JAMorganIII

I have an 02 lx. My a/c has quit. If I have it on when the car is cranked, it'll turn on for a second then off (under hood) but will not blow. The green "on" light comes on. I pulled the blower motor and tested it and it works. I'm getting power to the blower motor as I checked it with a test light. Getting power to resistor next to the blower motor. I jumped the plug on the resistor to see if it was the issue and the fan came on. However, when I replaced the resistor, the motor didn't come on. So far I've replaced the blower motor resistor and relay in the under hood fuse block. Replaced the a/c compressor relay and inspected all fuses tied into the a/c system and it still won't blow. Any help would be appreciated as it's already hitting 100 with heat index where I live. Thanks.

ezone

Did you use a factory power transistor?

Have you checked for fault codes in the HVAC control panel?

Got a service manual that tells how to diagnose the power transistor/fan problem?

JAMorganIII

I bought all the parts from advance auto. Is there a difference?

ezone

Depends.

JAMorganIII

I had the codes run today. Only an O2 sensor code popped up, no a/c codes.

ezone

The HVAC self test is done on the HVAC control panel, there is no way to retrieve HVAC codes through an engine code reader.



Self test:

Begin with the key OFF.

Turn the fan **** to OFF
Hold down the RECIRC and rear window defogger buttons
Turn the ignition switch to ON (do not start the engine)
Let go of the 2 buttons

Recirc and rear defog buttons light up,
recirc goes out in like 2 seconds then AC light comes on...
then shortly (maybe 10 seconds) the self test finishes and AC light goes out.

If there are codes the recirc light will now blink a code number.
If no codes the recirc light stays off.


----------
I also found this link:

http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/honda/1.7L/blower-motor-resistor-test-2

JAMorganIII

The light blinked 11 times, but I haven't been able to find a code listing to see what that code is for. Is there a thread on here for that?

ezone

Code 11 is for "a problem in the mode control linkage, doors, or motor"


Do the mode controls work? Can you hear the servo motor run when you change from vents to floor to defrost? (I'd say check air flow but that's kinda impossible right now)


It seems like that code shouldn't have any relation to the current blower motor problem.

CraigW

iTrader: (1)

Do you still have your original transistor ??

I have a test you can try to help narrow.

JAMorganIII

Yes I still have it.

CraigW

iTrader: (1)

What shape was the cabin filter in ???

With the original transistor back in place.

Set fan to ON, at any speed.

Lower the glove box down, and remove the cabin filter.

Watch the round white blades of the fan after you VERY FIRST turn the key to II for any slight bump or movement.

If you have movement then the original likely has an open TCO. ( it could be jumpered across for temporary testing)

ezone

He could open up the unit and ohm check the TCO

Blazz

Is the blower motor working at all. Do you have Heat?. I'm going on your fist post not sure what going on here do you have a AC problem or blower fan problem?
is its ac only?

You said in your first post.. it'll turn on for a second then off (under hood)
R you saying the ac clutch, fan system turn on for a sec? or the blower in car? Do you have heat? you may need to use a jumper wire to force ac
pump to kick in.. if its low or leaking the ac clutch system will need to be manually jumped to get it going

ezone

It's a blower fan problem.

The AC is shut down @2 seconds by the HVAC controller because of the blower fan not working.

HTH

JAMorganIII

The clutch under hood shuts off after a couple secs. I do not have heat either. With the blower motor, I took it out and straight wired it to test it and it came on. Also when back in the car, I jumped the resistor plug and it came on. Could it still be bad?

ezone

You proved the fan motor is capable of operating when all HVAC controls are bypassed.
That doesn't necessarily prove it 100% good or bad though.


You need to figure out why the HVAC system doesn't operate it.

JAMorganIII

Last night I had heat on the way home. But it wasn't blowing from the motor pushing the air, but just blowing from the driving forcing air through. I couldn't feel it yesterday because I was just sitting.

CraigW

iTrader: (1)

Did you perform this very simple test ??

emich

Hello ezone


Can you help? I have a problem with my a/c clutch not engaging after replacing the bearing. the coil is fine the clutch works when I wire it directly to the + terminal of the battery. I did self test
no codes the recirc. light stays off.


Also do you have an idea from where I can download the green 2001 2002 2003 2004 Honda Civic Shop Service Repair Manual Book Guide OEM


I need step by step guidance to check CEL P0147 for the downstream O2 sensor. I have the voltage at the harness and resistance in the sensor.


Thanks

JAMorganIII

OK. Finally got a chance to check it. Cabin filters were clogged and blower motor did move a little when I turned on the key so I assume it's the tco. However, I cannot locate it under the dash and cannot find a location listed in Haynes manual or through Google. Can anyone tell me it's location? Thanks.

ezone

Follow the fan motor wires to a 4 wire plug sticking out of the side of the blower housing. That's the "power transistor", 2 screws hold it in the housing.



You can remove and replace it or open it up and try other stuff like testing the TCO or replacing it.

JAMorganIII

I already replaced the transistor and it didn't solve the problem. I want to test the tco but can't locate it.

ezone

The TCO is the thermal fuse inside the power transistor.

CraigW

iTrader: (1)

Was the replacement new ??

Both transistors give same results ??

Yes, TCO is on the transistor assy, Ohm them out.

Search the web, it has photos of the location on the transistor, and of tco's.

IIRC 114 degrees C is the rating.