sam31444

Hi all,

So I am having issues with my vehicle let me give you a quick run down and see if anyone has had this issue or knows anything further.

Two weeks before I started having problems I changed out my A/C compressor. While I changed it I had to remove the alternator as well as replaced both belts.

Upon replacing the compressor the car ran fine with no issues for two weeks. About halfway to work I was driving on the highway and the car threw a CEL as well as completely shut down at the same time. When I got it over to the side of the highway I quickly checked it out and started the car back up and was able to drive it to an auto store very close to my work. The code reader at the auto store indicated a Crankshaft Position Sensor. So I called the shop up and made an appointment and got to work. Mind you the car still was running kinda shitty and needed a constant pulse of gas in order to maintain some sort of idle.

On my way to the shop the car there was no CEL on the dash and car seemed to drive fine. Once it got to highway speeds again it shut off and would not get up to highway speed and needed to be towed. Once it got to the shop they were unable to get a reading from the computer at all... and had me bring it to an electric specialist.

Once I got it to the electric specialist he checked it over and could find no reason for electrical problems and told me the computer was burnt on the car and needed to go to the dealer to be replaced. In addition to the computer nothing on the dash will work (spedo,tach, temp and I have a constant green blinking key indicating a problem with the ignition reading the key yet it still will start up). The only indication I had leading up to this issue was a battery light that came on the dash for around two seconds and dissapeared.

Upon researching I have found this to be a common issue with this generation vehicle when the alternator is replaced. With citation to the following thread.
HERE

My question is has anyone else run across this problem? I dont want to change the computer out only to fry another one after all that work. What should I start looking into at this point?

ezone

You didn't tighten the bolts enough?

Read post #16 in the thread you linked, EDIT: damn link isn't any good now.... just a sec

ezone

Try this link

http://www.underhoodservice.com/tech-tip-honda-engine-won-t-start-check-for-loose-alternator-bolts/

and

http://www.brakeandfrontend.com/tech-tip-honda-engine-won-t-start-check-for-loose-alternator-bolts/

There can be more and different symptoms than just those listed.

emich

I had exactly the same problem for . The car was acting out after I was driving for 30-40min. in hot weather. throwing code for cam sensor. Changing the sensor didn't help.
after an hour or two when engines cools it was fine. After many headaches it turned out that one of the connectors of the fuel injector or the injector itself was bad and the cylinder was not working properly as a result the exhaust valve was a bent a little dropping the compression by 25 psi comparing to the other cylinders.
Checking the compression earlier was the proper approach to the problem.