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Hey E'rybody --
About 3 months ago the P0335 code appeared and I ended up finding that coolant was leaking onto the ckps. Replaced sensor and all was good until now (3 months later) until the same code popped up. I just got to the sensor tonight and am going to include a picture of the area. There is clearly fluid (oil?) kind of all over the area including on the sensor itself. Bad oil pan gasket? I appreciate anyone out there who can help confirm.
Thaaaanks,
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ezone

Coolant got into the connector?
I'd suspect now there's some corrosion inside the electrical terminals (harness side) causing bad connections.


Can't tell you where the oil leak started, nor if it's got anything to do with the code......but oil will probably make the rubber weather seals inside the wire connector all mushy and not seal well....lets in more water later on.

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Thanks, as always, ezone!

Yes, I am thinking that this P0335 problem still resides with leftover coolant all up in the electrical terminals. I'm beginning to see if I can locate a replacement harness.

Now, the oil leak is a separate issue that I'm glad I am finding out about now. I've looked it up on this forum and found that my problem most likely lies with the oil pump o-ring, based on oil residue location. So, I just purchased a set of o-rings for that area in addition to a new oil pan gasket.

I will post an update.

Thanks.
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2004 lx sedan btw..

I'm at the stage of replacing seals on the oil pump. I've removed the (5?) bolts from the oil pump and I'm needing some hints on how to break that honda bond seal? My oil pan gasket was indeed hardened and in need of replacement.

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Colin42

a couple of light smacks with a rubber mallet? find a place where you can pry gently without damaging any sealing surfaces?

ezone

You didn't install the oil pan yet, right?
Sump pickup bolted to anything other than the pump?

Pump needs to slide off square, as the drive gear is wrapped around the snout of the crank. Need to pry equally to start moving then should slide off. Pretty sure it's on small dowel pins for alignment.

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Thanks for the replies. I've been schooled on this project...

I ended up getting the oil pump off by hitting it with rubber mallet from all sides.

So, I installed oil pump with new o-ring, and then installed the oil pan with new gasket (+ HB). Torqued everything down and got out to take a break. Looked around and there on the floor was sitting the flywheel plate! I ended up just buying a new gasket since it was difficult to remove the old Honda Bond. Stupid.

Got the oil pan back in there, took a water break. Looked around on the floor and oh my f'ing god I forgot to put in the oil pick-up!

At this point I was so fed up that I just removed the pan, installed the pick-up, and re-installed the pan without removing or touching up the honda bond. Well, I seem to be paying for that now because I got the car put back together and there is a slow but steady leak coming from below the crank. I have to go see if I can pinpoint if it's the oil pan gasket, or the oil pump. Either way, holy s.

I'm going to tear everything down (again) and call a local mechanic who does house calls and have him install the oil pump and oil pan.

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*Update*

Just finished taking off PS pump, alternator, crank bolt, valve cover, timing covers, alt. bracket, engine mount, and timing belt. I noticed this morning after finding out last night that I had an oil leak coming off of lower timing cover, that not much oil had collected over night and it was not dripping really today when I went out there. After taking a closer look I am seeing the fresh oil all along the side of the engine and a bit on the back, too. Quite a bit got on the crank sensor, too. So, I'm praying that my problem lies with the valve cover gasket? It's fairly new that's why I never questioned it before...

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ezone

Gasket for what? The sealer comes right off with a razor blade.

Look for the starting point.

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The oil pan I'm dealing with uses an actual gasket, rather than a liquid gasket type deal. The Honda Bond was placed at the four places referred to by Chilton, and that's what was hard to remove So I just bought a new gasket.

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Fastforward to now...

No more oil leaks as of yet BUT..

Replaced wiring harness for Crankshaft Position Sensor and nothing changed for me. Engine light still on with code P0335. Attempted to clear it and the car wanted to stall. It's still running in limp mode.

I'm wondering if I need to (again) replace the sensor? Very frustrating!

ezone

Oh hell, I don't know. You did erase the codes, yes? Now it's reset the same code? How quick does the code reset?

Crank gear is not installed backwards? (IDK if that's even possible)

Start over at the beginning and test as if you didn't know anything about what's already been done?

This sensor on it now, did it get antifreeze trapped in its connector? Could it have corrosion issues in the terminals?

What sort of harness was replaced, just a pigtail and connector?
Possible....Bad connections in the patched new harness/connector? (twist-n-tape isn't a great repair)
Mis-wired, no longer in correct order at the plug?

Poor connections in other connectors on up the harness all the way to the computer?
Terminal tension check on all of the female pins from the sensor all the way to the computer?

Test for power/ground/5v in the sensor connector?

The blue wire goes directly to the PCM.
The other two wires go to the splice packs on top of the valve cover before heading to their final destinations (either ground G101 or main relay #1), so there are several possible spots that could have issues. Might need a wiring diagram to see splice pack breakdowns.