Strycker

iTrader: (1)

So I finally need to replace my cracked manifold for my safety inspection in VA. Bought the kit from 1A Auto and was out attempting to replace it today. All the upper bolts come loose fine. I soaked the bottom bolts with PB but I noticed a third bolt on the O2 sensor side. Is that bolt holding the manifold to the frame? Everything I've seen says to remove the two bottom bolts. My new part even have the hole where said bolt would go. Am I missing something? I need to get the O2 sensor out before I could even attempt to remove it and was hoping I only needed to get the spring bolts out. That bolt is going to require me to get the O2 socket before I can remove it. Has this been the case for anytime else? Those spring bolts are stuck good too. Kit came with new ones, so I don't care much if they snap. Really want to compete this job, but seem stuck now.

OneJzSupra

Normally one of is a stud that has a nut on it instead.... I'll have a look at mine and report back.

Strycker

iTrader: (1)

I noticed on the diagram from Google there is an L bracket. I found another post referencing to remove the bolt holding it to the engine block. I didn't see that bolt. I need to take another look and see if I can access it. Still think the other will need removed. Not if it's on the end of the exhaust pipe mating flange. Seems like it would be and needs removed. I did also see a nut on the bottom of the L bracket. Didn't attempt removal, but soaked it with PB.

OneJzSupra

Looks like a total of 5 bolts for the mani.

Strycker

iTrader: (1)

I've got 3 on the top end bolting to the engine studs. 2 holding the heat shield in place (optional 2 to remove upper heat shield.). On the lower side, 2 spring bolts and that L bracket I have to figure out.

Strycker

iTrader: (1)

If I can get all the bolts loose except for the spring bolts, which I have replacements for already, is there any reason I couldn't just cut these bolts off with a sawsall? I think I can get everything else loose on the manifold except these two. I'll be tossing the old manifold anyway.

Colin42

New spring bolts are threading in to the new manifold?
I'd say go for it, just be careful, the bolts are under spring tension.
Up in my area, after a few years they usually just snap off when you try to loosen them because of all the salt.

Strycker

iTrader: (1)

Yes, they have the threaded nut attached to the top side of the flange on the manifold itself. So in theory, it should just come loose if they break off. I can't tell if they're just twisting / bending as I attempt to loosen them or if they want to break free. I soaked PB on it, so next attempt it might come loose. May hit it with the Benzomatic too for good measure. I thought it would be a quick fix by myself till I ran into that L bracket. We have lots of road salts too here in VA so rust is definitely a condition.

Colin42

torch will help but it will probably set the penetrating fluid on fire so be careful, have something nearby to put out the flames

Strycker

iTrader: (1)

I actually saoked it last weekend and the wife has driven it around this week. Plus I started it and let it burn off a bit last Sunday, so hopefully that won't happen. But will keep an eye on it.

I love how all the how-to articles I find don't even show that damn bracket that holds to the engine block. I can't tell if I need to remove that one of the one below the lower O2 sensor for it to come loose. Guess we will find out soon enough.

Added a scan of the part that's giving me trouble.

ezone

Assuming you intend to be lifting the manifold assembly straight up and out of the engine compartment?

IF you cannot get the bolt and L shaped bracket freed from the bottom flange of the old cat, then remove the bolt holding the bracket to the block.
Leave bracket attached to the old cat, and take the cat out with the bracket attached.

Once it's on the workbench you can work to get the bracket freed from the old cat. (Impact gun, heat, whatever it takes to get the bolt freed and the bracket removed. Another bolt is easy to get if you have to destroy the old one.)

====

Even if you did get the bracket loose from the manifold in the car, you will still need to loosen the bolt holding the bracket to the block anyway......read on:

When you go to reassemble the new cat to the engine, connect the bracket but do not tighten either bolt until the manifold section (upper) of the new cat is fully tightened to the cylinder head. Once that is done, then you can finish with the bottom bracket installation: run the two bolts in but stop at the very last thread (just barely loose enough to let the bracket float and find its natural position), this is to make sure the bracket is not cocked or in a bind as the bolts are 'final tightened'. NOW you can finish tightening both bolts.

The bottom L shaped bracket is just a support to keep the bottom of the manifold assembly from moving....but if you tightened the bracket in such a way that it causes undue stress upon the manifold, it can lead to premature breakage.

Then you can connect the spring loaded bolts and the rest of the exhaust.

HTH

Strycker

iTrader: (1)

So I managed to get everything loose and off. Thanks for the advice on the L bracket. I left it loose and managed to get everything tightened back up and flush as it was before. The problem I ran into now is the spring bolts. It's nearly impossible for me to compress the spring enough the get it to seat on the nut threads. I was wrestling under the car pushing and twisting, but couldn't get it to grip onto the threads to save my life. I installed the old springs, but feel they are too short and allow the thread to cinch tight to the flange which I assume is no bueno. For the time being I might leave it and see if it runs well. But is there a secret besides luck that can get those damn things on? I wish I had an impact gun. That might be the trick. Force and driving it. Maybe I'll try my drill with the 14mm on an extension to get leverage.

Oh and those previous spring bolts never budged. They simply sheared off. About 15 years of rust on them. Tried heat and PB and nothing helped. No harm through, already had the new ones.

ezone

Might be a PITA but no secret or trick I know of....just push hard enough to compress the spring and get threads poked far enough through to start the nut or begin threading into the flange.


Depending on the situation, I sometimes use a 24" extension just so I can be pretty sure I'm NOT pushing on it at an angle.....because....Pulling the trigger on an impact gun can cause things to get cross-threaded in a hurry!

Strycker

iTrader: (1)

Ended up buying a drill to socket adapter for $4 at Lowes and used my drill. Could get enough leverage behind the drill to compress and align the bolts and drive them home. Piece of cake with the right tools. Everything seems to be in place, no rattles or vibrations. Putting the new heat shield on was a PITA because it used bolts with nuts, not pre threaded attachment points. Getting my hand in there to hold the tiny 10mm nut was a pain, but I managed to get them on. Hopefully all goes well with the re inspection. Supposed to just look at new part and be done. We will see. Thanks for the advice.

ezone

Um, it may have worked better if you put the heat shields around the cat before the unit is installed in the car.

Strycker

iTrader: (1)

Would have but couldn't have gotten center stud nut on if I did. The angle on the new exhaust manifold wouldn't allow for the socket to reach into the space so had to use an open ended wrench to tighten that nut. The OEM is more curved in between 2 & 3 exhaust port. New one flattened out. Little different design. So I had to add the heat shield last. The lower one was in place during install however. Just the upper was the issue.