks of 25.4mm right ? By the way dude, do you think a front lower brace is good for making a better cornering car if we were to put aside the increase in understeer ?
So I believe you do not have a rear upper strut bar ? Do you have a rear lower tie bar though ? Read somewhere in this forum that it is recommended to have a rear lower tie bar with an upgraded rear anti-roll bar. You are running on the hotchicks of 25.4mm right ? By the way dude, do you think a front lower brace is good for making a better cornering car if we were to put aside the increase in understeer ?
You'd be right, I dont have an upper rear bar. Nor do I have a Lower Rear tie bar... though one of those is in the game plan (just not a real High Priority) Actually a Rear upper tie bar is in the plan, but not for any performance gains, but rather for something to better secure my subwoofer to, so it doesnt go floping around when I'm on the street....
ya I do have the Hochkis 25.4mm adjustible bar. Though if I cant get the handling I want by adjusting alignment, I may be getting the 27mm bar.
Regarding a lower brace.... well, It will help handling by reducing chassis flex, but it doesn't actually influence oversteer/understeer... I think people say it does because they expect to be able to take turns much faster with one one, so they try and just run in to more of the cars natural understeer... and they blame it on the chassis brace. (Rather then Driver error, wich it really is... because, after all, we all drive better then Mario Andretti, right?? )
Autocross: Because Life is more fun on three wheels......
"I know Solo only comes one minute at a time, but what an intense, non-stop, fast-forward car control exercise minute it is. Sure, the velocity is higher in road racing, but inside the car it is slow-motion in comparison. In Solo, the turns come like machine-gun rounds. "
Randy Pobst
So I believe you do not have a rear upper strut bar ? Do you have a rear lower tie bar though ? Read somewhere in this forum that it is recommended to have a rear lower tie bar with an upgraded rear anti-roll bar. You are running on the hotchicks of 25.4mm right ? By the way dude, do you think a front lower brace is good for making a better cornering car if we were to put aside the increase in understeer ?
He mentioned that it reduces the flex that happens between the lower control arms.
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