Wheels,Tires & BrakesPost Wheel, Tire & Brake related modification information and/or questions here.
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what size are the hybrid rims, and whats the weight?
compared to my 14x5.5" steelies, how much do the hyrbid rims weigh? i have a chance to get 2 for 40 bucks, and i need 2 more rims anyway for my DR's so i figure these two are good, but i dont want them if they are too light because of traction issues (b4 u say blah blah a friend experienced this result)
oh and what width are they?
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Even if they did cause traction problems, correct me if I'm wrong, but lighter wheels equal less rotational mass to move thus making your car accelerate faster...
__________________ ...Holdin' it down, Oregon style bitches!
i think i herad they are 13.5 lbs so i might just go get them. either way i need 2 more.
and as to how they can cause traction issues? if they are too light they will spin too easy and do it. a friend of mine with a h22 in his eg hatch experienced this.
he has 24" tall drag radials, when mounted on his steel rims he was able to cut a 2.0 sixty foot (quick) and it wasnt too hard. when he bought new wheels that only weigh eight pounds, he spun too mcuh and the best he could ever get is a 2.2 sixty foot. this prob doesnt sound like alot to you but anyone who knows drag racing knows thats a big deal. but with 13lbs i think ill be fine.
is it really? because my car is turbo, genious.
bottom line is lighter wheel, spin easier. you would think it doesnt matter because of the basics of physics but it goes deeper in than the basics.
some of the most obvious variables would be, torque, diameter, width, weight of rotational mass, centering of that weight, tire composition, acceleration rate, unsprung weight. blah blah blah im sure theres tons. but what im trying to say is when you push something to its limits it will always act differently than you would have expected. and this is just an example.
quick reference. go out and deflate your tires to 12-15 psi. now casually daily drive it. it will feel sluggish and terribly deminish its performance. even slower off the line. but go drop the psi and launch it off the line and you will accelerate faster, and have better traction off the line giving better handling/managability.
I'm really just not buying this whole lighter wheels no traction thing. If you're trying to use a 5.5" rim and get good traction, you got your priorities ass backwards AND you're not using anywhere near the entire contact patch of the tire. You still have the entire weight of the front end pressing down on it, less 5-10 pounds from a lighter rim. You're not going to see an issue of 5-10 (if you get all technical about it, call it 20-40 given that unsprung weight acts as about 4 times sprung weight) lbs out of give or take 1600 sitting on those tires. The torque you push to the pavement is the same given the same tire diameter. There's SLIGHTLY less inertia due to the lighter weight, but the effect is minimal in comparison to the effect of the diameter (I=m*r^2).
Take a really light, 8 or 9" wide rim and strap a slick on it, I'm pretty sure you'll snap the axle before you break it loose.
I'm really just not buying this whole lighter wheels no traction thing. If you're trying to use a 5.5" rim and get good traction, you got your priorities ass backwards AND you're not using anywhere near the entire contact patch of the tire. You still have the entire weight of the front end pressing down on it, less 5-10 pounds from a lighter rim. You're not going to see an issue of 5-10 (if you get all technical about it, call it 20-40 given that unsprung weight acts as about 4 times sprung weight) lbs out of give or take 1600 sitting on those tires. The torque you push to the pavement is the same given the same tire diameter. There's SLIGHTLY less inertia due to the lighter weight, but the effect is minimal in comparison to the effect of the diameter (I=m*r^2).
Take a really light, 8 or 9" wide rim and strap a slick on it, I'm pretty sure you'll snap the axle before you break it loose.
first, with these tires on a 5.5" rim its measured at 8.3" across. with pressure down to 15ish it will allow the entire contact pacth to see pavement, so your incorrect. and no i am not doing it back asswards. first off, on street nights for ihra dragways, slicks are not allowed. only d.o.t. approved tires (like my DR's) and also yea getting a lighter weight wheel will be fine if i counteract it with a stickier tire like you said, getting slicks. but i need a combo to run drag radials, and lighter isnt always better, as my friend has proven.
and if i went and got 9" wide rims and tires my car would be slower because it doesnt have the power to get those bad boys turning quick enough and it would either snap an axle or cause my engine to really bog off the line. bigger and better isnt always the best route. you need to match everything on your car to the performance of the rest of the parts. i would expect you to know this.
and thats besides the costs of finding a tire that is 9inches wide and still small enough in diameter that i can get a small diameter tire so i wont trap in the low rpm's of a new gear. also that would eliminate driveability and cause rubbing soooo bad.
the only way i could see a heavier wheel making more traction is because the weight is causing more on the engine using more TQ to move the wheel.there for your losing some power ?. shrug i donno just dont make much sense to me.
__________________ 1991 240SX SE Fastback.
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yes but do you see what your saying? COMPENSATE
if he compensates by letting off the gas he will go slower. he will get traction, yes but if he has to let off with these rims and the other ones he doesnt have to, he will cut better sixty foots, the fact is that like i said, lighter is not always better, get into drag racign and relaly learn all the tricks they do here and there. alot is the opposite from what common knowledge and common sense would tell you to do.
and for the record he is a good driver, he really knows how to get this ting down the track
first, with these tires on a 5.5" rim its measured at 8.3" across. with pressure down to 15ish it will allow the entire contact pacth to see pavement, so your incorrect. and no i am not doing it back asswards. first off, on street nights for ihra dragways, slicks are not allowed. only d.o.t. approved tires (like my DR's) and also yea getting a lighter weight wheel will be fine if i counteract it with a stickier tire like you said, getting slicks. but i need a combo to run drag radials, and lighter isnt always better, as my friend has proven.
and if i went and got 9" wide rims and tires my car would be slower because it doesnt have the power to get those bad boys turning quick enough and it would either snap an axle or cause my engine to really bog off the line. bigger and better isnt always the best route. you need to match everything on your car to the performance of the rest of the parts. i would expect you to know this.
and thats besides the costs of finding a tire that is 9inches wide and still small enough in diameter that i can get a small diameter tire so i wont trap in the low rpm's of a new gear. also that would eliminate driveability and cause rubbing soooo bad.
Put those same size tires on a 7" rim and maybe you'll see my point. The straighter the sidewall is, the more rubber you're going to lay down flat and keep it there. So you are doing it ass backwards. Run the widest feasible rim the rules permit. The instant you hit the gas and the car rocks back, the tire starts lifting up and the edges start coming up, if the sidewalls were straight, the tire would be much more inclined to sit still rather than squirm around and start to bow up like it wants to on a skinny rim. PM zzyzx, ask him for the picture he has of the Azenis on 6.5" vs 7' wide rims. Its a huge difference in contact patch, even with a 1/2" difference.
Further... as I've often learned, the gas is not an on/off switch. Regardless of if its a straight road or curved, you're only going as fast as the traction you've got. Less rotating mass also requires less power to get rolling.... basically you can do 80-90% and match what you were doing with the heavier rim. The other thing is once you can get yourself to get a lighter rim to hook up, if that is actually an issue but beside the point, once that thing gets out of the hole and traction becomes a non-issue because the car is moving.... you will gain time due to the decreased rotating mass.
you got it 
