KoiFish

Hi Guys,

I have a 2002 Honda Civic 4D LX with a manual transmission.

I recently discovered 3 out of my 4 CV boots were torn. I opted to just replace the axles as it was not that much more expensive then to get the boots.

I followed Brobo's DIY article (https://www.civicforums.com/forums/1...-one-made.html). The only bolts that were removed besides the lug nuts were the 32mm axle nut, the 2 19mm strut bolts, and the brake line bracket. No other bolts were touched.

I removed the old axles and installed the new ones. Tightened up everything with a torque wrench and followed the specifications off my official green honda service manual.

Now under acceleration the car pulls noticeably to the left. When cruising the car is straight and true, also no problems under braking either. During slow turns I feel a slight wobble from the steering wheel.

I asked a friend who is a service advisor for Acura and he told me to check if my CV joints were not pulled apart during installation. I tore down the car again and double checked everything and could not find anything amiss.


During installation I did have to get a wood block and hammer to tap in the axles, I was having a hard time with the "C - Clip/Ring", but they were moderate taps nothing too hard. The axles were purchased as a set off of eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/301148033686?_trksid=p2060778.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT). I lined up the old axles and new axles and indeed they are the same lengths.

I am going to hit the hay for tonight and start up again tomorrow, hoping you guys might have better insight than me on this.

RIPSAW

Are you sure it did not pull from the beginning. Ever Honda I have ever had has done it. I have an 05 CRV that you would not dare punch it with out a grip on the steering wheel. However, forgot which way and am away from cars. The axles are way different in length and angle. However, if the were rebuilt improperly..another matter. You should always check them by pivoting and sliding them in and out a little. They should be free and easy. Also, no excessive looseness trying to wring them back and fort while lying all straight and square on a table. Hard to tell what you would get in rebuilds from a Auto part store. I picked up a steering rack and one end was so tight back in the boot, you simply could not flex it. They assured me it would free up. Needless to say, I passed. Sadly to say, you need to have had one of theses apart to really know what to look for it how they should fill or trust your supplier. I trust no one and is why I rebuild with OEM boots. Including my calipers. (if they look good once inside)

ezone

Check tire pressures.
Swap the 2 front tires side to side, see if the pull changes to the other direction.

Inspect LCA bushings, ball joints, tie rod ends, etc.

Look for any suspension items that could move and allow alignment change as the wheel(s) pull forward.

It may need a wheel alignment now. Even though there doesn't seem like a lot of slop in the strut-knuckle bolt holes, it is significant and can allow a half degree of camber change on original bolts (more if bolts have been changed for adjustability), and a lot of toe change goes with any changes in camber.

sdaidoji

iTrader: (1)

^ what ezone said - he beat me to it.

KoiFish

Update:

I want to post an update in case it helps some poor soul in the future.


I went through and inspected all drivetrain and suspension components. My LCA bushings had some light cracks but not separated, but I replaced all the bushings while I was in there anyways. The boots to the lower ball joints were torn so I replaced both of them. Same story with the sway bar links, I replaced both sets. My strut/springs are brand new I replaced them in December. Steering linkages look like they are in good shape. I made sure everything was torqued right via my service manual. Swapped both wheels as suggested by Ezone and took the Civic for a spin. No change, still pulls to the left.

I then removed my passenger side axle and reinstalled my old OEM axle and the problem went away. I then proceeded to contact the distributor and explained my findings. After sending them my Civic VIN number and pictures and they shipped me a brand new passenger side axle. They confirmed that they shipped me the right one and that maybe the one they originally sent me was defective.

Once I received it, I installed it and low and behold the problem came back. Something is just not compatible with their axle and my Civic. I contacted them again and they just refunded me the cost of the axle. The brand axles they use is "Surtrack".

I then went to Advanced Auto Parts and purchased a "Tough One" brand passenger side axle, and this one is working for me. So in the end my driver side axle is a "Surtrack" and my passenger side axle is a "Tough One".

I now have a very minor problem when turning I feel a very slight vibration from the driver side wheel and then it moves to the passenger side wheel. I am going to get a wheel balance and alignment soon and hope that fixes it. I have a feeling though its the driver side "Surtrack" axle, but its so minor I can live with it.

Of course hindsight is 20/20, but have I known I would have either just purchased the Honda "Boot Kits" or just purchased Honda OEM axles and saved me a lot of frustration and time. I guess that is what happens when you go aftermarket on certain items.

KoiFish

Also thanks for everybodys time regarding this issue. Every time I have a issue with my Civic I can always find the answers I am looking for here. Hopefully this thread will help somebody else.

sdaidoji

iTrader: (1)

Holy c...

That's new for me... maybe it did not fully seat into the diff, pushing assembly outwards...

Thanks for feedback, hope all goes well now.

ezone

I wouldn't have expected an axle to cause it either.