SolidHollow

I am having some intermittent issues with my civic recently and I am hoping someone can set me in the right direction to figuring out what's wrong.

Recently my car has had a problem cranking after it has warmed up. If I kill the car after driving a bit and try to crank it again, it does not want to ignite. If i pump the pedal, I get a smell of raw gas from the tail pipe. Once the car completely cools off it will start fine.

Also at the same time I am experiencing another problem with the car after it heats up. When I come to a complete stop and I try to hit the gas to accelerate, the engine dips really low right to the point where it feels like the car is going to die. I feel no reaction in the pedal and after stalling for a brief moment, it takes off since the pedal is depressed. If I let off the break first and let the car begin to idle forward before giving it gas it wont have an issue.

Both these problems begin after the car has been running for a while but has not happened every time I have used the car. Since they started at the same time I believe the two are most likely related.

I would appreciate it if anyone can shine some light on the situation. Thanks

ezone

CEL on?
Got fault codes?

SolidHollow

No engine light; so I haven't got it checked.

ezone

I'd plug in my scanner anyway and see if there are any codes.

If no relevant codes then I'd be scrutinizing the engines operating data looking for any sensor reading that seems out of the ordinary.

My scanner can take a 'snapshot' of an event, record a timespan of data for later review. Hit record when it acts up then save for later review.



Got a scanner? Got Scangauge, bluetooth and phone app, or similar that can read data from the PCM?

Check cam timing?

Colin42

try cleaning the IAC? my old truck used to do almost the same thing and the IAC was full of crap, cleaned it out real good and the idle issues went away.

SolidHollow

Thanks for the replies. I don't have a scanner but I will look into the things that have been suggested and report back when time allows. Thx

SolidHollow

I finally got time to report back here. I haven't cleaned the IAC yet. I did do some reading on the symptoms of a dirty IAC and for the most part they don't line up with my issue exactly. I have no CEL, engine noises, stalling while idling or any idle issues for that matter, ect.... The stalling is only happening when first attempting to accelerate.

I am starting to believe that my problem is something electrical. I checked my TPS with a voltmeter and the volt ranges went smoothly up and down as I opened and closed the throttle but the strange thing was that when I wasn't messing with the throttle the volt meter was all over the place more than just a little bit. after playing with various wires I got the meter to stop jumping around. I took the car out that night and it ran worse than any time previously so I didn't really know what to make of all that.

Other than that I figure I should mention that at the time all this began my dome light stopped working and my airbag light has come on permanently.
The last night it ran really bad I noticed that my temperature gauge dropped flat and my oil light was blinking as the car was stalling upon acceleration.

I did take the car to Autozone to have it checked for codes and it only threw a code for a coolant temperature sensor. I'm guessing from that night the temperature gauge dropped. However my sensor is working again for now.

I took the car out today to test drive it and I didn't have any issues at all. I ran it for about 45 minutes and the there may have been some slight sluggishness in the acceleration but nothing like what has been previously happening.

It sounds to me that the problem is electrical since so many things are tripping up at once. How would one go about locating the source of the problem if it is? Can anyone give me an educated guess on where to start looking given the array of problems I've mentioned here? All help is appreciated. Thanks

ezone

Pick one thing you already know is affected, attach test equipment so it can be monitored while driving.....drive until it acts up and see what part is not right.

i.e. if a light bulb were going dim once in a while, you would monitor both wires to it (power AND ground) and whichever one ends up with screwy readings when it goes dim is the side to pursue further.


Look at all affected items in wiring diagrams, look for some common denominator?

Alternator mounting bolts, are they tight?
Engine major grounds, are they clean and tight?
Computer and system grounds on top of the upper radiator hose neck, clean and tight?

SolidHollow

Thanks for the reply. Will look into it and get back with you further.