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Old 02-24-2004   #16 (permalink)
streetglower
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Quote:
Originally posted by flotsamm
Niiice thanks.


Say, about the brake disc grease, I'm assuming you mean anti-squeek compound? Also, I think that if the pads require you to compress the caliper piston in some so they'll fit, that you want to make sure that you clamp off the rubber brake line section with a soft style clamp. This way when you squeeze the caliper, you dont back-flush the brake fluid back into the system and flush any built up contanimants back in. I mention this since alot of people make this mistake when changing brakes. What happens is as your brake system gets old, the dirt starts to act like a seal around the various valves and pistons. This can mess up your master cylinder seals, proportion valve and some ABS components if your not careful. You might wanna mention that, up to you. Best way I found though is to clamp off the rubber section of the brake line with some soft vise-grips(or use a rag) and then crack the bleeder, then compress the caliper. Again this is only if you need to compress the caliper to get new pads/shoes on. If you dont do it this method, at a minimum take the brake resevior cap off and remove a small amount of fluid before you compress the caliper. This will keep the system from over flooding and spilling into the engine bay.

what do you mean by clamping off the rubber section of the brake line, then cracking the bleeder?


EDIT: BTW you might wanna mention that some peeps may need to bleed the brakes afterwards. I think those with ABS may need a different method also.. not sure.


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Old 02-24-2004   #17 (permalink)
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since that didnt work, what do you mean by clamping off the rubber section of the brake line, the crack the bleeder?
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Old 02-24-2004   #18 (permalink)
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If you look at your brake lines, there should be a rubber section that leads to the brake assembly. Its rubber so that it can move with the wheel. Using a soft clamp, clamp off the hose gently so no fluid can escape. Then open up the bleeder enough to allow the piston to be pushed in enough for the new pads to be inserted. Just be careful and make sure your rubber hose is in good shape(not brittle). When you crack the bleed and push the piston back have some rags handy to catch any fluid that might drip out. Becareful with brake fluid, it'll eat your paint off your car.
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Old 02-24-2004   #19 (permalink)
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So I dont have to remove the brake line from anywhere, right? All I have to do is clamp it so no brake fluid back flushes in it, right?
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Old 04-01-2004   #20 (permalink)
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how about just taking off the top bolt that holds the center of the calliper on and the one on the bottom as well. once you do this there is no need at all to take the calliper off. just swing down the center section of the caliper(make sure not to remove the bottom bolt completly)down. then all you have to do is pop in the pads and clamp down the cylinder with plyers with a flat surface attached(so not to damage it.) then tighten the 2 bolts on and pump the brakes. No need to bleed anything. or string anything up. BOOYA! TOOK ME 10 MIN TO DO FRONT PADS.
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Old 04-03-2004   #21 (permalink)
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You could do that. You don't have as much room to work though. Plus you should grease up the back of the brake pads with anti-squeel compound. If you do things the way you say, then it's hard to not get that anti-squeel compound all over everything.
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Old 04-03-2004   #22 (permalink)
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they don;t slide in they just snap right in so i didn;t get any on anything
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Old 04-03-2004   #23 (permalink)
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I know what you're saying, but I still prefer my way of doing it. Only one more bolt to take out and some effort to suspend the caliper. Then you can rotate the whole thing any way you like to get at it easier. At least for people that haven't done it before. It might be easier to remove the caliper just to get a better feel for where everything goes since you can rotate it freely and get a good look at everything.
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Old 04-05-2004   #24 (permalink)
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I didn't use anti squeek stuff... and havent had any problems...however, I LOVE MY NEW BRAKES!!!
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Old 05-02-2004   #25 (permalink)
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Ok, I am still figuring all of this out. So basically all I need to do is remove the 2 screws that are in blue, pull back that piece, then pull out the old pads, I am assuming they are easy to pull out, then I need something to push the piston back out, right. What is the tool called and where can I get one for and how much. Then put anti-squeek stuff on the back of the pads, install them and put the caliper back on and thats it? My only concern is with the brake fluid. I dont want to get air into there, but everyone says this is all too easy to do. I want to learn so I dont have to spend labor to get it done.
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Old 05-08-2004   #26 (permalink)
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Yeah, it's pretty easy. To push the piston back in just use a C-clamp or something like I used (like a Vise-grip).
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Old 05-09-2004   #27 (permalink)
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Ok, since I am going to be attempting to change my brake pads tomorrow, here is how I know to do it, please correct me if I am wrong. First I unscrew the lower bolt circled in blue, then I remove the upper bolt. Then I pull the caliper off of the rotor and suspend it with some string. Then I pull out the old pads. As I know it, they just slip out. Also I keep the shims that are behind the pads. Also before I pull out the pad closest to the car, I use that against the c-clamp when I push the piston back in. Then I replace that pad. When I replace the pads, I Put anti-squeal stuff on the back. After this, I just put the caliper back on, right. Now with bleeding the brakes, Do I need to bleed all 4 if I am only changing the front pads, or can I just bleed the front 2 brakes? Now basically I get a pan or something and place a hose over the bleeder, and then have someone depress the brake pedal, and then open the bleeder. Then keep repeating this process several times. While I am doing this, do I need to just rid of all of the brake fluid, or add new fluid while I am bleeding it? How do I know when no air are in the lines? Well, this is how I know it, if this is correct tell me, and if I am missing anything, let me know?
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Old 05-09-2004   #28 (permalink)
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You have changing the pads down. It's as easy as you describe it. Bleeding your brakes is not covered in this DIY. I still haven't done it myself, but I know the principle.

First off, you need to bleed all four brakes when you do bleed the brakes. However, changing pads does not require you to do so.

To do it you basically start out with the brake furthest away from the master cylinder. This is the rear passenger side in our car (I think?). Then the rear driver side. Then the front passenger side. Then the front driver side. The furthest one will take longer to do, etc.

What you do is have someone sit in the car. Then you have them depress the brake. Open the bleeder screw and let the fluid flow out (uh... squirt out). Then lock down the bleeder screw. Then have the person in the car release the brake. This will draw in new fluid from the reservior.

Now, you have to keep an eye on the reservior. Just keep on doing this until the reservior level drops. Then add fresh fluid to it. Keep at it until you can't add any more new fluid I guess... That's all I know.
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Old 05-09-2004   #29 (permalink)
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well I appreciate it. Also isnt there some auto shops that resurface rotors for free. I need to get them resurfaced cause I have heat spots on them.
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Old 05-09-2004   #30 (permalink)
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So basically before I bleed the brakes I take out as much fluid from the resovoir and then put new fluid in there. Then I start with one brake and bleed it and then add more fluid when it gets low. Then I do this 3 more times, then fill it again at the end. So I need to fill it after bleeding each brake.
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