bluehawk91

Hi everyone,

I'm looking for some suggestion on maintenance. The car mileage is 180,000 Kms and I think she is asking for some attention. We haven't had any maintenance done on this, except for regular oil change of course. There were some brake jobs, timing belt replaced, alternator replaced and ball joint replaced (I'm guessing from the covers). I'd confirm later on.
Edit: I should note this is a second owner and am not sure what maintenance were performed by previous owner. I'm sure he'd have done things as per manual as I believe he had most of the things done by Honda.

I've looked at the manual and I have listed few things for maintenance.
1) Spark Plugs
2) Air Filter
3) Transmission Fluid Change*
4) Coolant Change
5) Power Steering Fluid Change
6) Brake Bleeding
7) Fuel Filter(Do?)
8) Struts Replacement (Front and Rear)**


* Regarding Transmission fluid. Should I do it or not? I'm just little paranoid because it appears 7th gen civic tranmission is not bullet proof. I tested transmission fluid from dipstick and it is starting to get brown but about 85% seems to be pink. It does not smell burned. I tested transmission on a level surface. Put the car in Park, neutral, and drive to see the response. It seems it is immediate. I'd also like to note that I feel car revs more before changing the gears. Is it Honda thing? I drive corolla and it changes gears very smoothly.

**I believe struts also need replacing as the car does not make a ride smooth. It feels like it doesn't have struts at all. I have no way of confirming 100% myself. I'd appreciate your help in diagnosing this issue. It's annoying. Here's 55 seconds audio clip I recorded to demonstrate the noise.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/mlw3wbbuph...20121.mp3?dl=0


So, what are your suggestions/thoughts regarding maintenance? Is this a good list? Am I missing anything?

Thanks very much for taking time to read this!

ezone

Yes to these,
Filter is built into the top of the fuel pump housing in the fuel tank.
Not a usual service unless there is a proven need, but you can do it if you wish.


Absolutely, every 50k km or so. Use the correct Honda fluid.

You cannot compare Honda to Toyota in ride harshness or transmission actions.
The typical Toyota will ride quite a bit softer than a comparable Honda.
The transmissions are NOT alike in any way.


If your Honda transmission is doing something new and unusual, that would be worthy of concern.
If your only issue it that it does not act or shift the same as the Toyota, that's not a valid complaint.

I cannot discern anything significant from your recording.

Light tapping on small bumps could be caused by something small like swaybar links....but someone needs to diagnose the noise concern in person.


-----------------

I will recommend you should visit a professional that is familiar with Hondas to evaluate your noise, inspect the struts, see what the transmission is doing (demonstrate your concerns directly to the technician), and give the car an inspection prior to deciding about maintenance items to be done.




HTH

bluehawk91

Thanks ezone!
Appreciate your input!

I'd take it to a Honda Mechanic for over all evaluation and noise issue. It'd be better if a pro examines the car before I do any maintenance.

Edit: I posted to the wrong clip. That version is a bit longer.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/mlw3wbbuph...20121.mp3?dl=0

ezone

Still not mu..WHOA! OUCH! Was anyone hurt in that accident???

mikey1

what transmission is?

ezone

Allison DDA X-100-3B is supposed to be pretty bulletproof....

Redneck_cdn

Have a close look the front lower engine mount, the rubber tabs inside the mount tend to tear with age.

Check the sway bar links front and rear as they tend to fall apart with our wonderful roads and winter weather.

Inspect the lower control arms for excessive play or distortion of the rubber mounts.

Alex

bluehawk91

I visited Honda dealer today. They want to charge $60 for an inspection. I didn't have checked. I did however buy some fluids (3 qt transmission fluid, 1 gal coolant, 2 bottles of brake fluid. I'll have to find a mechanics that offers free inspection.

I'm mainly concerned about transmission as I have been reading this forum for past couple of days and they recommend not to change fluid if it hadn't been done at 100K. They weren't clear whether 100K miles or 100K Kms. My mileage is 114K Miles which isn't too far off from 100K.

I took some pictures of dipstick. Here's the album.
https://imgur.com/a/WPSvn

@redneck_cdn: I'll check it out later. I borrowed Haynes repair manual from Library. I'll have to identify the parts you mentioned from diagrams.

ezone

Good for them!

A paid inspection is usually of more value than any free inspection.
Think about that for a while.

But it also depends entirely on the person doing the inspecting.



That's BS, old wives' tales.

Change that trans fluid ASAP.
And wipe clean the magnet on the drainplug.
Make sure you have a funnel that can reach the dipstick hole BEFORE you drain the fluid!!!




Never use chemicals in the fluid to 'clean' a trans, nor use a flushing machine as found at Jizzylube type places.
The only Honda approved flush method is simply several drain and fill sessions along with some running and driving in between.




The pics: Horrible focus! LOL
But the color of the fluid doesn't look horrible.

The compliance bushing at the front end of the front lower control arms goes bad, the rubber wears out and tears, the arm then can make contact with the subframe on bumps.

mikey1

i agree with everything, just do a drain and fill on the tranny and use HONDA OEM FLUID!.....i didn't do my first tranny fluid drain/fill till about 200k kilos, im now at 290k kilos, my tranny is original and still shifts like it is brand new

bluehawk91

Sorry for late reply, I was away for last 5 days.

I'll change transmission fluid today. I purchased it from Honda.

bluehawk91

So, I changed the spark plugs and Transmission fluid today.
Spark Plugs are ZFR6FIX-11 and transmission fluid is HONDA DW-1.

I've poured about 2.8 liters ~3 quarts. Hopefully, it's fine as I got the jugs in one liter bottles.
PICS: http://imgur.com/a/9ZzCG/
// Control Arm pics also included

I feel the difference in gear shifting. It feels more smooth.
Should I change fluid two more time with an interval in between?

One more question: I feel throttle is sometimes still engaged for couple of seconds when the car speed is above 100 Km/h. Also, there is some rattling sound when accelerating b/w 40-80 km/h. Sorry, don't have a sound clip yet, but I feel some kind of metal gasket maybe loose.

ezone

Fluid average, magnet average and I hope you wiped the magnet off....

Can't tell about your bushings from the pics. Guessing they look torn?

moist dirt accumulation under it is normal, oil runoff from every oil change and whatnot..
If you are worried about it, clean it off and keep an eye on it.



Rattle....from underneath the car? Will it do it sitting still just revving the engine?
Cat heatshields rusted apart?

bluehawk91

Sorry again for delay. School started! I did wipe off the magnet. Should I do drain and fill one more time? or two?

I'm looking to drain and fill coolant, but didn't find a proper diy yet. There is a video on youtube for total coolant flush. In what scenarios is it required? Does drain and fill suffice?

Regarding the control arm "clunk" sound, I may not be able to remove the entire part and do polyurethane fix. It is a great DIY, but I was thinking of fixing it without taking it apart, which would be a lot easier. Pouring polyurethane on the appropriate area and let it seal the previous parts? Not good? :P

No, it doesn't make any noise when only revving the engine, only when the car is in motion. It is intermittent. I feel it is some kind of metal gasket (thin metal part) that is loose. I'll reproduce the sound and post it here.

Is Fram CA8911 air filter any good? I'm looking to purchase it and some other stuff from rock auto.

Second Last question, any thoughts about why the car would keep throttle engaged for couple seconds (2-3) more when it is at high speed??

Last Question, What would be the best way to recharge the ac refrigerant for a DIYer? It's the end of the summer, but would like to do it if no expensive tools are required.

Edit: One more question. :P I'm looking to buy a reliable torque wrench. I purchased 1/4" wrench, but had to use an adapter (1/4" to 3/8"). Which torque wrench has a high range and is versatile? 3/8" feels better than 1/4".

ezone

That's entirely up to you.

How does the fluid look now that you changed it once? I thought it didn't look too bad.

Change ATF again at your next oil change?

IMO yes, for basic service. Drain the radiator, refill.
You can do it again in a year or two if you like.

Others may want to remove a block plug to drain, I never felt that necessary. If you ever replace the water pump, that drains the engine block of coolant.


No comment.


Exhaust heat shields are made of thin sheetmetal.....

Is it really?

There is only a cable between your foot and the throttle body. Does it move freely? No obstructions?

Does cruise control work correctly? Its cable freely returns to closed position?


No comment again.

You obtain whatever torque wrenches you need for the work you are doing. There is no "one size fits all" torque wrench.

I have multiple torque wrenches to cover most of the work I do: 1/4" drive, 3/8", and 1/2" drives that cover almost everything from 5 inch-pounds to 250 foot-pounds. Any torque wrench is most accurate in the middle of its range. They are not very accurate at the outer ends of the range.

HTH

bluehawk91

I'll change ATF at next oil change which would be in 4 months approximately.
Okay, thanks for the coolant response. I'd just drain and fill the coolant.

Regarding the control arm bushings, I found busings on rock auto. I think swapping the part would be easier and it costs only $6.42/each. DORMAN Part # 905752.

Yeah! Cruise control works correctly and is very responsive (in terms of engaging and disengaging).

Thanks for info on torque wrenches.

Appreciate your help!

ezone

The bushings would have to be pressed into the control arms.

At work I (Edit: "try to") replace the control arms, complete, with factory parts.

OneJzSupra

Price and part number please.

ezone

Nah.



OP is in Canada.
DIY lookup for Canadians: http://torontohondaparts.com/

bluehawk91

I drained the coolant. The old fluid was quite green. No color deterioration. I poured type 2 honda coolant. It is different color (blue). I could only pour about 65% from the jug (3.78 L). I warmed up the engine until the radiator fan came on twice, but I still couldn't pour much. What do, now??

https://i.imgur.com/Suvp39S.jpg
//Fluid pan is dirty from ATF fluid change last time.

I recorded that rattling type noise. My dad told me our regular mechanic informed him it is the spring on exhaust pipe that need replaced.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/9dr2sb79mm...%2013.mp3?dl=0

Stock 99

Green means it wasn't Honda coolant.

Did you have the heater controls set to full heat inside the car? Did you have the car tilted nose up while burping the system? Pretty normal for it to have to go through a couple driving cycles before you get all the air out. When I do mine I usually go for a short drive and let it cool for a few hours. The next time I drive it I top off the coolant in the reservior after bring it up to operating temperature.

bluehawk91

Will it cause any problems?? I'm not sure how much coolant the cooling system takes.

Yeah, I set heater control on full heat without fan running. Let it run for few mins. Didn't have the car titled up at all. It was on a flat surface. I have yet to pour the remaining. It's still 40% left in the jug.

Stock 99

Do you state anywhere in this thread what model of car your driving? I just read through it and didn't see it anywhere.

The 1.7 l engine coolant capacity is 4 liters A/T, 3.9 MT.

There's a bolt to drain the block on the back of the engine close to the oil filter...if you didn't pull that then about 1 liter of old coolant did not drain out. So from a 4 liter jug there would be about 30% left. When I drain mine I don't pull the bolt but do let it drain for about 1/2 an hour before I add new. By the time I'm done there's about a 1/2 liter left in the jug.

As far as green coolant goes....Honda's very specifically want Honda coolant because of the all aluminum design of the engine...other coolants can cause corrosion. You can't change what has been done at this point but if it really bothers you you might want to change it again to try and get most of that green coolant out of the system.

pjb3

The engine is not all aluminum, it is a cast iron block with an aluminum head. All brand name antifreeze is designed to prevent corrosion and electrolysis in cast iron and aluminum engines.

I do recommend sticking with factory coolant when possible. Antifreeze in no longer the simple mixture it used to be and factory coolant is the easiest way to be sure there wil not be any problems.

ezone

(According to someone with better memory than me) Although blue type 2 has been available since around 01, the model year 2004 is when Honda began using type2 coolant as factory fill. Prior coolants were some versions of green.

Hondas coolant is regular Ethylene Glycol, Non-Silicate, and Non-Borate. Honda considers Silicates and Borates to be abrasive to the seals and such.


As far as hoses lasting longer, rubber technology has progressed immensely over the last several decades. We don't replace belts and hoses every 4 years now, and haven't needed to do so for over 2 or 3 decades.
EPDM rubber is the new standard and has the ability to last a damn long time under normal circumstances.

mikey1

when i drained my entire system.....drained rad, replaced water pump, replaced thermostat, i believe i used just over 4 liters to refill it....one entire big jug plus a little bit of a second jug

by doing all the things i did i think i pretty much had every drop of it out, when you pull the water pump off quite a bit comes out there, even after you have already drained the rad

bluehawk91

The vehicle is 2002 Honda Civic LX.
I tried to add the coolant the second time, but couldn't add much. about ~30% is still left. If I drain from the bolt, just the coolant from the reservoir around the bolt will of come out, right? Just want to make sure.

Also, can anyone please suggest me a good method to bleed the brakes? I have looked at several videos that demonstrates different tools. I'd like to know what method would be recommended for DIYer. I may need to purchase a tool also, so am also looking to know what tool would be good? Power bleeder?

Separate question,

I have a 2004 corolla. I was driving on highway and had to brake suddenly. Truck driver decided to put the blinky on and changed the lane right away thereby making me slam my brakes. So the question is after hard braking, I'd not get ANY forward momentum at all. I'd push the gas pedal, but engine would just rev. Car was in d mode. I had to put emergency blinkers on, pull on the side, and bring it to stop. I put the car in Park mode and then D afterward everything seemed normal. I'm wondering why/how does this happen? Have I damaged transmission/engine? I don't have brake assist, or anything. This vehicle has old style throttle, not electronic throttle btw. Edit. I don't have ABS brake either.

ezone

That would empty the block and head and a portion of the radiator.

You have run the engine, any old liquid is now thoroughly mixed with the new.

I sure wouldn't worry about it. At work we only drain from the radiator plug for an average coolant service.

If the water pump gets replaced with a timing belt job, that drains the block just as well as pulling the drain bolt would, and draining the radiator along with the job makes for a nearly complete coolant exchange.




No special tools needed if you use the 2 person method for bleeding brakes, that's the simplest. (Google it if necessary.)

You just need one person that knows how to do it, and one that can follow instructions exactly while pumping the brake pedal. Plus brake fluid and a couple wrenches to fit the bleeder screws.



Engine just revved up as though the trans had shifted to neutral or park? Check trans fluid level first.

Revved up but with struggle? May be a brake issue, stuck and holding the car still?

Can you duplicate the problem now?

Other than that, if it runs, drives, and shifts normally at this point in time, I don't have much to offer. Hard to fix it if it isn't broken.

bluehawk91

Thanks! I'd just use two persons method. No tools necessary.
As far as I know, water pump has not been replaced. I just want to empty the jug, so I can put the old liquid in this jug and bring it to recycle station. :P

Yes, engine just reved as in Neutral or Park. No, car was not stuck. It was rolling, so I'm thinking brake pad/calipers would not have been stuck.
Engine just revved, no struggle.

I checked the transmission fluid level. It's not low or seem to be leaking.
This car has also 100K miles on it, so I'd be changing transmission fluid given transmission doesn't die on me after this incident.

I cannot duplicate the problem again. I drove about 10 kms back to home yesterday. No issues. I test drove today 10 kms on a highway. It shifted normal. I'm very curious what/how this could happen.

ezone

I'd stick it in the trunk or under the workbench, save for later. (I'm used to carrying some spare fluids and parts in all my old cars LOL)
Many of the cars need the reservoir topped off periodically, I find myself refilling reservoirs on about half of the cars I see at work for oil changes and whatnot.



Put the old fluid in a gallon milk carton or washer fluid jug or something. The recycle place won't care if it has a trace of curdled milk residue in it.


Maybe something bumped the shifter into "ALMOST neutral"? Just guessing.




You might inquire with someone who specializes in Toyotas?