califcamper

Anyone that has done a timing belt replacement
on a 2004 civic

I finally got crank pulley off, marks are not lined up, belt is still on,
can you move the pulleys clockwise or does it have to be counterclock wise direction only?

Thanks

xRiCeBoYx

iTrader: (22)

I've always gone by counter-clockwise only. How far off are the marks?

califcamper

Its about an inch off, was thinking I could put a wrench on the top pulley to move it,
not sure though seems like everyone uses the bottom pulley to turn it...
Ill figure it out hopefully...

ezone

Reinstall the crank pulley but don't install the bolt. Rotate the crank pulley by hand, or by using the special tool (large hex tool) to wherever you need it to be (TDC marks). Remove pulley again. Continue with timing belt service.

guitarsnlikker

just out of curiosity did your woodruff key fall out? Or was it missing?

califcamper

woodruff key accounted for, unfortunately, this has been hell from the start,
last "mechanic" put aftermarket crank pulley on it, so it actually looked more like a pulley from an odyssey, no hex, etc...

I did see someone on youtube, actually turn the crank (timing belt still on) a bit clockwise, so I guess it really doesn't matter if you slightly move it that way.
I will find out, cause ended up moving it about an inch clockwise to match it up.

But yea this is a JOB I like to work on my car but it just seems to get into more and more... Now I'm at the point, where I'm thinking the oil pump o ring could be leaking, that others have spoke about (ive had a mysterious leak for a while), so since I'm here, I'm gonna replace that, but to do that have to drop the oil pan...and then why not just replace the oil pump, it goes on and on...

califcamper

thanks yeah didn't have a hex in this aftermarket pulley anyway managed to get past that
its lined up, etc..

lower TB cover was broken, and had rubbed against the pulley so it was half disintegrated over time, replacing all covers, new pulley, water pump, etc

question I have now for you e is getting to that seal on the back of the oil pump, oil pan
has to be dropped right? And right now I have the oil pan being supported with a jack
I guess I have to put the engine mount back on and remove jack under oil pan, then remove, then I can get to oil pump? (I see oil around bottom of tb area) thanks again

ezone

There's no reason to replace the oil pump if there's no need to replace the pump. A reseal is fine.

califcamper

appreciate that will just reseal

ezone

From a recent one. You'll need some RTV along all the edges along with the O ring.

califcamper

thanks for the pic
yeah I have a jack under the oil pan
guess I have to reinstall the engine mount
I took off so I can take that jack out...
remove the oil pan, etc etc..

ezone

In my pics I didn't have the mount off because this engine already had a recent timing belt service and I was not replacing it. (you can barely see the teeth of the timing belt in the pic)

Could you just shove a block of wood under the compressor pulley and let the engine rest on that instead of fighting to reinstall the mount parts?

ezone

If you're going to have the oil pump off the engine, you may as well replace the crank seal on the front of the pump. You know what's bound to happen if you don't!

califcamper

yeah have that too, and will do
I noticed when I jacked up the side (under door) to put
a jack stand in,
the car went up and eventually weight of the motor came
off the jack I had under pan, so I guess in this situation
the motor drops but eventually stops, maybe cause the other
mount is holding it up??
I will put a jack anyway under compressor to take some weight
off...
Also would like to check the cam seal,
would that require me taking that top pulley off right? I guess I
have to secure it from moving also to loosen that nut...
ever remove that? picture is the one I'm talking about

ezone

The compressor pulley is resting on the subframe. That's as far as the engine will drop after the one mount is taken apart, about 2 inches or so

The pan and stuff will probably come off just fine with the engine hanging down as far as it already is.


I mentioned a block of wood if you really need it to be higher. I doubt you need to.


You can look for oil evidence.


I'd break the bolt loose before removing the timing belt.
To loosen or tighten the bolt, I also might use a spanner wrench to hold the pulley by its spokes, or stick a screwdriver under a spoke and onto the head surface if the belt is already off. (you better know what you are doing first, move the cam too far and you can bend valves)

Get specs. Use a good torque wrench when tightening that bolt. If it comes loose it can bend valves.

califcamper

yeah that would SUCK
thanks again for the info

ezone

Although I personally haven't had problems with this....I'm tossing it out here:

Someone on the forum had their cam gear bolt work itself loose several thousand miles after it was assembled.......he's been recommending loctite on the bolt during assembly.
I wouldn't use high strength (permanent) though.
I'd think low or medium strength to be sufficient IMO

xRiCeBoYx

iTrader: (22)

that was me, and it was the tdc sensor bolt, not cam bolt. Made a nice little meal of my timing belt.

ezone

Nah, someone else had the cam gear bolt problem.