AlexFromCali

Problem started maybe yesterday when it would idle at 1.1k rpm but then drop to 700.

Today as i roll to a stop sign or slow my rate of speed (depressing brake) my idle rpm would drop to 200-300 or just shut off completely to the point where i can hear the throttle body shut and stop hissing (Short ram intake). Sometimes it would go to 200-300 but jump to 700 or jump to 1k and die off or keep running.

It seemed like it could idle fine as long as the car wasn't moving to begin with, I had Live Data OBDII on, no codes.

The RPM rarely fluctuated but when it did usually travelling slow or in between shifts and the CEL would flash for a split second only once.

One time it stalled and Battery/Oil light turned on (ON Position, Motor wasn't running anymore) and the CEL flashed X amount of times.

Each time the car would start back up no problem, it would crank right away but it might have hesitated to catch for a split second.

The car would have no problem shifting otherwise or accelerating. It's something to do with idle. Could it be the IACV? it's a short ram intake so i wouldn't doubt it gets dirtier faster. The air filter is AEM with less than 2k miles on it.

I had a problem losing oil but after topping it off one last time it's maintained maximum fill ever since. (I was fearing i had bad piston rings)

Could it be my cat converter that's integrated with the manifold?

It's not cam/crank sensor related whatsoever.
Is it not compression issue due to no problem cranking?
It's not the battery for sure (less than 3k miles). Alternator was used but i had it tested 3k miles ago that it was operating fine. I took it on the freeway last night, it ran fine, and i'm sure the battery was charged up.

ezone

???? Seems like it should be a clue...
Loose or corroded small ground wires on the top water neck?

Will it show any live data?
TPSv, ECT *, MAPv ?

What is the MAP voltage reading at hot idle, no load, in park?

AlexFromCali

I'll get to you tommorow. I'll check grounds.
The CEL flashed for a split second whenever the RPM would stutter/fluctuate but seemed like it automatically corrected itself (Cam sensor?) by shooting back up to the proper RPM in relation to throttle.
It flashed 5 times in the ON position what does that mean? I read it can be compression, plugs, rotors, etc

ezone

This is explained in the owners manual under emissions testing. All it means is the OBD2 onboard monitors have not completed yet and the car is not ready for an emissions test.

AlexFromCali

Okay cool ill stay posted tmrw

NDNV

I think you have a 2003. This TSB is for a 2001 for excessive camshaft endplay but maybe relevant in your case? http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/th...1_and_1362.pdf

AlexFromCali

Yes. 03 D17a1 Civic LX 2 DR.. Automatic.
I wouldn't doubt excessive camshaft play because ITS ONLY after i hit my first STOP. If i start the car i can keep driving without stopping till my gas runs out (My hypothesis).
I can also start the car and idle for XXX minutes without stalling or having any idle issues.

That frontward jerk can and will move the camshaft.... So i'll see my course of action after I deal with the TB instead of pulling the valve cover and dealing with the rocker arms.
You know what, the sensor harness isn't clipped to anything and does vibrate like a bitch. The brand new cam sensor that was working fine 2 months prior hasn't loosened from its connection. I'll deal with the harness. And i'll deal with the intake. Stay posted.

AlexFromCali

Bump. Can I spray throttle body cleaning into the IACV through the two hose pins that stick out? Will it dry out completely and will it be safe to put it back onto my car after having sprayed it clean?

ezone

You mean spray into the nipples for the coolant hoses? NO.

If you want to clean the IAC you need to deal with the air passage openings inside the throttle body, not the coolant openings.

AlexFromCali

****KKK. Yo man, how do I get those 3 son of a bitch philips screws that connects the IACV to the TB????
4 hour response would be

ezone

Enlist a rabid badger to gnaw them off.

Remove the whole throttle body then remove IAC valve?

AlexFromCali

I tried removing the IACV valve with the throttle body on the manifold
I tried removing the IACV valve with the throttle body clamped to a work bench.

How do I get the three philips screws off that feel like atleast 16tftlbs+ tightened without stripping the + Thread.

10 second response would be appreciated

At this point is seems like buying a throttle body for 50$ would be easier than taking those bolts off :P

ezone

4 hours

AlexFromCali

At this point I want to try starting up the car, is it safe to do so? I aired out and washed the IACV valve out and it's been overnight since I put the TB cleaner through it. I just didn't manage to get the bolts off because I feel like I can't do it without having to tap them out.

BTW I have to go to work in 4 hours so i'll be gone for 10 and by the time I'm back I won't have time to do my car. I'm sitting in my garage with 4 hours to blow.

ezone

Impact driver with a #2 Phillips ACR bit
Vise-grips
Knipex pliers
Just a little heat?

Don't take the IAC valve off, just set it on its side and fill the IAC passages with cleaner and let it sit a while?

AlexFromCali

Alright thanks for the suggestions. i'll go for it. 4 hours to blow until i go to make more money

AlexFromCali

Bump. I did not separate the IACV from the TB. I simply shot throttle body cleaner through the coolant nipples, flooding it out several times. I also shot throttle body cleaner through the slot that is in the throttle cylinder that runs down through a hole at the mating surface towards the intake manifold.

I made sure it was all dry. It's stupid and cheap to do it this way, but it's better if you aren't sure if you can get the IACV off without breaking it in the first place. I blew through the coolant nipples and the cylinder with my mouth to ensure there was no scent of the cleaner (try not to inhale the fumes, just follow the scent).

I did polish the whole throttle body. BE MINDFUL OF THE SENSORS. You can and WILL damage the sensors or their casings simply by corrosive cleaners such as CARB/TB/WD40?

I did lubricate the throttle body spring for the accelerator cables.

This is intake, you want to be clean while working on it. And you want it to be clean as a final product. Less dust/particles in your engine bay and your throttle body will benefit you in the long run if you care about maintenance and durability.

I knew it was the IACV after research. WHEN your car is IDLE, the IACV allows sufficient air to maintain RPMs at 650-750 (Or spec). So if my car would idle fine at initial startup until my gas tank would eventually drain.... But it would stall as soon as i drive forward and hit the breaks, something was clogging. I'm sure it didn't stall at initial standstill due to a clear path of air, but something was definitely messing up.

I had the negative cable off, pulled the fuse 15 for ecu, checked everything, cleaned my car.... Put the negative cable on, put the fuse in, and idled for more than 8 minutes. It went from 1.1k RPM startup, to idle at 900-500. It looked like a solid 700xx RPM idle, I shut it off, finished cleaning my car and what not... Started it up and went for a test run.

Not sure if it matters but I would drive a loop around my residential area hitting 2k RPM, dropping back to 1k and then finally as soon as your ECU adjusts to fuel injection and air intake, you can start hitting high RPMs with little to no problems.

In your face idle problem and rabid badgers.

ezone

So problem solved? Kools.