Wheels,Tires & BrakesPost Wheel, Tire & Brake related modification information and/or questions here.
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Grey, thanks for the best guide I've seen on the net.
Grey, ditto. I just reread some of your DIY's for reference, I am preparing to do my timing belt! You definitely have a good eye for detail.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sara-Lee
On my Civic, the rear pistons are threaded. You have to screw them in, not push them in using a c-clamp.
You also have to unclip the handbrake cable before you can remove the caliper. The length and position of the brake fluid pipe also makes it impossible to use the trick of unfastening the bottom nut and flipping the caliper up. Instead you have to wiggle and push to lift the caliper off.
I found that my Civic had non-standard pads: that is, they didn't match the model and year chart at Halfords, or online. I guess this isn't usual. But before buying pads, I wished I had taken them out and drawn the profile and measured. That would have saved a lot of time.
Uh, Feminazi Sara-Lee, may I suggest, and this is just a suggestion, that you leave the year, and model of your vehicle so that you can add intelligence to this thread? There may be others in the same [let's hope not, but, I guess it is possible] predicament as you.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sara-Lee
Then a couple of other notes. First for the admin: I thought this stuff was worth leaving as a note, but I really had to struggle to register. The registration form seemed to be adding in blanks and line breaks in the email sent out. It might just be me, but...
Uh, Feminazi Sara-Lee, if you are struggling to register to this website, you may want to board the short bus tomorrow morning.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sara-Lee
And lastly, to add a bit of petrol to a fire... Manutd0018 and and dru016, what kind of twats are you to use pictures like that? Are you maybe 13 years old, not 18 and 16 like your names suggest? Girls drive and mod Civics too.
Uhhhh, Fem-i-Nazi, Sara-Lee, for the most part, folks on this website are from the U S and A. Here, we have privileges that allow us to make choices on our own. Just like your unfortunate choice to leave a comment here on this forum!!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sara-Lee
No need to reply. This is a one time posting. And, no I'm not a lesbian, and yes, I do get quite a lot.
Feminazi Sara-Lee, are you sure about this? Have you discussed this with anyone?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sara-Lee
Thanks again Grey for the brilliant howto,
Sara-Lee
Feminazi, this is the only comment you made that raised our trust in your intelligence. Sorry Hunny, [if you are a chick.]
Bye.
Oh, and Feminazi? No need to reply. This is a one time posting.
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Has anyone else noticed a slight vibration coming from the brake pedal during moderate braking after installing cross-drilled rotors??
If you have a vibration after new rotors its not from them being slotted. Its from not indexing the rotor to the hub to minimize run-out. Max run-out is .003" (.004" per honda ) and the best way to cure the problem now is to have them machined on the car!
__________________ 169.8whp / 154 ft lbs tq @ 7psi with an auto trans! Click Image for my turbo install!
Grey, great DIY. I've done brake rotor/pad replacements on most of my vehicles, & your DIY seems spot-on. But I do have a couple of questions:
1-) I never know the difference between "right-hand" & "left-hand" threads. "Standard" threads are clockwise to tighten & counter-clockwise to loosen (as my wife says: "Righty-tighty & Lefty-loosey"). But which way to tighten/loosen "right" or "left" hand threads?
2-)We have always bled brake lines by attaching a piece of rubber hose to each bleeder nipple an pushing the other ends into clean soda bottles half-full of fresh brake fluid, then bleeding the brakes individually, starting with the one furthest from the master cylinder (longest line) & ending with the one closest to the master cyl (shortest line). this allows a single person to bleed the lines - w/o help. of course, one must always be careful to not let the master cyl run dry. however, it has always worked for me, and I've never needed any help bleeding the lines. Is there a problem with this method?
3-) & here's why I'm wanting to UPGRADE the brakes & not just "replace" the pads & rotors on my Civic ('98 LX w/90k "all mine" miles): the rotors always seem to warp before the pads get halfway worn out! (and, I want to drive the thing another 10 years or so w/o having to replace the rotors several more times. SO, what would be the best heavy-duty rotors available?
Please excuse any typos - I'm typing this on my PocketPC from the hotel room (kids & wife are asleep) while we're out of town, and my fingers are fatter than these keys!!!
Thanks for sharing your expertise,
David
San Antonio, TX
I have ROTORA BIG brAKE KIT ON MY CIVIC, THEY ARE AWSOME WAY BETTER THAN BREMBO, BUT IF U WANT BETTER THAN ROTORA, U CAN GO WITH WILLWOOD BRAKE SYSTEM, OR ENDLESS .........THEY ARE GREAT, BUT U GONNA NEED A TON OF CASH.
NOTE: this pics are from my old civic, this same rotora brake system it ll be install in my new EM2, i have a bunch of after market parts sitting in my garage, but im waiting for the winter to be over, so by spring i ll put the big brake kit, and the other stuff, i need this EM2, really clean jdm style, for the beginning tour of HIN in april.
and to explain thing better, as u see in this 2000 civic ferio, it has a set of advan wheels, those wheel are now on my EM2, here is a pic.
Last edited by 00telehit; 12-08-2008 at 10:35 AM.
Reason: because i need to add something else , that i forgot
So basically before I bleed the brakes I take out as much fluid from the resovoir and then put new fluid in there. Then I start with one brake and bleed it and then add more fluid when it gets low. Then I do this 3 more times, then fill it again at the end. So I need to fill it after bleeding each brake.
Just don's drain all the fluid out, other wise you will have a bunch of air in the lines and that is not good.