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Old 02-11-2005   #1 (permalink)
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torque of caliper bolts?

Well, I might be attempting to change the front pads on my g/f's 03 EX coupe with the help from Grey's DIY, and http://members.fortunecity.com/4jacks/brakes.html. Just a few questions though...

If the rotors are perfectly smooth, with no ridges, is resurfacing neccessary?

What is the torque specs of the bolts circled in red and blue?

Click the image to open in full size.

Also, I found a Honda dealer that will change just the pads for $99. Good deal? If the rotors need resurfaced, it is another $90. A closer Honda dealer will install pads and resurface rotors for $167.02. Just some other options, if I decide not to do it...
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Old 02-11-2005   #2 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thoughthard
Well, I might be attempting to change the front pads on my g/f's 03 EX coupe with the help from Grey's DIY, and http://members.fortunecity.com/4jacks/brakes.html. Just a few questions though...

If the rotors are perfectly smooth, with no ridges, is resurfacing neccessary?

What is the torque specs of the bolts circled in red and blue?

Click the image to open in full size.

Also, I found a Honda dealer that will change just the pads for $99. Good deal? If the rotors need resurfaced, it is another $90. A closer Honda dealer will install pads and resurface rotors for $167.02. Just some other options, if I decide not to do it...
the torque on the red circled bolts is 25 lbf.ft and the ones in blue are 79.6 lbf.ft. Just get some performance pads and rotors and do it yourself. It is really easy.
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just got pulled over the other day for having JDM yellow headlights, the cop told me it was illegal to have yellow lights, only white, any comments on this. i was just sittin in my slab with trunk poppin and my candy paint drippin off my doors.
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Old 02-11-2005   #3 (permalink)
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Thanks. Just double checking before I attempt the job. I found 125 ft-lbs. somewhere else, but that sounded a bit extreme.
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Old 02-11-2005   #4 (permalink)
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125 is the correct torque. Thats what it says on the back of the brembo box as well. Crank them on.
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Old 02-11-2005   #5 (permalink)
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Hmmm...

So it is 125 for all four bolts?
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Old 02-11-2005   #6 (permalink)
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The 2 that hold the caliper to the hub are 125. The slider bolts, I'm not sure.
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Old 02-11-2005   #7 (permalink)
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Well, two down, two to go...
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Old 02-12-2005   #8 (permalink)
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125 lb ft of torque. Damn, I didn't think it was that much.

Do we have a FAQ on this website that show torque specs for certain bolts on our cars. If not, I think someone or some people should compiled one.

OT: I have a neuspeed strut bar, what is the torque spec on the bolts I tighten down??

I read somewhere 33 lb ft of torque. I'm not sure though.
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Old 02-12-2005   #9 (permalink)
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and... what about if the rotors are perfectly smooth, with no ridges, is resurfacing neccessary?
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Old 02-12-2005   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boilermaker1
125 is the correct torque. Thats what it says on the back of the brembo box as well. Crank them on.
yes that is too much. From the service manaul it says 79.6 lbf.ft
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just got pulled over the other day for having JDM yellow headlights, the cop told me it was illegal to have yellow lights, only white, any comments on this. i was just sittin in my slab with trunk poppin and my candy paint drippin off my doors.
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Old 02-12-2005   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thoughthard
and... what about if the rotors are perfectly smooth, with no ridges, is resurfacing neccessary?
no it is not necessary. But if you have stock rotors, then I would upgrade to brembo blanks.
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hah yes the K series will make your car fly.
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just got pulled over the other day for having JDM yellow headlights, the cop told me it was illegal to have yellow lights, only white, any comments on this. i was just sittin in my slab with trunk poppin and my candy paint drippin off my doors.
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Old 02-12-2005   #12 (permalink)
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When I replaced the pads...

When I replaced the pads the first time on my
2004 Civic, I did the reverse engineering (spell?)
with my torque wrench. It click at 100 ft/lbs...

Philippe
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Old 02-12-2005   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by streetglower
yes that is too much. From the service manaul it says 79.6 lbf.ft
79.6 for which ones???
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Old 02-12-2005   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thoughthard
79.6 for which ones???
bolts that hold the bracket to the knuckle.
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Originally Posted by AggressiveAdam
hah yes the K series will make your car fly.
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just got pulled over the other day for having JDM yellow headlights, the cop told me it was illegal to have yellow lights, only white, any comments on this. i was just sittin in my slab with trunk poppin and my candy paint drippin off my doors.
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Old 02-13-2005   #15 (permalink)
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Just got done with the job. Used Satisfied Pro Ceramic pads. Extremely easy.

Opened up the brake fluid reservoir first. They suggested using a c-clamp to slowly compress the caliper first, so I did that. The first side, I loosened the two blue circled bolts, removed the top one, and tried to swing the caliper up, as someone suggested. That didn't work, so I tried the other. No luck, so I put those back in. I removed top red circled bolt, and tried to swing the caliper, but the brake line didn't like that. Replaced that bolt, and removed the bottom. Swung the caliper up, supported it with a bent clothes hanger, replaced pads, swung caliper down, replaced bolt, and torqued to specs that streetglower suggested.

On the second side, skipped all the unnecessary steps I took on the first side.

So far, okay...

Thanks everyone for the input!
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Old 02-13-2005   #16 (permalink)
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^^so in the end you just removed the bottom red one?
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Old 02-13-2005   #17 (permalink)
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Yeah.
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Old 02-13-2005   #18 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thoughthard
Just got done with the job. Used Satisfied Pro Ceramic pads. Extremely easy.

Opened up the brake fluid reservoir first. They suggested using a c-clamp to slowly compress the caliper first, so I did that. The first side, I loosened the two blue circled bolts, removed the top one, and tried to swing the caliper up, as someone suggested. That didn't work, so I tried the other. No luck, so I put those back in. I removed top red circled bolt, and tried to swing the caliper, but the brake line didn't like that. Replaced that bolt, and removed the bottom. Swung the caliper up, supported it with a bent clothes hanger, replaced pads, swung caliper down, replaced bolt, and torqued to specs that streetglower suggested.

On the second side, skipped all the unnecessary steps I took on the first side.

So far, okay...

Thanks everyone for the input!
now you just need to bleed them since you now have air in the system since you opened the master cylinder to the atmosphere.
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hah yes the K series will make your car fly.
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just got pulled over the other day for having JDM yellow headlights, the cop told me it was illegal to have yellow lights, only white, any comments on this. i was just sittin in my slab with trunk poppin and my candy paint drippin off my doors.
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Old 02-13-2005   #19 (permalink)
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Make sure you have a crescent wrench for the flat sided washer just on the other side of the caliper, the one between it and the rubber boot.
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Old 02-13-2005   #20 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by streetglower
now you just need to bleed them since you now have air in the system since you opened the master cylinder to the atmosphere.
Really? Ahh crap
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Old 02-13-2005   #21 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thoughthard
Really? Ahh crap
yup, I am about to buy a pressure bleeder system so I can do it myself, I am not up to that 2 person method.
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Originally Posted by AggressiveAdam
hah yes the K series will make your car fly.
Quote:
Originally Posted by McFLYsi View Post
just got pulled over the other day for having JDM yellow headlights, the cop told me it was illegal to have yellow lights, only white, any comments on this. i was just sittin in my slab with trunk poppin and my candy paint drippin off my doors.
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Old 02-13-2005   #22 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by streetglower
now you just need to bleed them since you now have air in the system since you opened the master cylinder to the atmosphere.
What the hell are you talking about? Opening up the reservoir does NOT require bleeding. The only time you need bleeding is if your reservoir gets emptied to a point where the fluid is low enough to suck air or if you remove the caliper piston. You can bleed it as a precaution but most likely it is unnecessary. Also changing your brake pads does not require you to remove the reservoir cap. The cap itself has a vent on it. That means the fluid in the reservoir is always exposed to the atmosphere. As the pad wears, the fluid will get lower. The vent is there to allow air to displaced the lowered fluid level.
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Old 02-13-2005   #23 (permalink)
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^^^ Hopefully correct, so I don't have to bleed brakes...
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Old 02-14-2005   #24 (permalink)
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you don't need to bleed...

but you should... the pedal feel will be better.
No air have passed through the system if you
only open the reservoir.

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Old 02-14-2005   #25 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phil_Qc
but you should... the pedal feel will be better.
No air have passed through the system if you
only open the reservoir.

Phil.
Well I always thought it did. I guess I learn something new everyday.
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hah yes the K series will make your car fly.
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just got pulled over the other day for having JDM yellow headlights, the cop told me it was illegal to have yellow lights, only white, any comments on this. i was just sittin in my slab with trunk poppin and my candy paint drippin off my doors.
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Old 02-14-2005
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