Wheels,Tires & BrakesPost Wheel, Tire & Brake related modification information and/or questions here.
Welcome to civicforums.com!
Welcome to civicforums.com.
You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to start new topics, reply to conversations, privately message other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join civicforums.com today!
Just checked my rear brakes and they're still good. What do you guys use to clean the brake dust off?
My Honda dealership is recomending that they "Service front and rear brakes". What is there to service since the front pads/discs and rear shoes/drum are good?
Are they trying to charge me money just to clean the brake dust off?
To remove this ad, register today for free or log in if already registered!
Sponsored Links
To avoid seeing this ad in our forum please register at CivicForums.com
By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features.
Great Diy Just What I Needed. I Frucked Them Up And Needed A Diy Savedme Like 10 Min<33
Quote:
Originally Posted by stock
Just checked my rear brakes and they're still good. What do you guys use to clean the brake dust off?
My Honda dealership is recomending that they "Service front and rear brakes". What is there to service since the front pads/discs and rear shoes/drum are good?
Are they trying to charge me money just to clean the brake dust off?
"STEALERSHIP...." ANSWER.....YES SIR THEY ARE
__________________
Last edited by boxcarracer; 06-12-2006 at 04:09 AM.
Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Just checked my rear brakes and they're still good. What do you guys use to clean the brake dust off?
Use a vaccum cleaner or other suction device that captures the dust. DO NOT blow it away with compressed air. You don't want the dust airborne, its quite harmful to your lungs despite it being asbestos free.
I'm done with one wheel, going to bed and will do the second tomorrow.
FYI, for those of you doing wheel cylinders too, to get the 2nd screw that holds the cylinder located (conveniently) right in front of the shock tower where you have no working clearance, you need to loosen the 4 14mm bolts holding the wheel backing plate. Use wd-40. The shit broke a 14mm wrench from harbor freight when i forgot the wd-40. Cheap chinese crap, yes, but i want all to learn from my mistakes :-)
As far as the springs go, I did it by hooking the long top spring up FIRST. I then opened the bleeder screw on my wheel cylinder and pushed the pistons in, letting excess fluid drip out to a container. Installed the shoes on either side, with the adjusting rod broken into two parts... the first part i had hooked into the parking brake / bitch-to-get-off U-clop shoe when I installed it. The "short" part that goes with the self adjuster I installed after getting everything "hanging" in place. The next to last thing I did was to spring up the self-adjuster and get that in place. Last was the short bottom clip on the shoe.
I also did my valve clearance today, but one of the bolts broke off into the head when i was putting the valve cover back on (friggin wrench was set at 6lbs, spec is 7.2, CRACK!). Nobody stocks the part, so screw it for a couple weeks. Anybody have that happen to them before? I'm assuming I need to get an ez-out from sears or something and drill the center of the stuck part out so I can loosen it.
"If it's so essential, ask yourself why you've been able to live without it before now."
Try doing something nice for a total stranger, then look back at your car. Notice that the good feeling you get from helping lasts all day, but you constantly have to put stuff on your car to feel better.
Thank you, thank you, for all the info here lord, i was gonna ask how to bleed the brakes cuz i just changed the !gnikcuF shoes (my next car would all be disc brakes dangit!) and my brakes are spongy but that link also answered my question,lol.
So when you go to pound the old drum off doesn't it get hung up on the brake shoes? Don't you need to release the self adjuster so that the drum slides over and off of the brake shoes? I'm thinking that as the shoes wear a trough into the drum and wont slide off. Is that a problem?
^Depending on your drums, sometimes you can just grab them and twist them side to side and they'll pop off. If you have to bang them, hit on the outer part of the drum in between two studs about 2-4 times and rotate to the next pair of studs. There's no getting hanged on the shoes. Disassembly is easy, reassembly is the PITA
Damn...spent about 3 hours on this. I'm seriously gonna consider just taking it in next time. But my '05 is at 47k, so I'm thinking the next time it gets done I'm just opting for the disc conversion.
Thanks for the DIY though - clear enough that a newbie like me was able to give it a go!
These clips hold the shoes in place. With the needle nose pilers and a screwdriver, depress the spring and turn the pin that holds the shoes in place. There's one per shoe.
===============================================
naughton asciisol
wheels are probably the hardest part of your car. Break dust is a mixture of carbon fibres, metal filings and adhesive residues I suggest you to use low dust break pads and fit dust shields these sit between the rim and the hub.
__________________________________________________ _____
I'll be honest it took me three hours to do this today. 2.5 for one and thirty minutes for the other. What a freaking pain in the ass getting that top spring on/off. Unfortunately on the first one I did I punctured a small hole in the boot of the cyclinder while getting that top spring off so I think I need a new cylinder as well as to bleed my brakes.
Nice tutoiral. I just did mine yesterday. I'm a bit sore today in the fingers. The top springs and clip holding the ebrake lever can be tough.
On the ground, I first assembled both shoes with e-brake lever, adjuster lever, clevis adjuster rod, and top spring and then put that onto the hub. Then added the adustment spring and bottom spring. First time I ever did drums. I know I need to bleed at least one side because I hit the piston and it came out too far and boot popped off and leaked a bit. But hey, first time for everything. I also used the Honda Repair manual which was a big help. I was suprised to notice that all four brake shoes are identical.
OP: I don't know if anyone noticed, but one of your photos shows the ebrake lever on backwards.
I did it. . I can see how once you've done it once you can do it quickly the 2nd time. The first side is going to be a learning experience, but the other side is smooth. .
Those clips can be a pain and the top spring is a pain, but other than that. . It's not bad.
Definately bleed the system, especially if you pop the piston out like I did repeatedely on the 1st side.
All in all it was a PITA, but not the worst thing to do. . They were definately due for changing, but they weren't as bad as I thought for having 105k on the car and never changed.
Since I'm a glutton for punishment, I'm doing the timing belt next weekend!
__________________ - Stay in front, that way you don't have to worry about passing anyone.