DIY: Brake Pads and Rotor Install *Updated* - Page 3

EternalVTEC · 05-11-2004

Quote:

Originally posted by Grey
Although, in theory they should work better than the stock ones do. The holes increase the surface area of the rotor and allow the air to flow through the rotor which increases cooling of the rotor. The slots are there to prevent the buildup of brake dust so that it doesn't form a glaze on the surface of the brake pad. This glaze forms under hard braking and has lower frictional properties than the surface of a non-glazed brake pad. In effect, you will be able to effectively brake longer than before.

i believe this is partially incorrect. buy drilling the holes and slotting the rotors, you are DEcreasing the surface area, thus requiring a LARGER rotor to achieve the same fade resistance of stock, more material = more heat the rotor can soak up = better fade resistance

in effect, a "Big Brake Kit" may have little to no more surface area than stock. the benefits of the drilled holes are marginal and merely create points for stress cracks to occur, and the slots arent really needed because a decent set of new pads doesnt "gas-out" like older pads did, thus making the slotting unnecessary.

this is a good DIY dont get me wong, but there are better rotor choices out there(brembo blanks, etc.)

just trying to inform people

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Grey · 05-16-2004

You're kinda repeating what the ads for non-drilled rotors say. What you're saying makes sense, but there are a ton of factors to consider. The amount of frictional force does not decrease with surface area; kinda a law of physics. You have a point with the more mass = more heat soaking capability. Although it's how hot the rotor gets that's most important. Less mass = more hot, but less mass due to holes = less hot. There's an optimum point here. One that balances cooling through surface area and mass.

tfnaaf · 05-17-2004

^^^ pretty much yes, but may not have to refill after each wheel. Usually you can do both backs then check fluid level then both fronts and top it off at the end. But this all varries with how many times you have to bleed each wheel.

streetglower · 05-31-2004

what are the sizes for the 4 bolts and the bleeder screws so I know what size wrenches to have?

dubz01si · 06-05-2004

what the hell do you do when your phillp screw is stripped the F-ing thing just stiped on my with the right size phillip F\/ck

tfnaaf · 06-06-2004

Quote:

Originally Posted by dubz01si

what the hell do you do when your phillp screw is stripped the F-ing thing just stiped on my with the right size phillip F\/ck

use a drill bit and just drill out the head of the screw then the rotor will come off. then you can usually easily remove the stub of the screw after the rotor is off. Ive done it MANY times

streetglower · 06-09-2004

Quote:

Originally Posted by manu

Hey Grey great DIY ; but i just can't take out the bolts for the calipers .

I was able to take only one bottom bolt and the other three aren't moving at all. I tried WD-40 , i tried a friend of mine who's stronger than me and it just won't come off. Got any ideas ??? anybody ??

What you can also do is put the wrench on the nut and use a hammer and hit the wrench untill the nut comes loose. I do this with changing my oil.

Fred · 06-11-2004

Taking Grey's advice in his DIY on brakes, I bought an impact screw driver. you hit it with a hammer. The good news was that I got the two screws out of the rotor BUT I coudn't get the rotor off the hub. Any ideas?

streetglower · 06-11-2004

have you tried using a mallet to hit the rotor?

tfnaaf · 06-11-2004

penetrating oil, and TAP the face ( in between the wheel studs ) LIGHTLY. DONT hit the surface that the pads ride on. Worse case use a LARGE generic gear puller and grab the out side of the rotor with the hooks tighten it sligtly and then tap on rotor again. Rinse and repeat.........

hankscorpio · 06-21-2004

Grey, i just put on some aem rotors and now i think i put them on the wrong way. My rotors are in like yours are in the picture but I just want to make sure that the picture is the old one and not the updated one. I don't have a picture of mine, but again they look like yours in the picture. Mine are only slotted though and heres a rough diagram of what the drivers side looks like.

|````(```|
|````o```| Caliper Here
|,,,,,,),,,,,|

let the ( represent the 'rough' direction of the slots.
( for some reason extra spaces are taken out so i had to put in `'s instead)

Don't laugh at my diagram, but it just seems like this way is the way that would wear the pad the least since its the middle of the curve thats hitting the pad first as opposed to the ends. Hope this made sense.

Grey · 06-21-2004

Yep, the way they are in the picture is the way they're not supposed to be. Hehe... I should post an updated pic, huh?

hankscorpio · 06-22-2004

Thanks for the help.

I was searching through the members rides pics for other peoples install and every picture i saw, people had there rotors in the wrong way except for one.

This was the only picture i could find of them in the correct direction

Grey · 06-22-2004

Well... It's a weird thing actually. The direction you should have them in is different from vendor to vendor. I'm following Brembo's instructions for their own make of cross-drilled rotors (not the ones I bought), so I don't know... I guess you should read up on the matter and pick a direction that sounds rational.

ChunkyMonkey · 10-15-2004

i just need to change my brake pads...are all these steps neccessary? thanx in advance...piece