Drums--->Discs SPELLED OUT
time consuming... 
07-23-2005
#35
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i was a little discouraged with the fact that lx/dx owners cant really benefit from this swap, and for a while I was thinking of not going through with it. Until I looked around, a friend of mine pointed out that there are several shops out there that can create custom brake proportioning pieces, I will definately be looking into that. So sexcivic (banned) is coming to help me do it this week.
08-03-2005
#37
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Rep Power: 306 ^^no kidding man. The difference is night and day. They bite really nicely. Im extremely happy.
Just finished my swap...
The whole thing took about 4 hours between two of us, I ran into a clogged valve and a seized cam bolt, which i had to buy from honda...they charged way too much. Not only did i swap out the brakes, but i redid my lower control arms to have factory sway bar mounts. We decided it would be easiest to take the rear suspension out as a unit, starting with the coilovers, then the bolt at the upper control arm, the brake lines, e-brake cable, and finally with the support of the oem jack underneath, the lower control arm. Once the whole assembly was out, it was just a matter of mocking it up with the new control arms, the brakes, and the shock and re-installing it all as a unit. Id recommend starting with the right side of the car first like the DIY says, this way you can attach the LCA to the car and run the e-brake cable up and then button it up to the belly of the car and then continue on with the soft brake lines and the upper control arm. I used Ep3 cables, and everything matched up perfectly except one of the brackets on the drivers side e-brake cable. All you have to do is unclamp it a little, attach the cable to the handle and move the bracket and bend it in place. Works like a charm.
cliffs:
drum brakes + me =
disc brakes + me =
install is straight forward, only hard part is ebrake cables (which wasnt hard at all)
Just finished my swap...
The whole thing took about 4 hours between two of us, I ran into a clogged valve and a seized cam bolt, which i had to buy from honda...they charged way too much. Not only did i swap out the brakes, but i redid my lower control arms to have factory sway bar mounts. We decided it would be easiest to take the rear suspension out as a unit, starting with the coilovers, then the bolt at the upper control arm, the brake lines, e-brake cable, and finally with the support of the oem jack underneath, the lower control arm. Once the whole assembly was out, it was just a matter of mocking it up with the new control arms, the brakes, and the shock and re-installing it all as a unit. Id recommend starting with the right side of the car first like the DIY says, this way you can attach the LCA to the car and run the e-brake cable up and then button it up to the belly of the car and then continue on with the soft brake lines and the upper control arm. I used Ep3 cables, and everything matched up perfectly except one of the brackets on the drivers side e-brake cable. All you have to do is unclamp it a little, attach the cable to the handle and move the bracket and bend it in place. Works like a charm.
cliffs:
drum brakes + me =
disc brakes + me =
install is straight forward, only hard part is ebrake cables (which wasnt hard at all)
Last edited by skipbarber; 08-03-2005 at 10:23 PM.
08-04-2005
#39
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Rep Power: 349 I just got done doing this swap today. Heres some key points from my experience:
I used DC5 ebrake cables because they were a tad longer, but it didnt end up making much of a difference when bolting the line to the ebrake handle. Its still a pain. Also the cables guides did bolt up to factory spots, its just that there is some slack towards the wheel - nothing a 12" zip didnt solve.
I used Goodridge SS lines which bolted straight up. These lines are high quality, but aren't really visually noticable. Im going to mount the front lines tomorrow.
I also did not remove the stock wheel sensors from the car. I just removed the Sis and put the stockers on once the hub was mounted up. A small flat head and hammer helped to pop em out.
Before mounting the hubs, I removed the bleed valve from each caliper and mounted the ss lines. I then filled the lines and caliper with a small squeeze bottle to fill everything, then closed the valve. The ss lines had a plug on each end so fluid did not spill.
The 10mm bolt on the factory hard line is brass. It will strip. Grab some vice grips and clamp on to the bolt. Steady, firm pressure in the right direction will pop it loose.
That's about it. If i think of something ill post it. PM me if you have some ?'s...Ill be posting new pics of the ride including the swap probably sometime next week. Remember, an 18" breaker bar is your best friend
I used DC5 ebrake cables because they were a tad longer, but it didnt end up making much of a difference when bolting the line to the ebrake handle. Its still a pain. Also the cables guides did bolt up to factory spots, its just that there is some slack towards the wheel - nothing a 12" zip didnt solve.
I used Goodridge SS lines which bolted straight up. These lines are high quality, but aren't really visually noticable. Im going to mount the front lines tomorrow.
I also did not remove the stock wheel sensors from the car. I just removed the Sis and put the stockers on once the hub was mounted up. A small flat head and hammer helped to pop em out.
Before mounting the hubs, I removed the bleed valve from each caliper and mounted the ss lines. I then filled the lines and caliper with a small squeeze bottle to fill everything, then closed the valve. The ss lines had a plug on each end so fluid did not spill.
The 10mm bolt on the factory hard line is brass. It will strip. Grab some vice grips and clamp on to the bolt. Steady, firm pressure in the right direction will pop it loose.
That's about it. If i think of something ill post it. PM me if you have some ?'s...Ill be posting new pics of the ride including the swap probably sometime next week. Remember, an 18" breaker bar is your best friend
08-04-2005
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Originally Posted by sweeteli99
i want to see pics of your setup?
i wonder if people notice? "hey that civic has rear disc"
i wonder if people notice? "hey that civic has rear disc"
08-04-2005
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Rep Power: 0 but what if you want to go big break kit in the back and front? do you only get the dc5 cables, ep3 spindles? and then get the ep3 brembo big brake kit or power slot.
08-04-2005
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Rep Power: 306 i dont think it would matter, since those kits are designed under the assumption that it is a straight swap, so the engineers know to make the mounting points for lines/cables the same as stock, or provide a new part. and IMO, ep3 cables are more than enough.
sweeteli99:
sweeteli99:
08-05-2005
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Originally Posted by CIVIC X3
but what if you want to go big break kit in the back and front? do you only get the dc5 cables, ep3 spindles? and then get the ep3 brembo big brake kit or power slot.
ill post a few pics in this thread maybe this weekend.
08-05-2005
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Rep Power: 0 do you know a website site i can go to get the SSBC disc swap? damn i really want to do the swap but not sure about the hand brake cable.
Last edited by CIVIC X3; 04-29-2006 at 01:47 AM.
08-05-2005
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Originally Posted by skipbarber
i dont think it would matter, since those kits are designed under the assumption that it is a straight swap, so the engineers know to make the mounting points for lines/cables the same as stock, or provide a new part. and IMO, ep3 cables are more than enough.
sweeteli99:
sweeteli99:
get big brake kit from an ep3, their fronts is the same as ours, and so is the rears (now that you have rear disc). everything should line up, since basically your rear suspension is now the same as an ep3, all cables, etc.
08-05-2005
#49
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Rep Power: 399 I think the SSBC kit says you already need the discs. Its a size upgrade. The drum knuckles don't have any attachment points for calipers, the hubs are different (you can't mount a disc to it, meaning you'd need the knuckles, hubs and bearings along with everything disc relatedl. There's no way they can sell all that for $700.
08-07-2005
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Rear discs, Hawk Pads, Goodridge SS lines, B&Gs - don't mind the rust from the wash.
08-07-2005
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Originally Posted by blouisgod
Rear discs, Hawk Pads, Goodridge SS lines, B&Gs - don't mind the rust from the wash.
08-08-2005
#53
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Rep Power: 349 ^ I haven't really gotten on them to hard. SO far, braking in the city is 1000x better than stock, prolly cause Im actually using rear brakes now. The pedal is really firm - the ss lines and repetitive bleeding paid off. I'll let you know once i slam on em'.
08-18-2005
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Rep Power: 0 thats awesome! I was pretty much never going to do this mod because my rims cost $1300.00, and I thought to go rear disc you were forced to go 5 lug!!! Boilermaker, please PM me asap if you know of a junkyard selling the parts to do this!
08-29-2005
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Rep Power: 0 fastbrakes.com is making a kit for the o1 civic ex that will be a direct bolt on rear disc brake conversion, and will include larger rotors for around $900.00. They are shooting for a Sept. release- or so they tell me...........
11-11-2005
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Rep Power: 231 hey guys i just got my ep rear discs today. some questions about the swap. The people at the junk yard cut the brake sensor lines, soo.... (1) can i use the ones that are currently on my drums instead? (2) is the tiny little bottle for the rear brake fluid enough for the discs? (3) rotors are rusted, should i simple use sand paper and just sand them down? (4) any warning signs i should take notice of after install? (5) list of difficulties i should take note of when installing? as in "what should i do before i do that". thats about it haha
11-11-2005
#59
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Rep Power: 306 1) yes
2) no, you should thoroughly flush your system
3) no, once installed and you start driving, take it easy and within 1-2 days they should look/feel normal. Mine were pretty bad.
4) yes, if you can't stop, you did it wrong.
5) no, it is a straight forward install. Be sure to check and recheck any and all bolts you removed.
2) no, you should thoroughly flush your system
3) no, once installed and you start driving, take it easy and within 1-2 days they should look/feel normal. Mine were pretty bad.
4) yes, if you can't stop, you did it wrong.
5) no, it is a straight forward install. Be sure to check and recheck any and all bolts you removed.
