Wheels,Tires & BrakesPost Wheel, Tire & Brake related modification information and/or questions here.
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i was a little discouraged with the fact that lx/dx owners cant really benefit from this swap, and for a while I was thinking of not going through with it. Until I looked around, a friend of mine pointed out that there are several shops out there that can create custom brake proportioning pieces, I will definately be looking into that. So sexcivic (banned) is coming to help me do it this week.
__________________
sig by speedfoos The DX resource site.
-2002 SSM EM2 - D17A1/A2 hybrid turbo(vtec, non-egr, steel oil pan, Hondata managed) 240 fwhp, 210 lb/ft tq @ 9.5 psi
-1991 MK3 Toyota Supra turbo (full cage, track setup) TBA
-2008 Honda NPS50 Ruckus - Stock 5 rwhp
^^no kidding man. The difference is night and day. They bite really nicely. Im extremely happy.
Just finished my swap...
The whole thing took about 4 hours between two of us, I ran into a clogged valve and a seized cam bolt, which i had to buy from honda...they charged way too much. Not only did i swap out the brakes, but i redid my lower control arms to have factory sway bar mounts. We decided it would be easiest to take the rear suspension out as a unit, starting with the coilovers, then the bolt at the upper control arm, the brake lines, e-brake cable, and finally with the support of the oem jack underneath, the lower control arm. Once the whole assembly was out, it was just a matter of mocking it up with the new control arms, the brakes, and the shock and re-installing it all as a unit. Id recommend starting with the right side of the car first like the DIY says, this way you can attach the LCA to the car and run the e-brake cable up and then button it up to the belly of the car and then continue on with the soft brake lines and the upper control arm. I used Ep3 cables, and everything matched up perfectly except one of the brackets on the drivers side e-brake cable. All you have to do is unclamp it a little, attach the cable to the handle and move the bracket and bend it in place. Works like a charm.
cliffs:
drum brakes + me =
disc brakes + me =
install is straight forward, only hard part is ebrake cables (which wasnt hard at all)
__________________
sig by speedfoos The DX resource site.
-2002 SSM EM2 - D17A1/A2 hybrid turbo(vtec, non-egr, steel oil pan, Hondata managed) 240 fwhp, 210 lb/ft tq @ 9.5 psi
-1991 MK3 Toyota Supra turbo (full cage, track setup) TBA
-2008 Honda NPS50 Ruckus - Stock 5 rwhp
Last edited by skipbarber; 08-03-2005 at 11:23 PM.
I just got done doing this swap today. Heres some key points from my experience:
I used DC5 ebrake cables because they were a tad longer, but it didnt end up making much of a difference when bolting the line to the ebrake handle. Its still a pain. Also the cables guides did bolt up to factory spots, its just that there is some slack towards the wheel - nothing a 12" zip didnt solve.
I used Goodridge SS lines which bolted straight up. These lines are high quality, but aren't really visually noticable. Im going to mount the front lines tomorrow.
I also did not remove the stock wheel sensors from the car. I just removed the Sis and put the stockers on once the hub was mounted up. A small flat head and hammer helped to pop em out.
Before mounting the hubs, I removed the bleed valve from each caliper and mounted the ss lines. I then filled the lines and caliper with a small squeeze bottle to fill everything, then closed the valve. The ss lines had a plug on each end so fluid did not spill.
The 10mm bolt on the factory hard line is brass. It will strip. Grab some vice grips and clamp on to the bolt. Steady, firm pressure in the right direction will pop it loose.
That's about it. If i think of something ill post it. PM me if you have some ?'s...Ill be posting new pics of the ride including the swap probably sometime next week. Remember, an 18" breaker bar is your best friend
__________________ 2008 ASM Si Sedan w/ Navi and Summer Tires
i wonder if people notice? "hey that civic has rear disc"
Unless you know what you're looking at, it goes unnoticed. The rim shadows the rotor over enough (since the rotor is so small), that you really can see it unless you have a rim with a very small diameter hub.
but what if you want to go big break kit in the back and front? do you only get the dc5 cables, ep3 spindles? and then get the ep3 brembo big brake kit or power slot.
i dont think it would matter, since those kits are designed under the assumption that it is a straight swap, so the engineers know to make the mounting points for lines/cables the same as stock, or provide a new part. and IMO, ep3 cables are more than enough.
sweeteli99:
__________________
sig by speedfoos The DX resource site.
-2002 SSM EM2 - D17A1/A2 hybrid turbo(vtec, non-egr, steel oil pan, Hondata managed) 240 fwhp, 210 lb/ft tq @ 9.5 psi
-1991 MK3 Toyota Supra turbo (full cage, track setup) TBA
-2008 Honda NPS50 Ruckus - Stock 5 rwhp
time consuming... 
