RoseyEm2

I was on the highway and downshifted from 5th to 4th to keep up in traffic and the car lost power so I pulled over and it stalledm I tried starting it again but it would just stall. I let it cool and it started up and I drove home with no problems. But the check engine light came on. It said it was the 2 O2 sensors and the speed sensor so I ordered all 3. On the way to get my O2 sensors and Speed Sensor my car lost all power Again and it wouldnt run but it'll crank. No idea why it's doing that, but getting to the other problem is that I installed the new parts and it the check engine light just reads O2 sensors and the speedometer doesn't even work either after replacing the sensor. Literally I'm having such a hard time figuring out why it's doing this . Can anyone just please help me.

ezone

Need exact codes in the standard OBD2 format of 'Pxxxx'.

Blown fuse can take down several items at the same time. Check all fuses in both fuse boxes, if you find any blown report which box and exact position number (usually a number stamped right on the box)


If it blew a fuse, next you'll have to track down why it blew.

ezone

Dash fuse box fuse #4 (10A) supplies power to all of these:

Both O2 sensors, EVAP solenoids, alternator, VSS, ELD, cruise

RoseyEm2

It's usually reading the 2 O2 sensors and P1298

RoseyEm2

Fuse is not blown

ezone

Still need exact codes in the standard OBD2 format of 'Pxxxx'.

RoseyEm2

p0135 p0141 p1298

ezone

ok...
Was the check engine light on BEFORE the engine died on the highway?


P0135/P0141 are both heater circuit codes.

What brand O2 sensors were installed?
The PCM is quite picky about correct resistance and current flow to operate the heaters, any deviation from design spec will trip codes...and many lesser sensors can't cut it.

The factory installed NTK or DENSO sensors. Make sure to use whichever brand sensors the factory used. (probably denso) You can go to the website of that manufacturer and look up the part numbers for the correct sensors for your car, then search online or your local parts stores for those numbers.

If it needs to go deeper yet then checking for power and ground on the heater circuits could be next

P1298 is not a speed sensor.
P1298 is the ELD (in the fuse box), and it may or may not turn on the check engine light, it could just be a hidden code.....There is a TSB about these failing, so if the code repeats I'd just replace it with a new one from Honda.
Online catalog link:
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...VIN+Number+---

RoseyEm2

The check engine light wasn't on before.. I replaced the 2 O2 sensors with a brangld called kwiksen. It was 40$ for 2. I changed the cam sensor and the car keeps shutting down still the code is P01361. I did a D16y8 intake manifold idk if that has anything to do with the O2 sensors. My Speed Sensor code is still coming on still.

ezone

I'd expect that cheapo parts could be a problem.

Wait...you replaced a sensor that wasn't causing any code before, NOW there's a problem? Reinstall the original good sensor?


Which fault code would that be?

Have you checked cam timing?

RoseyEm2

Could the brand really be a problem?
And no there was a code but it would only come on when my car shuts down so I went to get a cam sensor. The timing was always the same I never did anything on the car. I'm doing a d17a2 head swap soon. The speed sensor code is P0500 and the cam code is P01361.

ezone

If the parts don't meet the exact specifications that keep the PCM happy. Low quality parts oftentimes cause more problems than you started with.

Like I said earlier, the PCM is quite picky.

Everything can be measured to determine good or bad, if one can find specs for it. Any decent service manual should have troubleshooting info for these codes.


Doesn't matter if you touched it, the question is "is it correct?" Has it jumped time? Has the tensioner spring let go?

The PCM can shut down the engine if it determines cam-crank sync isn't correct.
Got a scanner that can display live PCM data?
Does the data show an active and accurate VSS value while driving?
Each terminal at the sensor connector can be checked for correct voltage or ground as per troubleshooting instructions.
You can also plug in a known good sensor (preferably parts that come from a car that had no problems) and spin it by hand to see if the scanner or gauge needle reacts.....because if the speed sensor drive gear inside the trans were worn, it wouldn't be able to spin the sensor---right? Something to think about.

RoseyEm2

I have an scanner that was 100$ it can display live data but I'm nuts about the voltage. It usually will just tell me about intake temp intake manifold pressure and all that goodness.


I guess I will also have to take back the O2 sensors and get the money back to go buy some honda 02 sensors I have a feeling that maybe ten Manifold is cracked I get a little ticking sound.. I definitely have to buy that electronic load detector.. it's so cheap AutoZone wanted to charge me 400$ on the website it said like 30$

I haven't checked spring tensioner so I have a feeling I should take alot look at that.

I haven't really done voltage check on the VSS I just plugged it in cause that's how many videos were. I have a feeling it kind be the gauge cluster cause my gas gauge is moving up and down slowly.

Last thing, since you explained​ to me what everything was, where would you advise I should start? What should I do first? Need I remind you that the 2 O2 sensors, Electronic Load Detector, VSS or Gauge cluster and possibly cam sensor is all a problem.

ezone

?

It may not display what the PCM sees wrong with the O2 heater circuits.
IDK what it can show about cam sensor

It should display VSS in real time, so if you were able to drive it around you could see if it registers a speed value.


You could test to see if they don't meet specs. If fail, then replace.

You can get OEM O2 sensors cheaper than Honda. Go to the Denso website (assuming Denso sensors were installed from the factory, check your old ones to verify this), look up sensors for your exact car, then search those Denso part numbers at your local parts store website. Yes, even places like dangerzone can get the right OEM parts sometimes but YOU have to do all the legwork.

Changing parts all day long is easy, anyone can do it.
Not all problems can be fixed that way though.


Um, sounds like a completely separate issue.



Timing belt related checks first IMO. Correct belt timing, tensioner and spring, etc.

If I was looking at it in person, I might notice something else that would lead me in a completely different direction though.
Got spark? Got fuel? Got compression?

RoseyEm2

Got a scanner on it and read the voltage that the O2 sensors are pushing out. Literally little to no voltage at all for both of them

ezone

OK that data has absolutely nothing to do with figuring out and fixing heater code problems P0135 and P0141.
You do need to be able to read and clear fault codes when dealing with P0135 and P0141 but a datalist is useless for those codes.

Datalist is useful for other codes and faults though.

RoseyEm2

No it was causing a problem before.. my car wouldn't start in the high school parking lot and I just got out my tool case and got to work. Seems like the new cam sensor broke. So luckily I kept the old one and I clean it up and put it back on. Car runs fine..? Weird as hell. Speed sensor code is P0500. I did what you said and tried to spin the gear and it seems like nothing is coming up. Like whenever I put in my bluedriver scan tool is always says something something about speed sensor circuit A. I got a refund for the 2 O2 sensors and the speed sensor. So I'll just go to the website you gave me and ordered O2 sensors from there.

ezone

If you have to replace it use one from Honda or the same brand honda used (check brand name on original sensor)

If sensor swap didn't improve anything, you might need to buy a decent volt-ohm meter and learn how to diagnose electrical problems.

If correct Denso O2 sensors don't solve their fault codes, same deal time to use a voltmeter and actually diagnose