johjoh

Hey guys, i've tried finding something like the issue I have but could not relate.

So here it is, I have an 04 3DR with a d17 (no vtec) manual trans,
Its my winter beater and I parked it outside in the summer, started fine few weeks ago, then the starter went bad, replaced that starts fine

but now I have the low oil pressure light that lit up, even if the keys are REMOVED from the ignition the light stays ON. tried starting it the next day with no avail, boosted the car and fired up nice

the only way to remove the light is to disconnect the battery. Now I know I found a mice when I removed it from storage but since there was no problems before I changed the starter I do not think it ravaged anything in the engine comp.

I still have to change out that oil but something cant be right for the light to remain on with the keys removed from the ignition, any insight?

ezone

Sounds like you have an electrical problem, as though something is keeping power applied on the 'meter' fuse circuit (and probably others) when it should be off.

It's killing your battery too, I take it?

Common places to check might include:
Unplug the connectors for the ignition switch
Unplug the radio

johjoh

Yes it did kill my battery, atleast i have an insight on where to start, thanks

Sheirstles

you should probably have your oil pressure checked using a mechanical guage to determine if it is within specs, when the oil is cold it will normally run at a higher pressure when the engine warms up it will be at a lower pressure and at its lowest at low rpms or at idle, if your pressure checks ok then you likely have a bad sending unit, if it does not you either have a weak oil pump or excessive clearances in the engine bearings causing the pressure to be low, general rule of thumb is 10 psi per 1000 rpm. so you should have atleast 10 psi at low idle speed most sending units will turn on the light if pressure falls below 7psi.

johjoh

The light goes off when the car is started so I can clear off that actual pressure problem - or so I think.

I also noticed the dome light will blink 5x pause then 2x and start the cycle again.
I have pinpointed the circuit to fuse #4 but have no clue what it is.

Since I removed the fuse and put it back in, started the car now my CEL came on. I will try to pull the codes shortly

ezone

MICU is somehow going into diagnostic mode?
MICU doing stupid stuff could explain your problem though.

Suggest doing multiplex (MICU) system diagnosis next.

You aren't in the US so I can't be certain this is correct for the car, my info for the interior fusebox has #4 (10A) labeled as 'alternator', and the following items share the same circuit:
A/F sensor relay,
alternator,
cruise control unit,
ELD unit (USA),
EVAP bypass solenoid
EVAP purge valve,
EVAP canister vent shut valve
primary and secondary O2
VSS

johjoh

Removed the #4 fuse over 24hrs and attempted to start the vehicle, the battery still went dead. I will try and pull the codes asap

CraigW

iTrader: (1)

Your #4 may not be the same as US models.

Since #4 did not stop drain you may have search further...

Are your fuses named on the under-hood box cover, or cheat sheet provided for under-dash box, or owners manual ???

johjoh

They are , #4 does say alternator I have checked.

Im getting a obd2 reader from a friend to scan it shortly.


What is an MICU? Sorry for my ignorance of this component

ezone

That's Hondas name for the body computer (or Multiplex System), it's built into the underdash fusebox.

johjoh

So I have scanned and no codes was found, the CEL doesnt even come on.

I have unplugged the largest connector in front of the ECU (passenger dash behind glove box) and the light went off.

Is it possible that the whole ECU needs to be replaced?

ezone

I have not seen this symptom caused by a PCM before and it would be low on my list of suspects, but damn near anything is possible.


Try pulling the gauge cluster out and disconnect it, see if the overnight battery drain goes away?

johjoh

Is that something easy to do or involves a comple dash removal?

2nd EDIT: unplugging the gauges and left to sit 12 hrs, started well. Waited another 18hrs and again it started well.

Will find some gauges and see if issue is fixed

Can I access that connector from underneath?

EDIT: nvm got them out easily. DIY from forums <3

johjoh

Changed out the clusterand the battery stays charged much longer.

Now the parking brake light stays on with the keys REMOVED from the ignition.
Also my CEL came on, again I will try to pull the codes.

ezone

So it sounds like you are winning, but now the light staying on moved to a different spot LOL.

Was the new cluster from a truly identical car?
You know there are probably 2 dozen different versions of the cluster and plugging in the wrong one can cause issues, right?

EDIT: I still might do some power and ground pinout checks at the gauges harness connectors, looking for any that are still powered with the key off and shouldn't be.