bluciv

Hi all new here. I had codes p0300-304, plus load equalizer and evap. I put new plugs in it. Still missing on cylinder 3. Checked compression and 190-195 for 1,2,4 and 65 for 3. When I did this on 1,2,4 there was a pop or gurgle from throttle body. I didn't here it on 3. I'm thinking carboned up intake valve keeping it open? 199k btw. Any feedback accepted. I'm guessing head removal will be in order. I've seen valve cleaning through port but I don't know on this.

ezone

Pull the valve cover and do a valve clearance inspection and adjustment.


If you think carbon, there are products and tricks that can help. Head removal would be a last resort for me.

bluciv

10/4 reading manual diy thread also. I gave it a seafoam bath. She's resting now. lol

bluciv

Are these the correct specs for 1.7 valve clearances?

Intake: 0.18 - 0.22 mm (0.007 - 0.009 in.)
Exhaust: 0.23 - 0.27 mm (0.009 - 0.011 in.)

ezone

Yes.

bluciv

Did a leak down test again. Definitely leaking out the exhaust. I pulled the exhaust manifold of and inspected. It is leaking out of the right side ex valve. The left is dry and the right is wet and air pours out. I did some tapping on valve with seafoam in manifold opening and the damn keeper popped out of the valve. No luck on this one. I saw there was a 1.7 vtech 80 miles away. Head is definitely going to need repair.

bluciv

I also found rebuilt head for $199 exchange. The best now local is $585 for an nonegr engine.

ezone

You gotta pull the head off to fix it now no matter what, right? It may be cheaper to just fix the one bad valve and check the rest, than to buy another "rebuilt" (used) head.


Just thinking out loud....

bluciv

Ya my out loud thinking is sounding the same. btw the other keeper is gone. I looked down oil passages so I don't know. PAP has no 2001-2005 1.7's Birmingham has one but I need to call and then it is hard pressed to get the right info.

ezone

Skinny magnet on an antenna (tool), stick it down the oil return holes and under the cam/rocker areas...Gotta be a small magnet though. Maybe, just maybe you can luck out and find it





Junkyards here won't break open a good engine to rob pieces. They want to sell the whole unit.



Your machine shop should be able to get whatever parts are needed (lost), or you can go through a dealer.

bsmiley

+1
In most cases it will be less expensive to fix yours.

bluciv

The intake manifold bolts are a real B***. I'm just taking a break. Damn near just as easy to pull motor at this point.

bluciv

pic here ya go.

ezone

That didn't take long at all! LOL


Hey, you got a valve stuck wide open. If you were tapping on it when the keeper popped out and got lost, that makes me wonder if the valve contacted the piston and got bent?

That chamber is full of soot and carbon like it's been suffering from low compression and poor combustion for a while.

bluciv

Ya the previous owner said it had been missing for a while. As for te valve out, that was just the picture. It did seem bent but I don't know. Because it would not slide in and out easily. I thought I'd put it back together with PAP head parts but 1.6 has same valve size but not length. They have the same keepers so I assumed they were. NOT. I guess I will be ordering now.

bluciv

Valves came from a 95 civic. I'm wondering if it wasn't a 1.5. I'll just do an order from parts super store.

ezone

Those are two very different valves.

ezone

The exhaust valve part number has been in use in Civics from 1996 to 2015.


1995 was not included in the application list.

bluciv

Thanks for info. I may go out and kick around tomorrow.I should have done it today. Pistons are all quite clean. btw. I ended up just pulling the head off with the intake.

ezone

Found this just now, it's a valve condition chart

http://www.aopa.org/-/media/Files/AO...ster_Final.pdf

bluciv

That was a great link. I found a tore up 1.6 head and went to town. I got a couple valves just in case. I got the head all back together and the head is back on. I got the timing belt on also. Then I called it quits. The 2001 manual is great when you finally find where it is at. Do you run the recommended torque spec of 49ft lb on the head bolts? That is what I used.

ezone

I follow factory specs and I use factory head gaskets.


Others have posted about going higher than spec in the past, but I do not.

bluciv

I'm with ya on the factory spec. I used a Felpro perma torque mls gasket. Hopefully tomorrow night I'll have it running.

bluciv

I got it all back together today. It turns over it will act like it is going to start for about a second and then just whirl over. Try again same thing. I checked for fuel pressure by just tapping port to check for fuel and either I didn't it the valve or there was none. So I popped fuel line and a good pressure and fuel. Any tips? Time to rest my back.

ezone

No tips. Start with rechecking your work.
Grounds!
Cam timing?

Compression, fuel, spark.
Codes?
Immobilizer?
Plugs wet or dry?
Flooded, rings washed, cylinders need oiled?

bluciv

More info. I attempted the start without the air cleaner on if that makes a difference. The sensor in it was still plugged in though. Also what hose goes to the bottom iacv? The top is going to by t-stat. No clue on the bottom one.

ezone

Shouldn't make a difference...


You trying to run it without everything hooked up? What else is unhooked?

Hoses:

ezone

Did you adjust the valve clearances?

bluciv

Thanks for the picture. I'll look for that. I just plugged the bottom of temporary so I could start it. Everything else is hooked up. I'll put the air box on and check that line. I also adjusted the valves after I put the timing belt back on.

bluciv

Thanks found hose and hooked it up. I put the air box on and still no fire up. It acts as if it is going to fire off and then no go. I adjusted the valve intake .20 m and exhaust .25mm per manual.