Berto

So i'v been going at this electrical issue in my wife's car for a while has me going bananas.

Her fairly low mileage car has 'pulsing' headlights soon after we got it. Every once in a while would need a jump start. I decided to quit playing around because of her unsafe job, she needs a reliable car. New battery and new alternator were in order. I didn't want a reman one so I bought a 'new' delco remy from advance with a lifetime warranty.

Pulsing continues. Stalling still happens (its always been very seldom, very sporatic). I noticed driving at night that the battery flashes on for a split second and goes away. I mean you need to be staring at the spot where the light is, and not blink or you miss it. Again pointing towards an alternator problem.

Advance got me another new alternator. put it on....same issues. We ran their charging system test and tried to figure out what was going on the only thing we saw that was 'low' was at idle the amperage didn't exceed 6 amps. At 2000 rpm loaded wouldn't go over 10amps.


I buy a lot from these guys so they were real cool with me on Sunday Afternoon and we swapped out the battery...retested. etc. I got another alternator, put it on (i'm a pro at these now btw). No higher than 2 amps at idle.

I already tried plugging/unplugging the ELD in the fuse box, no difference. I've already gone through all the grounds and power connections....clean as can be. I've even added more grounds and a power wire straight to the battery from the alternator.

The questions:
- suggestions from anyone?
- What is your car's alternator's output at idle. its a 70 amp alternator but realize that doesn't actually happen until you are at high RPM and there is enough load demanded to use it. I would think at idle with the headlights on, A/C, rear defroster, etc that we'd be pulling more than 2 amps.

Poopies

iTrader: (4)

Have you tried upgrading your grounding cables to a larger gauge? That could help.

ezone

Voltage drop testing may reveal.

Berto

All the grounding cables have been checked, one replaced just because.

I changed the alternator for a different store's brand. Again low amperage. At idle with the A/C, lights, and defroster on the voltage is down at 11.8 volts. Even at 2k RPM loaded its only at 12.15 volts.

I don't see any big concerns when measuring the voltage drop from the alt+ terminal to the B+ terminal (maybe 0.25 volts?). Alternator seems to be grounded good as the voltage drop between the housing and the B- post is 0.04 Volts.

If the car has no accessories on, just engine running its at 13.5 volts.

I also tested the ELD and it seems to be working well (adjust voltage with changing loads).

I'm at my wits end. Car left the wife stranded again today.

ezone

Test alt and reg control circuit

I'll try to shorten the steps in the book here----but you need to refer to a real service manual to make sure I didn't screw up the steps here (everyone knows I can't read LOL).


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Unplug the 4 wire plug from the alt.
Start engine, turn on high beam headlights.

Measure voltage between terminal #2 (wht/grn wire) and battery positive terminal

Voltage over 1v?
Voltage below 1v?


If below 1v then disconnect B connector from the PCM, and check terminal B18 wire for continuity to terminal 2 at the alt plug.
Continuity-- no? Fix open circuit in the wire.
Continuity-- yes? Repl alternator.



If OVER 1v then disconnect B connector from the PCM, and check terminal B18 wire for continuity (short) to ground.
If shorted to ground, fix that wire.
If no short to ground, try another PCM.




Again, refer to your own service manual!!!

HTH