Suspension PerformancePost Suspension related modification information and/or questions here.
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Well not sure if you'd consider it part of installation but the way you adjust the height is different. And the D2s also dont come with rear top mounts so you need to use the stock ones. The front installation is pretty much the same except yeah, the brake line bracket. You dont need to weld it, just place the bracket on the bolt before you tighten it up.
UrbanImport just ran out of D2s as well. They should receive another shipment in like a month. I think they're getting the hayames really soon tho.
Anytime you lower the car, your going to have more negative camber. This is pretty much a guarentee. Also things arent going to be lined up exactly the way it was before you touched the suspension, this will also change the alignment. Especially when you put in new struts, the strut design isnt going to match the stock strut designed 100% so that will throw the alignment off big time depending on how different it is. But ya its just something that recommend anytime you touch the suspension ESPECIALLY when you change the shocks/struts.
So if I get the hayames and plan on dropping my car approximately 2 inches, do you think I'll need a camber kit, or I could do without one ?
Do you think its a bad idea for me to go the honda dealer to have my alignment done after I install the suspension? The reason I ask is because they owe me one free alignment.
yeah you probably will need one for 2". Just the rear(since the fronts already come with it)
Eh you can try but they probably wont do it since its a lowered car... I went to discount tires and they hassled me saying it wouldnt fit on their rack. but ya doesnt hurt to try, only thing is they might give you a lecture and tell you how you voided your suspension warranty
a garage that modifies cars will most likely not have a wheel alignment machine. You have to take it to a wheel shop most likely, but ask the speed shop where they take their cars. No one should give you a lecture about camber, just tell them to shut up and align the car to what specs you want. Just take it to Honda and say you want -.5 camber front, and -.75 camber rear and 0 toe all around. that isn't perfect OEM but it is well within specs.
put everything on, let it settle, see how you like the drop and adjust accordingly to fit your needs. A week or two with negative camber won't kill anything. Make all your adjustments before you get it aligned. Make sure there is NOT a lot of preload on the front or rear springs. Preload (changing the springs height) does not change the height of the car on Hayames. Turning the shock in and out of the mount changes the height
__________________ Life isnt a test drive, gotta live a little. (02fpcivic)
No you can't keep stock height with coilovers. They automatically lower your car. No you don't set it high, get it aligned and then lower it. That is just dumb and tell that person he needs to go find out about vehicle dynamics. If you lower or raise you move the pivot points thus changing camber and toe. Every time you adjust the coils you should get an alignment, but it isn't necessary unless something is way out of wack or you changed the settings very severely.
yes factory settings is 0 camber, but 0 camber sucks for turning. -.5 and -.75 will give you a little inner tire wear but not much, but it will help with turning. why lower if your suspension settings suck right?
__________________ Life isnt a test drive, gotta live a little. (02fpcivic)
7gen03, Glad you brought that up. I've been meaning to add it to my review... They meant to make it like that. Reason being when you autocross you usually want as much negative camber as well as POSITIVE CASTER. The way the plates are positioned you get two in one basically. If you want proof here it is..
"If you are a competition driver who frequently runs autocross, track or road race events, you'll typically want the maximum negative camber, maximum positive caster and most aggressive toe settings available from the car and permitted by the competition rules. If the rules permit, aftermarket camber plates and caster adjustments are good investments."
taken from http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiret...neral/align.jsp
I'll go further in depth later...
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Thanks for your reply, regarding your question about ES1, actually our
pillowball top mount is designed not only for adjust camber but also
including adjust caster, according the pictures that you sent to me,
this is
correct , the newest and also the best setting , such as BMW, BENZ,
and
porsche. The caster angle will be obliquer than normal street purpose,
and
also the veer of steering will be more accurate.
You still can't adjust them on the fly. Regardless of how they're positioned, you can't get the toe straight thanks to the steering arm. You will have mad toe in and the car becomes undrivable. This is speaking from experience, then numerous phone calls to everyone who had camber plates available at the time (Tein, JIC, Hotchkis, and Ground Control) to try and figure out what wasn't right. You can't make on the spot adjustments without doing the whole alignment over. So even if you can put extra caster in, you still need to set it, align it and leave it.
I wonder if changing the caster helps out with the toe issue? example if positive camber gives you toe-in would positive caster give you toe-out, thus helping that out a bit?
iJudging from the stock suspension Negative caster will give you toe in and positive caster will give you toe out, like you said. Unfortunately we don't have much room for caster play unless you get a caster plate and possibly cut your strut housing. hmmm limitless opportunities to mess with this, just no $$, time or track time. I don't know how much caster will help though. Someone will have to try it.
__________________ Life isnt a test drive, gotta live a little. (02fpcivic)
^^^ Just remember Robbclark and Boilermaker, if you want to remain in STS The center clearance hole may not be modified.
Rule 17.8 Section C.
other wise, How many people here acutally race their car or even care how much camber/caster/toe they have. most will just have the car aligned with in factory specs and call it a day. The rest of us will just deal with the little problems because we want that last tenth on the track.
