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Old 12-19-2005   #76 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nates02EX
Hey I did my brakes today and one of those damn screws stripped so i had to drill it out, just incase anyone wants to know, the size of these screws are M6, i went ahead and bought a few incase i did it again next time.

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Get an impact screwdriver for removing those. Get it from harborfreight.com for like $10.
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Old 12-19-2005   #77 (permalink)
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Old 12-19-2005   #78 (permalink)
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neh, hes just the ghost of 7thgen past.. he'll be gone as soon as the holidays are over
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Old 01-24-2006   #79 (permalink)
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Exclamation

I don't have a vise grip of c-clamp to push in the piston. What do i do now because i can't fit the pads over the rotor? Sorry, but how do i push the piston back exactly?
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Old 01-24-2006   #80 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ManUtd0018
I don't have a vise grip of c-clamp to push in the piston. What do i do now because i can't fit the pads over the rotor? Sorry, but how do i push the piston back exactly?
Buy a clamp
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Old 01-24-2006   #81 (permalink)
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yeah buy a clamp or go to walmart and get one just don't push it in too hard
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Old 01-24-2006   #82 (permalink)
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Exclamation

Thanks, i figured it out.

Should the pads be touching the rotor? I slipped the caliper onto the rotor pretty easily once i pushed the piston back; but, once i started driving and had finished the first part of the bedding and break in period (35mph to 5mph x 10) I pulled over to let the rotors cool according to the directions for tempering the powerslots, and i noticed that the brakes were smoking!! I waited 30min and then drove 3 miles home without doing the second part of the break in process.

IS this normal for the pads to be really close? It doesn't seem that the pads are exerting pressure onto the rotors but they are rubbing...
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Old 01-24-2006   #83 (permalink)
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i've been hearing that the smoke is normal..
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Old 01-24-2006   #84 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ManUtd0018
Thanks, i figured it out.

Should the pads be touching the rotor? I slipped the caliper onto the rotor pretty easily once i pushed the piston back; but, once i started driving and had finished the first part of the bedding and break in period (35mph to 5mph x 10) I pulled over to let the rotors cool according to the directions for tempering the powerslots, and i noticed that the brakes were smoking!! I waited 30min and then drove 3 miles home without doing the second part of the break in process.

IS this normal for the pads to be really close? It doesn't seem that the pads are exerting pressure onto the rotors but they are rubbing...
where did you even hear about that kind of break in....there was nothing with my powerslots or my axxis pads that said anything about a break in period like that, they said for the first 500 miles or so brake slowly and evenly.....if i remember correctly....
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Last edited by shroomster; 01-24-2006 at 04:15 PM.
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Old 01-24-2006   #85 (permalink)
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I have the instructions in my car. I will scan and post for you to see. But is the smoke normal, and should the pads be that close?
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Old 01-24-2006   #86 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ManUtd0018
I have the instructions in my car. I will scan and post for you to see. But is the smoke normal, and should the pads be that close?
I had no smoke to be honest with you...and it may look like they're touching but its just cause they're so close together...the gap is like a few micrmeters or something...
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Old 01-24-2006   #87 (permalink)
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Here's the scan: It is also written on the hawk pads box that this type of break in period should be followed.
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Old 03-08-2007   #88 (permalink)
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Thanks for this post OP, did my girlfriends car a cpl of weekends ago with my brother's help and this guide. Took less than an hour and was only $55.
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Old 03-14-2007   #89 (permalink)
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Arrow

Quote:
Originally Posted by knipple View Post
For those that have a Torque Wrench, the torque specifications for the two inner bolts(the ones that when removed allow the caliper to be removed from the wheel) is 79.6 ft lbs.
This is invaluable info! Torque specs are a must have...IMO!


GREY -- GREAT DIY!


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Old 09-25-2007   #90 (permalink)
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Re: DIY: Brake Pads and Rotor Install *Updated*

Grey, thanks for the best guide I've seen on the net.

I've a couple of notes to add.

On my Civic, the rear pistons are threaded. You have to screw them in, not push them in using a c-clamp.

You also have to unclip the handbrake cable before you can remove the caliper. The length and position of the brake fluid pipe also makes it impossible to use the trick of unfastening the bottom nut and flipping the caliper up. Instead you have to wiggle and push to lift the caliper off.

I found that my Civic had non-standard pads: that is, they didn't match the model and year chart at Halfords, or online. I guess this isn't usual. But before buying pads, I wished I had taken them out and drawn the profile and measured. That would have saved a lot of time.

----

Then a couple of other notes. First for the admin: I thought this stuff was worth leaving as a note, but I really had to struggle to register. The registration form seemed to be adding in blanks and line breaks in the email sent out. It might just be me, but...

And lastly, to add a bit of petrol to a fire... Manutd0018 and and dru016, what kind of twats are you to use pictures like that? Are you maybe 13 years old, not 18 and 16 like your names suggest? Girls drive and mod Civics too.

No need to reply. This is a one time posting. And, no I'm not a lesbian, and yes, I do get quite a lot.

Thanks again Grey for the brilliant howto,

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