VeloSi

I just got this car and bought it knowingly that it had a condition that relay issues was going on. The previous owner said he changed both the PGM FI and the Fuel pump relays behind the glove box, and he gave me the old ones as proof and the relays on the car look very new.

When you crank the car, the FI(left relay) starts clicking for about 30 seconds, within those 30 secs the car begins and hesitates throughout, the temp gauge hovers up and down and the check engine light flashes on and off. Within this period I can rev the motor all the way before the relay clicks again,its a split second thing. Once the clicking completely stops the car settles down and the CEL stays lit and temp gauge sometimes gets normal or stays dropped but most concerning is this problem I think it's responsible for the limit of RPM then my motor receives.... My RPM gauge is dropped so I can't get no RPM reads but I would guess the motor cuts off at around 2000 RPM when I want to take it out for a drive once past the 30 second clicking period after I start up the car. It's a 5-speed so you all must imagine how extremely shortened that first gear is.

Luckily I work at an autopart store and bought me an oem Mitusaba brand relay from there, as one car it has now is from china but I don't think that matters since problem still persisted once I replaced with the japanese one. I even put in the old one the previous owner originally replaced just to see what happens and yea it's the same story.

So now I am clueless as a ship of bricks about this what should I do now !?!

mikey1

no offense, but if you buy somebody elses problems (knowingly) you should know how to fix them

RIPSAW

There is an expert on here that will chime in here shortly. Sorry, can only help keep your thread on top. How many miles on car?

VeloSi

No offense, but when you use the internet you should know how to type properly. And secondly I'm confident I came to the right place about my car problem and I don't think that makes me subject to a random somebody's irrelevant opinion. #gobefriendspellcheck

VeloSi

186K miles, thanks appreciate the thread bump . This is a common issue within the honda/acura commnity It seems telling from googling this problem however I see no fixes but other than soldering the relays but 2 relays can't be defective can they.

RIPSAW

At 186K, could it be the fuelpump? If you just key it on, can you hear the 2-3 second run of the fuelpump run from the timer running it without the engine running?

ezone

This sounds like the PCM is in the process of burning up (If you check for codes while it's acting wrong, it probably can't communicate with a scanner)......Usual cause is someone left the alternator bolts loose during the last timing belt service or the last alternator replacement.

Or bad powertrain grounds. Anything that would cause the alternator to lose its ground path. Hope it hasn't burned out the ECM.

VeloSi

yea I hear it loud and clear. And right now I just cranked the car and heard no relay clicks whatsoever! First time this has happened to me with this car actually. Temp gauge was working fine and no out of whack misfire although there is still a little sputter, however the RPM limit was still there... I turned car off tried again and the clicking is back with all of it's 30 second symptoms.....

VeloSi

Just checked the alternator bolts and they are firmly put and yes you are right I am not able to pull out any codes with the scanner.

ezone

Break the alt mount bolts loose then retorque them (if the bolts or bracket threads are damaged this may not be possible)

14mm upper bolt 33 ft-lb
12mm lower bolt 17 ft-lb
14mm bolt where lower bracket attaches to the block, 33 ft-lb


This is such a common problem, there was even a bulletin about it. Here's a copy:
Bulletin link: http://www.underhoodservice.com/tech...ernator-bolts/
Note, there can be several other symptoms than what is listed in that info.


Also check:
Ground cable from the battery to the body and to the trans: inspect, take apart every connection point, wire brush to clean shiny metal.
Ground strap from radiator area to the upper hose neck on the engine.
Ground wires eyelet on the same hose neck.


Put a voltmeter on the battery, see if the alt is overcharging like over 16 volts. I don't think you will see anything wrong here though.



The ECM going haywire and going into limp mode is usually a symptom of another problem. (I've not yet witnessed an ECM failing like this without another cause.)

If you can't find the root cause of the problem, it's going to burn up the ECM, if it hasn't already done so.
It will continue to ruin the next replacement ECMs if you don't figure out the root cause of the problem.


HTH

VeloSi

Thanks for the response, really do appreciate it! but I lack alot of car tools so I just couldn't get into all of that thought I did check the connections to the alt and they are definitely fit. I then so took the car to a local gas station garage and since they couldn't get a read with a scanner they told me I had to replace the ECU first.

But upon inquiring about my ecu with used parts junkers around the city I found out my vehicle had a 1989 Acura Integra ECU on the car, and two people told me this when I gave them my ECU numeration. And the ECU I am looking for it is very difficult to find, well I didn't find it yet anywhere, apparently they all for AT's . So I just sold my car for cheap to a mechanic that came after my craigslist for sale posting and he said the problem was an oxygen sensor......lol. I sure did not ask him for a business card haha.

Here is a pic of the ECU my car had


If anyone in here is in need of a hard part to find I recommend Car-Part.com, has lists of junkers around your zipcode with piece you might be looking for, too bad I couldn't find one MT ECU for my car not even within 350 miles!

ezone

That part number 37820-PLR-L07 has been superseded in the catalog listings, but that was the right computer for your car.

Definitely not an Acura number.