overheating with no heat and coolant loss/overflow
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So first off I would like to say that I am new to the Honda fourm, so I'm not all up to date with this. Anyways my 2002 honda civic has been overheating a lot lately and I honestly have no clue what to do now, it overheats while driving and also when idling. When it overheats I get no heat inside (just cold air) and the fans kick in. I originally checked the coolant overflow tank and it was empty, so I put some in. Drove for about half an hour and it overheated again, checked the coolant and it was right to the cap on the overflow tank. Took it back to my work and they thought it was an air lock, so they tried that, still nothing, they also replaced the thermostat and the rad fans. And it's been still overheating with no heat and also the coolant has been disappearing and then reappearing. Does anybody know what is causing this problem?
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Re: overheating with no heat and coolant loss/overflow
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L00sid (01-10-2024)
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head gasket like everyone has said. when the head gasket blows combustion gases get pushed into the coolant system and blows the coolant back into the reservoir tank and then eventually out the cap and all over the engine.
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L00sid (01-10-2024)
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wouldn't it be overheating all the time? My engine only overheats about 2 times a day, it doesn't overheat all the time. One it does overheat and I keep driving, the tempature does go down to normal operating level. but it sometimes also overheats when I'm idling.
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Yes Iv read that link, what i am asking is if it could still be a blown head gasket if its not always overheating and also it does go down to normal operating tempature heat blowing in the cab.
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yes it will still overheat. it may stay under temp while driving but that's because air is pushing through the radiator. then when you stop moving, you loose the air flow and it over heats. i would get your HG fixed before you're stuck on the side of the road.
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Re: overheating with no heat and coolant loss/overflow
Sorry to say, but good luck even getting a new headgasket to fit correctly on that engine. Sounds like it has overheated so many times, it has probably warped the hell out of the head.
Don't be surprised if the shop has to send it away to get machined, or if the new HG job doesn't even work.
If you car ever overheats, STOP RUNNING IT and surely, STOP LETTING IT OVERHEAT!
Don't be surprised if the shop has to send it away to get machined, or if the new HG job doesn't even work.
If you car ever overheats, STOP RUNNING IT and surely, STOP LETTING IT OVERHEAT!
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So I got my work to do a compression test and it came up with 160psi, 160psi, 145psi and 160psi, they told me that there is obviously a pressure drop but that its not the head gasket. Another symptom iv come into is a coolant kind of smell only when using my ac. Since the weather is nicer out now iv turned it on and it just smells. Would all my problems be from a bad heater core instead of a head gasket?
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Yea I have heat ( not when it overheats) but its only when I turn on the ac iv been smelling a wierd smell like coolant.
#13
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
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So what should I do, we dont have the chemical tester and they refuse to get one. But they told me I can get the head gakset replaced but they said they are not 100% sure thats the problem. Im just trying to keep the honda on the road, damn thing just wants to break down.
#15
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: overheating with no heat and coolant loss/overflow
From the link provided in reply #2:
This is the ONLY test that has been 100% reliable for me on this particular engine.
HTH
I'm darn lazy and I don't like pulling a head without definite proof
My procedure:
Start with a hot engine, pull out plugs and rad cap:
Pressurize each cylinder (@TDC, one at a time) with shop air line pressure 150-170+ PSI.
Watch for the coolant level to rise when you get to the bad one. (sometimes this is a slow process)
If no results, then wait for the engine to cool down and repeat this same procedure on each cylinder.
My procedure:
Start with a hot engine, pull out plugs and rad cap:
Pressurize each cylinder (@TDC, one at a time) with shop air line pressure 150-170+ PSI.
Watch for the coolant level to rise when you get to the bad one. (sometimes this is a slow process)
If no results, then wait for the engine to cool down and repeat this same procedure on each cylinder.
HTH
Last edited by ezone; 05-22-2015 at 06:54 PM.
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Re: overheating with no heat and coolant loss/overflow
I'm having overheating myself too.i changed water pump,thermostat and took it to the dealership this morning and they said they didn't find any issues that could cause the overheating. They said they leave it to idle for over an hour with the heater on and still the heater gauge didn't went above normal. They check for head damage and still didn't find anything, they said the head gasket is ok .They told me its $120.00 to diagnostic and when they finish they told me I dont owe nothing..what? How someone work but didn't charge.?when it overheat it Los power and it was making a funny sound when I tried to start it. It just keeps on going on when someone stuttering when I tried starting it today. When it starts it has no power. I let it idle for almost an hour to see if its air in it while adding coolant and took it for a long drive but the problem still persists..I ran out of ideas and options right now. My next last option is to replace the engine. Can a good experience mechanic give some advice please.? It would help a lot.
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Re: overheating with no heat and coolant loss/overflow
When a D series headgasket fails, it fails to hold back combustion gases. There is different levels of leakage that can occur.
The combustion pressure on the cylinder walls is far less at idle than driving and it’s possible yours doesn’t leak much at all at idle.
You mentioned you had to add coolant already after having it at the dealer, definitely indicator.
Car sputtering on startup and no power is not related to headgasket leaks, except if the engine is overheated at the time.
The combustion pressure on the cylinder walls is far less at idle than driving and it’s possible yours doesn’t leak much at all at idle.
You mentioned you had to add coolant already after having it at the dealer, definitely indicator.
Car sputtering on startup and no power is not related to headgasket leaks, except if the engine is overheated at the time.
#19
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Re: overheating with no heat and coolant loss/overflow
It sputters only when it overheated..not when cold.it started overheating shortly after changing my stock air filter to The K&N aftermarket one. It maybe sucking too much hot air into the engine.its really hot here in Texas too so I dont know I might try changing the filter back to stock n see what will happen.
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