CV Joints bad after changing balljoints/struts/tierods?
#1
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So as it says above I have a 2002 GX on which I just changed the ball joints, suspension (full unit, coil, strut, etc) and tie rod ends. Everything went fine on the installation but I did have to remove the hubs to change the ball joints. When I was pulling the axle out of the hub i noticed that the axle had play. When I say play I mean that I could pull on the axle and push it back in which seemed a little odd to me. Anyway after I put it all together the car is making noises and sort jumps (a hobble jump with acceleration) past 25 mph. I can also hear a loud clicking at times when turning. Is it possible that our of nowhere from changing those parts and removing the axles from the hub that my CV's went bad? i didn't notice any sort of clicking or anything before changing these parts. I double checked everything and it is all tight and seems okay. The CV's look okay, no torn boots or anything. Also if I change the car into drive from reverse and vice versa it will make a loud click noise after it shifts.
Any help?
Any help?
Last edited by b_rayd; 12-30-2014 at 11:30 PM. Reason: correction
#2
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: CV Joints bad after changing balljoints/struts/tierods?
The CV joints were not bad, the shaft is supposed to move in and out of the inboard joint.......but it sounds like you over-extended yours to the point a roller probably came off. Now it needs taken apart and corrected if it hasn't already been damaged, or just replace the damaged alxe(s).
#4
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: CV Joints bad after changing balljoints/struts/tierods?
Know not to do it, and avoid doing it?
Did you understand what is meant by 'overextend'?
Did you understand what is meant by 'overextend'?
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#6
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: CV Joints bad after changing balljoints/struts/tierods?
Extend would be 'make it longer'.
Overextend was 'made it TOO long'.
If you grab the 2 joints and pull them away from each other, the inboard joint comes apart, there is no retainer inside the joint cup to keep the important parts inside it.
If one of those rollers comes off the "spider", you end up with the complaints you have.
This usually happens after the lower ball joint comes apart and one yanks the knuckle outward while the stub of the outer CV joint is still stuck in the hub. The inboard joint was still stuck in the trans, the axle was extended too far, the inner joint came apart.
Helpful diagram?
Overextend was 'made it TOO long'.
If you grab the 2 joints and pull them away from each other, the inboard joint comes apart, there is no retainer inside the joint cup to keep the important parts inside it.
If one of those rollers comes off the "spider", you end up with the complaints you have.
This usually happens after the lower ball joint comes apart and one yanks the knuckle outward while the stub of the outer CV joint is still stuck in the hub. The inboard joint was still stuck in the trans, the axle was extended too far, the inner joint came apart.
Helpful diagram?
#7
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: CV Joints bad after changing balljoints/struts/tierods?
You could remove the axle and carefully peel apart the bands and boot from the inner CV joint and inspect to see if I was correct. And you can then see more about how it works.
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