tkcne

02 Ex Automatic. I've got a noise coming from my engine. It sounds like a knocking when the car is idling in gear. It is audible in park but not so loud. As I come to a full stop the noise progressively gets louder. When the car is accelerating it sounds like a buzzing and then it is usually not audible when driving steady at low RPMS. It seems like it is better when the engine is cold and progressively worse as it gets hotter. I read somewhere that you could confirm it was rod knock by disconnecting the ignition coils one at a time and one would make it quieter. But disconnecting each coil seems to make it much louder.

I've already made peace with the fact that it is a spun bearing and that it is too far gone. But is there any reason to think that it isn't rod knock? Is there any way I can confirm it without pulling the pan?

Thanks

ezone

Has it been run out of oil? Oil changes neglected?

Use a stethoscope to determine a source area or pinpoint it?

Spring is missing from the timing belt tensioner pulley?

Has the trans ever been removed?

tkcne

The last time the transmission ran before it went out, it revved really high for awhile before getting into 3rd. I think the oil may have been low at that point, but still on the stick. That's the best guess I can make as to how the bearing could have spun.

No stethoscope. How else can I do this?

I don't think so. I was under the impression that it would be instant failure if that came off and the belt came loose. The spring was a new Honda part when I changed it 22k ago.
Yeah it gave out and I rebuilt it maybe a month and a half ago. Everything seemed to work smoothly afterwards. The first time I noticed the noise was when I was stopped at a light about a week after. It sound like a loud thunking noise. I thought it was the engine mounts at the time though. The fluid leaked out of the trans mount when I reinstalled it and the back bolt stripped out of the rear mount. I thought the noise was the rear mount rattling on the subframe. After I replaced those I thought the noise was coming from the power steering pump because I noticed I could make the the noise stop by turning the wheel while stopped. It would ramp up as the PS pressure increased and then stop as it was released. I flushed the PS fluid and even tried it without the PS belt but the noise was still there.

The noise has gotten progressively more frequent. At first it kind of just seemed like a random one off thing but now its every time after about 5min of driving.

ezone

Wooden dowel or long screwdriver (or just about anything similar) held to your ear can work as a stethoscope.


Your first post doesn't make me think bearings.

I really want to say........Go under and recheck the 8 small torque converter-to-flexplate bolts.

tkcne

Just curious, what makes you think not bearings?

Hmmm... I'll check. I really thought I did a good job on those. Worked out the star pattern and even did 2 steps with a beam wrench to 9lbf.

I'll take drop the exhaust and take a look at that tomorrow. Any other potential ideas?

ezone

Drop exhaust? Can't the inspection covers come off just enough to check the bolts without taking apart the kitchen sink?

(I can't see what you are dealing with from here)

Listen to the stethoscope, where does that lead?

tkcne

The bolt for the cover is under the shift linkage covers which are right next to the exhaust pipe so you kind of have to take it all off, but no biggie.

You are a genius though. I'll upload a picture later but basically one of the 8 had backed itself out and had flattened itself on the cover plate. I'm going to go check homedepot for a bolt.

How do I keep them from backing out? I'm sure I torqued them all to 8.7lbf like it asked for. Should I go a little tighter?

ezone

Were the other 7 bolts still tight?
Maybe you just completely missed tightening that one bolt?


Inaccurate torque wrench?
If that were the case I'd suspect some or all the rest of the bolts could be on the verge of coming loose too.

I tighten those by hand myself.
If I were torquing, I'd have used an inch-pound torque wrench for that low value.


Loctite....low strength threadlocker?
take a good one for an example.... If it's not an exact match, you may want to get a pair and you can place them 180* apart to keep the rotating mass in correct balance.

tkcne

Guess so. They were lose but not backed out. I'll go pick up an inch-pound wrench tomorrow.

This the right stuff? http://www.homedepot.com/p/Loctite-0...9728/100371826

I went to home depot and ace and called the auto part stores. No one had exactly what I needed. They were all 6x12 or 6x16 instead of 6x14 and I was concerned about strength so I ordered them from the dealer. I got a whole set of ones from a 2017 model because they were less than half the cost and would get here a day faster.

ezone

No. This is The Right Stuff®



LOL


Yea loctite 242 is ok IMO.
Price sounds high, glad the shop pays for this stuff LOL

I don't use it on TC bolts though, I think you just didn't get them tight enough.

ezone

Posting so I can hopefully find this video later LOL

tkcne

Cool I'll remember that.



This is what it looked like. That bolt is a couple mm shorter than it should be. New bolts in and the car runs great. It's amazing what a difference actually having the transmission attached can do.

ezone

OH OH OH A BLUE CONVERTER! LMAO!

Did you tap out the holes (chase the threads) before assembling? They may have had paint in them causing your problem.

Last damn blue converter I saw was in a Jasper reman trans (long story, twice) and all of the converter bolt holes had to be tapped by hand before any bolts could be threaded into it.

tkcne

This one was Pro King, I got it from Oreilly. I didn't know anything about how to juge a converter so I just went with what was available at the time. The bolts were definitely hard to get started the first time but I managed to get them in. Never thought to tap them. The new bolts went in better this time around so maybe they will hold. I was planning to check them again this weekend anyway.