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Old 04-28-2004   #106 (permalink)
VNlilMAN
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Quote:
Originally posted by 7gen03
honda designed the tie rods to move up and down they have to because of the way there mounted to the strut but they cant move on any other plane(front to back ).
Actually I remember when i installed my springs, i moved the tie rod left/right(front/back) to move it out of the way

robbclark1, adjusting the toe is easy enough.. you just have to loosen the bolt and turn. The hard part is setting it right without an alignment rack.
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Old 04-28-2004   #107 (permalink)
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that bolt does not move, i dont belive it does. ive changed my tie rod b4 and it was a biach to get off.. i thought i had to loosen that bolt, but it's just there to help u hold the end bolt of the tie rod so its not bouncing all over the place. but like i said im not to sure i didnt mess with it to much. i know u can adjust the tie rod end to make it longer just like ur takeing it off.

Last edited by dj02; 04-28-2004 at 02:51 PM.
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Old 04-28-2004   #108 (permalink)
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I can take corners at 35+ with my b+g and falken azenis
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Old 04-28-2004   #109 (permalink)
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I've taken offramps and onramps at 100+
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Old 04-28-2004   #110 (permalink)
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It DOES move.. the alignment shop forgot to tighten it the first time around and it was loose. I started to turn the tie rod and it turns, shortening/longating the tie rod. Then just tighten the bolt back up

If i take corners even at 25mph, i rub just the way i like it, tuckin...
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Old 04-28-2004   #111 (permalink)
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It does move. There is no other way to adjust the toe without moving that nut.
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Old 04-28-2004   #112 (permalink)
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Give me a couple hours, I'll explain this with real pictures of the car when I get home. It'll make things easier.
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Old 04-28-2004   #113 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by Boilermaker1
Give me a couple hours, I'll explain this with real pictures of the car when I get home. It'll make things easier.
We want answers now!!!


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Old 04-28-2004   #114 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by robbclark1
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Old 04-28-2004   #115 (permalink)
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hey, VNlilMAN, what setting are you on with your D2, i am lowered about 2inch all around, and the guy who install for me set mine shocks pretty hard, haha, he said he wanted me to feels the fun or cornering, but i am mostly a highway driver, should i set it to abit softer, thx.
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Old 04-29-2004   #116 (permalink)
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^^ yes if u want a softer ride set them to a softer setting. but on the fwy i would perfer hard cuzz its long plain road not as many bumps as on the st. for st driveing set to softer setting
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Old 04-29-2004   #117 (permalink)
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Yeah, shocks up all the way is gonna make it rough.
I run my JICs at 3/15 all the way around on the street.
When I race, I turn them up to about 6 in the front and 11 in the rear, then play with it depending on what the car does.

Now, as far as the things with the tie rod go... you can't really see much in the pictures I took.... its dark and there's lots of crap in the way.
But, to answer a couple things... the tie rod will move in any direction, up and down, front to back in the car... the inner end is either a U joint or a Ball joint or some sort under the boot. It can move.
Now as far as the alignment goes... go out and look down the firewall in your car. Dead smack in the center is the steering system. Its a box with a shaft perpendicular to the firewall, the 2 tie rods are connected to it. The the rods are then connected to the struts, but you'll notice that the tie rods have to angle forward to connect to the steering arms. The tie rods, the firewall, and the plane of the steering arm make a triangle parallel to the ground. When the car is aligned, the steering arm should be 90 degrees to the fire wall.
Now lets start messing with things.
Any time you mess with anything, the tie rod length remains constant (until its realigned). We're going to call the length from the steering arm to the firewall a and from the steering box to the steering arm that is parallel to the firewall b.
First, we'll change JUST the camber. So with the plate, you'll push the top of the strut in. Because of where the steering arm is placed, the arm moves too. The problem is the tie rod doesn't change length. So... this turns the strut because the point where the steering arm is bolted to the tie rod cannot move. Since the steering arm is in the back, you get toe in when you add negative camber. Basically you're changing the b length at the top of the strut, but the steering arm can't follow.
Lets now mess with JUST caster. So we're going to move it forwards and backwards. Lets move it backwards for more positive caster. What this does is shorten a. The strut gets closer to the firewall. As this gets shorter, The tie rod once again cannot change its length, and geometry will create an oblique angle now where the right angle was... so the strut is forced to turn in. Toe in again.

Now compound them. Lets change A and B. So everything gets shorter, and the tie rod still remains its original length. 2 toe in situations, and now you're going to add them together.
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Old 04-29-2004   #118 (permalink)
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yes, that is what i have been saying all along
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Suspension FAQ
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I live my life 1 cone at a time, for those 70 seconds or less, I'm free


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Old 05-08-2004   #119 (permalink)
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hey VNlilMAN, is there any type of coating on the coilovers to prevent rust??
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Old 05-10-2004   #120 (permalink)
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same question as above. also, wondering how the set up is doing. thinkin' about droppin' my car w/ my tax check commin soon. got over a G and need to spend it on something!!! hah...let us know man. thanks
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