Drums--->Discs SPELLED OUT
#122
Re: Drums--->Discs SPELLED OUT
HI I'm came from quebec canada. and i have em2 dx 2003. If i understand well I can take acura el rear disk brake and it will be easy. I don't have abs on my dx is't a problem? or a can take all part on acura el.
I kown my english is no very good most of the time a speak in french.
Thanks for all
Alex
I kown my english is no very good most of the time a speak in french.
Thanks for all
Alex
#123
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I guess you misunderstood.
It IS possible to do it. there are no issues with using discs. But its almost impossible to convert the car to ABS.
It IS possible to do it. there are no issues with using discs. But its almost impossible to convert the car to ABS.
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what is it that you need so your rear doesnt lock up? cuz i plan on doing this. im already getting the whole setup. knuckles and hubs and w.e but i heard you need somehing so the rears dont lock up ?
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if anything, a new proportional valve. You'll probably not really need it that much if you're swapping. Disc brakes are actually less susceptible to lockup than drums.
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I know this question has been asked God knows how many times..... (no it doesn't involve asking about what needs to be done) I own an 05 LX and really want to do this swap, but as far as a proportioning valve goes do I need to purchase one? Also would it be better if I swapped the master cylinder for an EX one? Any and all information would be greatly appreciated. Thanks a bunch.
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the proportioning valve gives the pistons the need pressure for them to compress the pads onto the rotors from what ive been told. u need one form an si or dc5. using an si brake booster or dc5 would be much better. i dont even think ex and lx master cylinders are different...idk maybe
#131
Re: Drums--->Discs SPELLED OUT
I have a question for anyone that may know. ATM I have a 2001 'Vic EX 4dr. I got most (calipers, knuckle, hub, pads) from my local Junkyard, then went out and bought myself the lines (e-brake, brake) and misc. bolts from hondaautomotiveparts and I have a really quick question.
The calipers I bought came with the pads, which had a coating of rust on 'em, but since they looked damn near brand new I decided to keep 'em. When I go to install the pads the outside seems to rub on the rotor. When you rotate the tire you can hear a rubbing noise, but it doesn't seem to interfere with the movement of the tire. Do you think it may be caused by the coating of rust on the pad?? or is this something I need to look into and get new pads??
Question #2. I bought the e-brake cables for a '03 SI. When I go to hook 'em up, the passenger side goes in just fine, no problems, yet the driver side BARELY fits in the car (needs to be pulled in by a vise grip to get the outside metal housing inside the car) and when its hooked up to the pivot, the pivot goes on a slant (angles down on the driver, and goes up about 1/2-1 inch on the passenger). does this seem right ot any of you?? or should I go with RSX driver side E-brake?? The only thing I worried about is it the being TOO long on the driver side and doing the same thing, but this time with passenger side.
If anyone knows, drop me a post.
The calipers I bought came with the pads, which had a coating of rust on 'em, but since they looked damn near brand new I decided to keep 'em. When I go to install the pads the outside seems to rub on the rotor. When you rotate the tire you can hear a rubbing noise, but it doesn't seem to interfere with the movement of the tire. Do you think it may be caused by the coating of rust on the pad?? or is this something I need to look into and get new pads??
Question #2. I bought the e-brake cables for a '03 SI. When I go to hook 'em up, the passenger side goes in just fine, no problems, yet the driver side BARELY fits in the car (needs to be pulled in by a vise grip to get the outside metal housing inside the car) and when its hooked up to the pivot, the pivot goes on a slant (angles down on the driver, and goes up about 1/2-1 inch on the passenger). does this seem right ot any of you?? or should I go with RSX driver side E-brake?? The only thing I worried about is it the being TOO long on the driver side and doing the same thing, but this time with passenger side.
If anyone knows, drop me a post.
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I have a question for anyone that may know. ATM I have a 2001 'Vic EX 4dr. I got most (calipers, knuckle, hub, pads) from my local Junkyard, then went out and bought myself the lines (e-brake, brake) and misc. bolts from hondaautomotiveparts and I have a really quick question.
The calipers I bought came with the pads, which had a coating of rust on 'em, but since they looked damn near brand new I decided to keep 'em. When I go to install the pads the outside seems to rub on the rotor. When you rotate the tire you can hear a rubbing noise, but it doesn't seem to interfere with the movement of the tire. Do you think it may be caused by the coating of rust on the pad?? or is this something I need to look into and get new pads??
Question #2. I bought the e-brake cables for a '03 SI. When I go to hook 'em up, the passenger side goes in just fine, no problems, yet the driver side BARELY fits in the car (needs to be pulled in by a vise grip to get the outside metal housing inside the car) and when its hooked up to the pivot, the pivot goes on a slant (angles down on the driver, and goes up about 1/2-1 inch on the passenger). does this seem right ot any of you?? or should I go with RSX driver side E-brake?? The only thing I worried about is it the being TOO long on the driver side and doing the same thing, but this time with passenger side.
If anyone knows, drop me a post.
The calipers I bought came with the pads, which had a coating of rust on 'em, but since they looked damn near brand new I decided to keep 'em. When I go to install the pads the outside seems to rub on the rotor. When you rotate the tire you can hear a rubbing noise, but it doesn't seem to interfere with the movement of the tire. Do you think it may be caused by the coating of rust on the pad?? or is this something I need to look into and get new pads??
Question #2. I bought the e-brake cables for a '03 SI. When I go to hook 'em up, the passenger side goes in just fine, no problems, yet the driver side BARELY fits in the car (needs to be pulled in by a vise grip to get the outside metal housing inside the car) and when its hooked up to the pivot, the pivot goes on a slant (angles down on the driver, and goes up about 1/2-1 inch on the passenger). does this seem right ot any of you?? or should I go with RSX driver side E-brake?? The only thing I worried about is it the being TOO long on the driver side and doing the same thing, but this time with passenger side.
If anyone knows, drop me a post.
well i just put mine on n i just did the back and they look so sexy, i used the rsx base 5 lug setup, and both of them was short, i had to screw all the brackets except of the last one that is cloest to the e-break of the car on both sides i think am just going to find some where where i can screw it, for your brake pads mines did make a nosie when i was turnin the tire but after that while i was driving i didnt, but i used brand new brake pads and the used rotor that came with it, so if i was u i would just get new ones their only $20
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I need help!!! I followed all the steps outline here by boilermaker and for the life of me i cannot seem to get the cam lock bolt out...the rear lower bolt used for alignment. I damn near mushroomed the damn bolt and it wont budge. Any suggestions?? Thanks in advance
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Hey guys I just got a 03 civic DX es1 about a month ago (fyi my first car). Well since January I've been reading post after post on this site and i'm loving it. Well my first mod is going to be the disk bake conversion. It seems pretty straigh forward but i have a few question (like any noob woul).
1.) I know the si break line were recommanded but would the EL lines work as well.
2.) does anyone recommend i change the master cyl., prop valve, and booster like one would for the 6 gen civics? If yes/no why?
Thanks for your help and sorry if these questions have been asked before i jst finished reading this entire thread and i can't remember
1.) I know the si break line were recommanded but would the EL lines work as well.
2.) does anyone recommend i change the master cyl., prop valve, and booster like one would for the 6 gen civics? If yes/no why?
Thanks for your help and sorry if these questions have been asked before i jst finished reading this entire thread and i can't remember
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Can anyone post some pix of what the knuckles themselves look like? I'm interested in the differences between the disc knuckles and the drum knuckles.
Before I even found this forum, I was thinking about 02-03 Si rear brakes for my 04 LX Coupe. But the way I was thinking was different than the swap described. My idea was to buy a new set of rotors, pads, and calipers (all of which are wear items, presumably available at any auto parts store in new or rebuilt form) plus perhaps the handbrake cables and maybe some new brake lines. Then I'd remove the drum and the rest of the drum brake assembly, including the backing plate which bolts onto the knuckle. Then I'd figure out how to mount the calipers onto that knuckle -- making an adapter if necessary.
If it works at all, it should be cheaper and easier than replacing the entire knuckle along with the hub. And you end up with all new/rebuilt parts rather than junkyard stuff.
If I could talk an Si owner into letting me look over his rear brakes, I could probably figure out whether this will work. Without that, though, I'd probably have to buy a rotor and a caliper and try it, which makes for an expensive experiment if it doesn't work.
Before I even found this forum, I was thinking about 02-03 Si rear brakes for my 04 LX Coupe. But the way I was thinking was different than the swap described. My idea was to buy a new set of rotors, pads, and calipers (all of which are wear items, presumably available at any auto parts store in new or rebuilt form) plus perhaps the handbrake cables and maybe some new brake lines. Then I'd remove the drum and the rest of the drum brake assembly, including the backing plate which bolts onto the knuckle. Then I'd figure out how to mount the calipers onto that knuckle -- making an adapter if necessary.
If it works at all, it should be cheaper and easier than replacing the entire knuckle along with the hub. And you end up with all new/rebuilt parts rather than junkyard stuff.
If I could talk an Si owner into letting me look over his rear brakes, I could probably figure out whether this will work. Without that, though, I'd probably have to buy a rotor and a caliper and try it, which makes for an expensive experiment if it doesn't work.
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2) a new MC is not necessary but u will benefit if it is from an ep3 or dc5. yes u need an ep3 or dc5 proportioning valve if u dont have abs. and brake booster and MC are the same thing to my knowledge.
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Can anyone post some pix of what the knuckles themselves look like? I'm interested in the differences between the disc knuckles and the drum knuckles.
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Yeah, I figured that was the difference -- although it wouldn't have surprised me too much if Honda had found a way to use the same mounting lugs for both disc and drum brakes, therefore only having one design knuckle.
You guys are aware, I presume, that replacing that knuckle really means you should have a 4-wheel alignment after this retrofit? Sure, it might be good enough to just put the adjuster back where it was with the other knuckle -- but that's putting more trust in the tolerances of the parts than Honda puts in them -- they provide the adjustment specifically to deal with such tolerances!
Yikes! Obviously I should have priced those calipers!
You don't suppose they'd accept a set of drum brakes for the core charge, do you?
You guys are aware, I presume, that replacing that knuckle really means you should have a 4-wheel alignment after this retrofit? Sure, it might be good enough to just put the adjuster back where it was with the other knuckle -- but that's putting more trust in the tolerances of the parts than Honda puts in them -- they provide the adjustment specifically to deal with such tolerances!
Calipers with no cores to return would meet the roughly $250 you can buy an entire set of Si rear assemblies for.
You don't suppose they'd accept a set of drum brakes for the core charge, do you?
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OK, here's another dumb question: If you can't find a set of 2002-03 Si brakes but you can find brakes from a 2004, can you install the 2004 brake assemblies and then swap your original 4-lug hubs back onto the car (disassemble the bearings, slide one off, slide the other on, reassemble the bearings) and then purchase a pair of new rotors for a 2002-03 at the auto parts store and install them?
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Well, to start with, you can't do a search unless you know the name of what it is you're searching for. I am starting to gather that what I'm looking for is called an "ep3" -- but I have no idea where that terminology comes from. I call a Honda Civic Si a "Honda Civic Si". And I can't seem to find a glossary on this site. And these code names are not mentioned in the FAQ.
As far as reading goes, according to the counter there have been 59,287 threads on the Wheels, Tires and Brakes sub-forum of the 7th gen Honda alone. Just how much reading do you expect a newbie to do?
As far as reading goes, according to the counter there have been 59,287 threads on the Wheels, Tires and Brakes sub-forum of the 7th gen Honda alone. Just how much reading do you expect a newbie to do?
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no they wont take drums for a caliper core charge. They want a caliper back so they can refurb it and sell it again.
You are making this so much more complicated than it needs to be. Any competent junk yard ought to be able to find a totalled EP3 and yank the the knuckles off. Mixing parts from this and that is just a futile exercise in overthinking something simple. I wouldnt trust any of the drum parts to be compatable with disc parts, including the hub.
You are making this so much more complicated than it needs to be. Any competent junk yard ought to be able to find a totalled EP3 and yank the the knuckles off. Mixing parts from this and that is just a futile exercise in overthinking something simple. I wouldnt trust any of the drum parts to be compatable with disc parts, including the hub.
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OK, keeping in mind that I haven't done this myself yet, but looking at your picture and my car, my guess is that what you're looking at isn't a nut, it's an adjuster. You already have the nut off in the picture. Try just tapping the bolt out!
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Hey everyone I finally found all the parts I need for this conversion. Unfortunately the only set I was able to find were from an 01 Acura EL. Everything seems to be in good condition, just a bit of surface rust here and there (but that’s to be expected). So for the last 3 days I’ve been trying to disassemble them so I can remove the rust, add new disks, pads and a good coat of paint. Unfortunately almost every single bolt and nut seem to be stuck. I'm assuming it’s the rust; so I've been spraying a bit of Liquid wrench everyday since, but no luck, only the sensor came off with out little or no effort.
Anyone have any ideas on how I can disassemble it without breaking anything or the loss of life
Thanks in advance.
Anyone have any ideas on how I can disassemble it without breaking anything or the loss of life
Thanks in advance.
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