Weird overheating issue
#1
Texas B***head
Thread Starter
Weird overheating issue
First off yea I've read the pinned threads and several others on HG. Bought this 03 Lx last week. Ran perfect first few days. Started overheating and heater not working so I first thought HG. Changed the thermostat. He said he had already changed the water pump. Still overheated. Also the fan is not kicking on when it gets hot. I know the fan motors are good because they both come on when AC is on. Fuses are good. It was overheating very quick when driving. Here's the weird part. I can start it and let it idle for 30 mins and it won't overheat. Soon as I drive it it overheats. Here's the even weirder part. I was at my buddies and let it run for 30 mins sitting there talking to him about it. I left and drove 15 miles and sat in drive thru line getting lunch then drove 10 miles home, never got above half. I'm stumped. Having my mechanic friend check it out tomorrow. At very least it's just a fan relay or something.
#2
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: Weird overheating issue
so I first thought HG
#4
Texas B***head
Thread Starter
Re: Weird overheating issue
I insisted that I buy the gasket kit and pay him to have it done but he wants to check it out first.
As I said, my mechanic is going to look at it today.
I had back surgery back in September so I can't do anything like a HG.
As I said, my mechanic is going to look at it today.
I had back surgery back in September so I can't do anything like a HG.
#6
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: Weird overheating issue
OE gasket is best. Posters have reported seriously premature failures with aftermarket.
If he can't find it, he's not doing the right test.
Compression test won't find the usual bad head gasket on this engine.
Unless someone is very familiar with how these head gaskets fail, most people (mechanics included) don't figure these out on the first try because they will pass every check most people can think to look for-----until the head gasket leak becomes rapid and major.
Read everything in the first post of this thread, and watch the videos:
https://www.civicforums.com/forums/36-mechanical-problems-vehicle-issues-fix-forum/340759-overheating-mysterious-coolant-loss-common-causes-reference.html
but he wants to check it out first.
As I said, my mechanic is going to look at it today.
As I said, my mechanic is going to look at it today.
Compression test won't find the usual bad head gasket on this engine.
Unless someone is very familiar with how these head gaskets fail, most people (mechanics included) don't figure these out on the first try because they will pass every check most people can think to look for-----until the head gasket leak becomes rapid and major.
Read everything in the first post of this thread, and watch the videos:
https://www.civicforums.com/forums/36-mechanical-problems-vehicle-issues-fix-forum/340759-overheating-mysterious-coolant-loss-common-causes-reference.html
#8
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
#9
Texas B***head
Thread Starter
Re: Weird overheating issue
Yea that didn't fix anything but the fan not working. Still overheating and spraying coolant everywhere. I am about 99% sure it's HG now. Going to try to make it to my buddies shop and do a pressure test through the plugs.
#10
Texas B***head
Thread Starter
Re: Weird overheating issue
So I pulled the orielys thermostat I put in and no over heating now. Could that be the problem? I already ordered a Honda thermo.
#12
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: Weird overheating issue
For a short time....because as soon as the radiator gets low enough again, the overheating comes right back.
#13
Texas B***head
Thread Starter
Re: Weird overheating issue
So this happened today.
Ordered everything on the HG list from Hondapartscheap.com. A little over $500 after shipping.
Hopefully it doesn't take a week to get here. Already got my car apart down to the valve cover. Can someone point me in the right direction where to get the Honda antifreeze.
Also how do I post pics from my Photobucket. Doesn't seem to be working.
Ordered everything on the HG list from Hondapartscheap.com. A little over $500 after shipping.
Hopefully it doesn't take a week to get here. Already got my car apart down to the valve cover. Can someone point me in the right direction where to get the Honda antifreeze.
Also how do I post pics from my Photobucket. Doesn't seem to be working.
Last edited by Beardman; 01-12-2017 at 10:21 PM.
#14
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: Weird overheating issue
Also how do I post pics from my Photobucket. Doesn't seem to be working.
Any dealer can sell you Hondas antifreeze.
You can look for Ethylene Glycol that is Silicate free and Borate free..
Make sure you have the head checked for flatness by a qualified machinist.
.002" is the max spec.
If warped the head will need to be resurfaced ----and the finish must be extremely smooth, or the gasket won't be able to seal.
500 for parts seems high. What all did you order?
#17
Texas B***head
Thread Starter
Re: Weird overheating issue
grab the direct URL, come back here and click the icon above the text reply box, a popup appears, paste your URL into the box. . Click ok.
Any dealer can sell you Hondas antifreeze.
You can look for Ethylene Glycol that is Silicate free and Borate free..
Make sure you have the head checked for flatness by a qualified machinist.
.002" is the max spec.
If warped the head will need to be resurfaced ----and the finish must be extremely smooth, or the gasket won't be able to seal.
500 for parts seems high. What all did you order?
Any dealer can sell you Hondas antifreeze.
You can look for Ethylene Glycol that is Silicate free and Borate free..
Make sure you have the head checked for flatness by a qualified machinist.
.002" is the max spec.
If warped the head will need to be resurfaced ----and the finish must be extremely smooth, or the gasket won't be able to seal.
500 for parts seems high. What all did you order?
#19
Texas B***head
Thread Starter
#20
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: Weird overheating issue
Oh wow, that's a lot of miles.
Want to stick a set of rings on the pistons while it's apart? (stuck oil rings = oil consumption) Not saying you have to, but now would be the ideal time as the head will be off the block.
Want to stick a set of rings on the pistons while it's apart? (stuck oil rings = oil consumption) Not saying you have to, but now would be the ideal time as the head will be off the block.
#21
Texas B***head
Thread Starter
Re: Weird overheating issue
#22
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: Weird overheating issue
Parts catalog. And follow the service manual.
O ring seal on the oil pump (pressure passage seal)? Plus some RTV. Follow service manual.
Oil pump front seal (front crank seal)?
It's late and I don't want to check on the rod bolts. Check service manual on if they need replaced or not.
Oil pan comes off to do pistons.....D17A1 would need a pan gasket, D17A2 would be RTV.
I think. Check parts catalog?
Anything else I should replace?
O ring seal on the oil pump (pressure passage seal)? Plus some RTV. Follow service manual.
Oil pump front seal (front crank seal)?
It's late and I don't want to check on the rod bolts. Check service manual on if they need replaced or not.
Oil pan comes off to do pistons.....D17A1 would need a pan gasket, D17A2 would be RTV.
I think. Check parts catalog?
#24
Texas B***head
Thread Starter
Re: Weird overheating issue
Intake off
Head off and head bolts cleaned up. Took head to machine shop to be resurfaced, should get it back tomorrow.
Still waiting for all the parts to be shipped. -_-
I also ordered a oil pan gasket couple weeks ago that already came in, guess I'll go ahead and change that tomorrow.
If anyone has any tips as to how to clean the tops of the pistons and top of the block where the new gasket will go. I know not to use scotch brite but not sure how to clean without messing anything up.
Head off and head bolts cleaned up. Took head to machine shop to be resurfaced, should get it back tomorrow.
Still waiting for all the parts to be shipped. -_-
I also ordered a oil pan gasket couple weeks ago that already came in, guess I'll go ahead and change that tomorrow.
If anyone has any tips as to how to clean the tops of the pistons and top of the block where the new gasket will go. I know not to use scotch brite but not sure how to clean without messing anything up.
#25
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: Weird overheating issue
The only thing left on the surfaces is carbon and 'black paint' (probably teflon or graphite) from the gasket coating.
Scrape solids gently with a single edge razor blade, wipe clean with brake cleaner/acetone/carb cleaner and a rag. Don't try to get all the dark colors out, that's not a problem. The important part is to get it all smooth so the new gasket can seal on a nice flat surface.
Do not gouge surfaces!
Inspect the machined finish of the block now....note how smoooooth it is. You can see machining marks but you can't really feel them. (The surface of the head was identical.)
When you get the head back, its freshly machined surface needs to be that smooth also. My local machine shop can't get this correct, so I have been sending my work to the next big city almost an hour away. If the machined surface is too rough, it can cause leakage as the coating on the MLS style gasket can't fill in those (seemingly minor) imperfections.
A belt sander finish used to be acceptable when working with a composite head gasket, but is not acceptable for an MLS gasket.
With the head off you can spin the crank to inspect cylinder walls if you would like to.
I try to wipe a light smear of oil around the exposed cylinder walls with your finger so they don't rust while apart, and to help rings sealing for startup.
I don't really worry about cleaning piston tops during a plain head gasket job. Maybe knock off the tall and loose stuff.
DO remove all traces of oil and coolant out of the head bolt holes in the block. You can crack the block if you tighten bolts down on top of liquids trapped in those holes.
I always try to remove all traces of spilled oil from the water jacket surrounding the cylinders in the block.
Scrape solids gently with a single edge razor blade, wipe clean with brake cleaner/acetone/carb cleaner and a rag. Don't try to get all the dark colors out, that's not a problem. The important part is to get it all smooth so the new gasket can seal on a nice flat surface.
Do not gouge surfaces!
Inspect the machined finish of the block now....note how smoooooth it is. You can see machining marks but you can't really feel them. (The surface of the head was identical.)
When you get the head back, its freshly machined surface needs to be that smooth also. My local machine shop can't get this correct, so I have been sending my work to the next big city almost an hour away. If the machined surface is too rough, it can cause leakage as the coating on the MLS style gasket can't fill in those (seemingly minor) imperfections.
A belt sander finish used to be acceptable when working with a composite head gasket, but is not acceptable for an MLS gasket.
With the head off you can spin the crank to inspect cylinder walls if you would like to.
I try to wipe a light smear of oil around the exposed cylinder walls with your finger so they don't rust while apart, and to help rings sealing for startup.
I don't really worry about cleaning piston tops during a plain head gasket job. Maybe knock off the tall and loose stuff.
DO remove all traces of oil and coolant out of the head bolt holes in the block. You can crack the block if you tighten bolts down on top of liquids trapped in those holes.
I always try to remove all traces of spilled oil from the water jacket surrounding the cylinders in the block.
#26
Texas B***head
Thread Starter
Re: Weird overheating issue
The only thing left on the surfaces is carbon and 'black paint' (probably teflon or graphite) from the gasket coating.
Scrape solids gently with a single edge razor blade, wipe clean with brake cleaner/acetone/carb cleaner and a rag. Don't try to get all the dark colors out, that's not a problem. The important part is to get it all smooth so the new gasket can seal on a nice flat surface.
Do not gouge surfaces!
Inspect the machined finish of the block now....note how smoooooth it is. You can see machining marks but you can't really feel them. (The surface of the head was identical.)
When you get the head back, its freshly machined surface needs to be that smooth also. My local machine shop can't get this correct, so I have been sending my work to the next big city almost an hour away. If the machined surface is too rough, it can cause leakage as the coating on the MLS style gasket can't fill in those (seemingly minor) imperfections.
A belt sander finish used to be acceptable when working with a composite head gasket, but is not acceptable for an MLS gasket.
With the head off you can spin the crank to inspect cylinder walls if you would like to.
I try to wipe a light smear of oil around the exposed cylinder walls with your finger so they don't rust while apart, and to help rings sealing for startup.
I don't really worry about cleaning piston tops during a plain head gasket job. Maybe knock off the tall and loose stuff.
DO remove all traces of oil and coolant out of the head bolt holes in the block. You can crack the block if you tighten bolts down on top of liquids trapped in those holes.
I always try to remove all traces of spilled oil from the water jacket surrounding the cylinders in the block.
Scrape solids gently with a single edge razor blade, wipe clean with brake cleaner/acetone/carb cleaner and a rag. Don't try to get all the dark colors out, that's not a problem. The important part is to get it all smooth so the new gasket can seal on a nice flat surface.
Do not gouge surfaces!
Inspect the machined finish of the block now....note how smoooooth it is. You can see machining marks but you can't really feel them. (The surface of the head was identical.)
When you get the head back, its freshly machined surface needs to be that smooth also. My local machine shop can't get this correct, so I have been sending my work to the next big city almost an hour away. If the machined surface is too rough, it can cause leakage as the coating on the MLS style gasket can't fill in those (seemingly minor) imperfections.
A belt sander finish used to be acceptable when working with a composite head gasket, but is not acceptable for an MLS gasket.
With the head off you can spin the crank to inspect cylinder walls if you would like to.
I try to wipe a light smear of oil around the exposed cylinder walls with your finger so they don't rust while apart, and to help rings sealing for startup.
I don't really worry about cleaning piston tops during a plain head gasket job. Maybe knock off the tall and loose stuff.
DO remove all traces of oil and coolant out of the head bolt holes in the block. You can crack the block if you tighten bolts down on top of liquids trapped in those holes.
I always try to remove all traces of spilled oil from the water jacket surrounding the cylinders in the block.
#27
Texas B***head
Thread Starter
Re: Weird overheating issue
Well finally got her back together. Lost the throttle cable stay bracket so had to order one off eBay. Also, I feel ashamed to admit this, I left 2 blue paper towels in the 2 middle cylinders...forgot to take them out before the head went on. Well there was some clanking noise on first startup then it died, started it again and revved to about 3k and I assume it blew it all out lol. Thank god I don't have a cat it went straight out the back. But she's running great now, no more overheating.
#29
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: Weird overheating issue
I left 2 blue paper towels in the 2 middle cylinders...forgot to take them out before the head went on. Well there was some clanking noise