Wheels,Tires & BrakesPost Wheel, Tire & Brake related modification information and/or questions here.
Welcome to civicforums.com!
Welcome to civicforums.com.
You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to start new topics, reply to conversations, privately message other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join civicforums.com today!
Ok heres the deal, I bought these wheels on ebay linky I im putting them on just now, but the first lugnut I put on strips like a bitch. These are Zenki tuner lugs, so they shouldnt strip. THen I notice that the lugs are only going on about a quarter inch or so. I attached a pic to explain...
What can I do about this?? Can I get longer studs?? I need to have these wheels onfor my race on sunday, so I need to pretty much have them on my today or tomorrow. I'm about to go up to the sheel shop, but id like to be educated when I get there. any help would be appreciated, thanks alot guys.
To remove this ad, register today for free or log in if already registered!
You got 12x1.5mm thread pitch on the nuts right? You're sure you didn't buy Subaru nuts? If you're only getting them on 1/4 an inch, it sounds like you got the wrong thread.
Do the nuts bottom out? Or is the wheel loose? And is the wheel seated on the hub? Or is the centering ring hanging up on the end of the axle?
No, it looks like the metal in teh center of the wheel is really thick, like almost an inch, & the lugnit holes only go in about half way, so theres like a half in difference. So the studs only stick about a quarter inch into the lugnut holes. Or thats what it looks like at least...
& yea the back of the rim is touching the plate that holds the lug studs.
Oh yea, the lugs screw on the posts fine, so theyre the right ones.
I have these wheel locks for sale. (2 sets of 4 = 8 wheel locks) It looks like they might help because they are skinnier but I really don't know... They ARE thinner though. The thread is right too. 12x1.5 Hard to find. With a metal sleeve around the lock head for added anti-tamper protection. The thickness of the base of the locks is about as thick as the key that comes with it (shown on the bottom left).
Gorilla brand.
__________________ Riceteam: Ricedat
Quote:
Originally Posted by PitchBlack
A blind squirrel finds a nut every once in awhile is all I'm saying...
Well I'm thinkin that you have a LITTLE bit of leeway between the threads and the wheel, but not enough to fit a standard conical base lug/lock in. I mean, the threads of the stud aren't scraping the inside of the lug hole of the wheel right? This should work I think.
The sides of the stud CAN'T as flush with the wheel as shown in the picture.
Let me know if you're interested. This may work out for the both of us.
__________________ Riceteam: Ricedat
Quote:
Originally Posted by PitchBlack
A blind squirrel finds a nut every once in awhile is all I'm saying...
You got a digicam? Take a picture of the wheel, head on so I can see the holes, then as oblique as you can and still see the pattern (put the camera on the rim face).
Wait a sec... you got a new Centering ring right? Because if not, thats your hang up. Miatas have a 51mm Centerbore ours is 56.... and the ring isn't fitting. Check on that, if you haven't already... I'm running out of ideas.
Now... if that still doesn't work, then you may need longer studs. I would be surprised if it came to that. Don't let the Discount tire Dufuses do it though, you're unfortunately going to have to grin and bear it for another weekend because you'll probably need open end lugnuts to clear them.
Its kinda hard to do this without being there to mess with it, but I'm trying. If the offset is within the 35-45 bounds, there should be enough stud that hangs out to get them on there.
if it came to that, yes, you'd need open end lugnuts for all your wheels. NOW... if you have the material to do it (which it sounds like you do), take the wheels to a machine shop and get some of the backspacing turned off in a lathe. As long as they machine them all the same (get it done on a CNC) everything should work fine, and you'll be able to keep the stock studs and everything will be fine. Just make sure you don't take off too much that your brakes hit the spokes. You'll have to make a mockup of it to test it out. Every mm you can turn off will get you an extra 1.5 turns of the lugnut. You need to get 9 or 10 to be good. My guess is there's not enough offset and the backspace block is too thick. Alternatively you can have the holes bored deeper if they fit fine now, just make sure they get drilled with a 60 degree taper, not with a standard 118 degree drill bit.
How deep dp you think I need to get the holes bored?? Right now I can screw the lugs on about a quarter inch, how far do they need to be still be safe for autocross??
Ok, I finally found someone that knew what they were talking about...halfway atleast.
I had heard of these special lugnuts that have a stem that goed into the hole about a half inch & grabs more thread, but I couldnt find anyone that had ever seen them. Finally I showed them to the manager of another discount tire & he told me they were called ET lugs(extra thread), & that he could get me a set for about 30 bucks. Heres a pic I found online...
Now I think this would be the best route seeing as I dont want to grind anything off the wheels or bore the holes deeper, I dont want to risk fvking up the wheels & that would probably cost more than I paid for them anyway. Buying longer studs would be another option, butIt would be more expensive, more work, & I would have to buy more lugs for my street wheels(steelies) anyway.
Guys, I need your help quick. *problem solved* 
