Suspension PerformancePost Suspension related modification information and/or questions here.
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I am not sure but from these pics it looks like the upper camber plates are useless> The bolts cant move either way and they shoul slide on the purple piece right? NUmbers 1-4 i circled so you can see what i mean the knob #5 looks nice but i am still wondering about the camber plates. Also the axis that the camber is adjusted on is no perpendicular with the the axis of the wheel meaning that if camber is adjusted it also screws up toe and caster.
Originally posted by 7gen03 I am not sure but from these pics it looks like the upper camber plates are useless> The bolts cant move either way and they shoul slide on the purple piece right? NUmbers 1-4 i circled so you can see what i mean the knob #5 looks nice but i am still wondering about the camber plates. Also the axis that the camber is adjusted on is no perpendicular with the the axis of the wheel meaning that if camber is adjusted it also screws up toe and caster.
Can you see the other hole in between the 2 at each side that you circled ? The holes cater for another mounting point for the camber adjustment bolts. So you can adjust the camber without any car frame mods.
ok i see now its hard to till from pics thanks just trying to clear up a few questions. BUt what about the way the camber gets adjusted Like i stated before. Is there a way to index the mount so the adjustment in camber is sisde to side instead of like it is in the pic almost front to back.
Originally posted by 7gen03 ok i see now its hard to till from pics thanks just trying to clear up a few questions. BUt what about the way the camber gets adjusted Like i stated before. Is there a way to index the mount so the adjustment in camber is sisde to side instead of like it is in the pic almost front to back.
Perhaps the top mount has to be shifted so that the camber adjustment is more prominent side to side with a slight adjustment. You might want to ask Vnilman about this one.
So far no weird noises... Usually noises are an installation issue anyways
botlbobjr, yes you will have to drill the camber bolts a little bigger BUT you can always get the EP3 ones(since they use the same size) and just get custom spring rates(or just use theirs). That should work just fine..
7gen03, Glad you brought that up. I've been meaning to add it to my review... They meant to make it like that. Reason being when you autocross you usually want as much negative camber as well as POSITIVE CASTER. The way the plates are positioned you get two in one basically. If you want proof here it is..
"If you are a competition driver who frequently runs autocross, track or road race events, you'll typically want the maximum negative camber, maximum positive caster and most aggressive toe settings available from the car and permitted by the competition rules. If the rules permit, aftermarket camber plates and caster adjustments are good investments."
taken from http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tirete...eral/align.jsp
I'll go further in depth later...
^^^DONT forget the og e-mail from d2
and where he talks about ES1 for you that dont know thats, the 7thgen 4dr oooh yea no one likes ur em2 =P hahah naw but thats what they know over there only 4drs
Thanks for your reply, regarding your question about ES1, actually our
pillowball top mount is designed not only for adjust camber but also
including adjust caster, according the pictures that you sent to me,
this is
correct , the newest and also the best setting , such as BMW, BENZ,
and
porsche. The caster angle will be obliquer than normal street purpose,
and
also the veer of steering will be more accurate.
Originally posted by VNlilMAN So far no weird noises... Usually noises are an installation issue anyways
botlbobjr, yes you will have to drill the camber bolts a little bigger BUT you can always get the EP3 ones(since they use the same size) and just get custom spring rates(or just use theirs). That should work just fine..
7gen03, Glad you brought that up. I've been meaning to add it to my review... They meant to make it like that. Reason being when you autocross you usually want as much negative camber as well as POSITIVE CASTER. The way the plates are positioned you get two in one basically. If you want proof here it is..
"If you are a competition driver who frequently runs autocross, track or road race events, you'll typically want the maximum negative camber, maximum positive caster and most aggressive toe settings available from the car and permitted by the competition rules. If the rules permit, aftermarket camber plates and caster adjustments are good investments."
taken from http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tirete...eral/align.jsp
I'll go further in depth later...
Cool Thats what i needed alittle 411 on the the topic Thanks did a little research myself and i agree No more questions no its just time to wait for the next shipment so i can see how they ride. It was these or hayames and i went with these will see. I wont be the only one to change his suspension more then once.
[quote]botlbobjr, yes you will have to drill the camber bolts a little bigger BUT you can always get the EP3 ones(since they use the same size) and just get custom spring rates(or just use theirs). That should work just fine..[quote]
Can u direct me as to what pieces i need to mod by a pic or possibly show me a site where i could buy them
oooh yea no one likes ur em2 =P hahah naw but thats what they know over there only 4drs
