CLUSTER HELP?!?! Video of Self-Test inside
#1
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Okay folks, need some Cluster help. It's been like this since I've owned the car.
Issues are that the Needles are just slightly off where they're SUPPOSED to be. When my speedometer shows I'm traveling 60mph, I'm actually going around 54mph. As for as the Cluster test, this will show you how the needles are off on the HEAT & FUEL gauge. Watch the FUEL, where you see it stop is what it shows when I have a full tank of gas.
Would simply buying a new Cluster fix this problem with mine???
Issues are that the Needles are just slightly off where they're SUPPOSED to be. When my speedometer shows I'm traveling 60mph, I'm actually going around 54mph. As for as the Cluster test, this will show you how the needles are off on the HEAT & FUEL gauge. Watch the FUEL, where you see it stop is what it shows when I have a full tank of gas.
Would simply buying a new Cluster fix this problem with mine???
#2
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: CLUSTER HELP?!?! Video of Self-Test inside
Looks like it fails the sweep test.
STEP 1: Battery reset. Disconnect both battery cables and touch them together for at least 5 minutes.
Then reconnect, start with positive cable first.
Start the engine, and check if gauges are right again. If good, do the idle relearn, unlock the radio, reset the drivers window if needed. Drive it..
If not good, do the sweep test again....if still no good, then probably toss a cluster at it..
STEP 1: Battery reset. Disconnect both battery cables and touch them together for at least 5 minutes.
Then reconnect, start with positive cable first.
Start the engine, and check if gauges are right again. If good, do the idle relearn, unlock the radio, reset the drivers window if needed. Drive it..
If not good, do the sweep test again....if still no good, then probably toss a cluster at it..
#3
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Looks like it fails the sweep test.
STEP 1: Battery reset. Disconnect both battery cables and touch them together for at least 5 minutes.
Then reconnect, start with positive cable first.
Start the engine, and check if gauges are right again. If good, do the idle relearn, unlock the radio, reset the drivers window if needed. Drive it..
If not good, do the sweep test again....if still no good, then probably toss a cluster at it..
STEP 1: Battery reset. Disconnect both battery cables and touch them together for at least 5 minutes.
Then reconnect, start with positive cable first.
Start the engine, and check if gauges are right again. If good, do the idle relearn, unlock the radio, reset the drivers window if needed. Drive it..
If not good, do the sweep test again....if still no good, then probably toss a cluster at it..
#4
Kenny the Ricer
iTrader: (1)
Re: CLUSTER HELP?!?! Video of Self-Test inside
Looks like it fails the sweep test.
STEP 1: Battery reset. Disconnect both battery cables and touch them together for at least 5 minutes.
Then reconnect, start with positive cable first.
Start the engine, and check if gauges are right again. If good, do the idle relearn, unlock the radio, reset the drivers window if needed. Drive it..
If not good, do the sweep test again....if still no good, then probably toss a cluster at it..
STEP 1: Battery reset. Disconnect both battery cables and touch them together for at least 5 minutes.
Then reconnect, start with positive cable first.
Start the engine, and check if gauges are right again. If good, do the idle relearn, unlock the radio, reset the drivers window if needed. Drive it..
If not good, do the sweep test again....if still no good, then probably toss a cluster at it..
For? and procedure?
Never heard of it prior to now.
#5
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: CLUSTER HELP?!?! Video of Self-Test inside
Losta stuff gets reset when you disconnect the battery. Idle program dumps. Radio locks if it's an anti-theft unit and presets may or may not be lost. Clock starts over at 1:00. The usual. Newer cars with more electronics have more stuff to reset. Windows, if need be. Sunroof, if need be. Some might need to learn HVAC. And more, depending on year/make/model.
Welcome to the future!
On the one-touch windows with auto down AND auto up, sometimes they lose memory when you disconnect the battery (or master switch, or motor). You have to relearn upper and lower position limits so it works right again.
Run the glass all the way down in the auto position and keep holding the switch down for 2 more seconds after the glass stops. Do the same for up, pull the switch all the way up and keep holding for 2 more seconds after it quits.
Then make sure it works.
Newer (much newer) cars sometimes have to have the window memory manually 'purged' before it can learn anew.
Idle learn procedure: Linky: https://www.civicforums.com/forums/1...ml#post4420434
Welcome to the future!
On the one-touch windows with auto down AND auto up, sometimes they lose memory when you disconnect the battery (or master switch, or motor). You have to relearn upper and lower position limits so it works right again.
Run the glass all the way down in the auto position and keep holding the switch down for 2 more seconds after the glass stops. Do the same for up, pull the switch all the way up and keep holding for 2 more seconds after it quits.
Then make sure it works.
Newer (much newer) cars sometimes have to have the window memory manually 'purged' before it can learn anew.
Idle learn procedure: Linky: https://www.civicforums.com/forums/1...ml#post4420434
#6
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Losta stuff gets reset when you disconnect the battery. Idle program dumps. Radio locks if it's an anti-theft unit and presets may or may not be lost. Clock starts over at 1:00. The usual. Newer cars with more electronics have more stuff to reset. Windows, if need be. Sunroof, if need be. Some might need to learn HVAC. And more, depending on year/make/model.
Welcome to the future!
On the one-touch windows with auto down AND auto up, sometimes they lose memory when you disconnect the battery (or master switch, or motor). You have to relearn upper and lower position limits so it works right again.
Run the glass all the way down in the auto position and keep holding the switch down for 2 more seconds after the glass stops. Do the same for up, pull the switch all the way up and keep holding for 2 more seconds after it quits.
Then make sure it works.
Newer (much newer) cars sometimes have to have the window memory manually 'purged' before it can learn anew.
Idle learn procedure: Linky: https://www.civicforums.com/forums/1...ml#post4420434
Welcome to the future!
On the one-touch windows with auto down AND auto up, sometimes they lose memory when you disconnect the battery (or master switch, or motor). You have to relearn upper and lower position limits so it works right again.
Run the glass all the way down in the auto position and keep holding the switch down for 2 more seconds after the glass stops. Do the same for up, pull the switch all the way up and keep holding for 2 more seconds after it quits.
Then make sure it works.
Newer (much newer) cars sometimes have to have the window memory manually 'purged' before it can learn anew.
Idle learn procedure: Linky: https://www.civicforums.com/forums/1...ml#post4420434
#7
Kenny the Ricer
iTrader: (1)
Re: CLUSTER HELP?!?! Video of Self-Test inside
Losta stuff gets reset when you disconnect the battery. Idle program dumps. Radio locks if it's an anti-theft unit and presets may or may not be lost. Clock starts over at 1:00. The usual. Newer cars with more electronics have more stuff to reset. Windows, if need be. Sunroof, if need be. Some might need to learn HVAC. And more, depending on year/make/model.
Welcome to the future!
On the one-touch windows with auto down AND auto up, sometimes they lose memory when you disconnect the battery (or master switch, or motor). You have to relearn upper and lower position limits so it works right again.
Run the glass all the way down in the auto position and keep holding the switch down for 2 more seconds after the glass stops. Do the same for up, pull the switch all the way up and keep holding for 2 more seconds after it quits.
Then make sure it works.
Newer (much newer) cars sometimes have to have the window memory manually 'purged' before it can learn anew.
Welcome to the future!
On the one-touch windows with auto down AND auto up, sometimes they lose memory when you disconnect the battery (or master switch, or motor). You have to relearn upper and lower position limits so it works right again.
Run the glass all the way down in the auto position and keep holding the switch down for 2 more seconds after the glass stops. Do the same for up, pull the switch all the way up and keep holding for 2 more seconds after it quits.
Then make sure it works.
Newer (much newer) cars sometimes have to have the window memory manually 'purged' before it can learn anew.
Luckily (or unluckily) for the 7G, there's only one auto....
And it's window down...only for the driver window lol
#8
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: CLUSTER HELP?!?! Video of Self-Test inside
You know how many different cars I see, right? I can't remember what each version has unless I can see it in front of me.
And....I kinda copied the window thing from the service info without thinking.
And....I kinda copied the window thing from the service info without thinking.
#10
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Hey ezone, what kind of idle relearn is this one?
unplug FI-ECU fuse for 20 seconds, put it back, start engine, hold engine at 3000 RPM for 3 minutes, then idle for 3 minutes.
Found that one on this board too, just wanted to know which was more effective because the link you gave me, it says DO NOT press the gas and all that.
unplug FI-ECU fuse for 20 seconds, put it back, start engine, hold engine at 3000 RPM for 3 minutes, then idle for 3 minutes.
Found that one on this board too, just wanted to know which was more effective because the link you gave me, it says DO NOT press the gas and all that.
#11
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: CLUSTER HELP?!?! Video of Self-Test inside
Removing the fuse erases memory. You could disconnect the battery cable if you wish.
Holding it at 3000 is just to get it to operating temperature. It really doesn't matter how you get it to operating temperature though. On brand new cars I'd drive it on othe usual test drive THEN let it idle while I did paperwork.
The idling time period with no electrical loads is the important part. I've never heard 3 minutes though. I've always just let the cars idle while I go do something else, like eat lunch. Come back in maybe 10 minutes, it's done.
Occasionally if there is a time crunch ill plug my scanner in so I can have visual verification that the learn has completed, the second it is finished.
Holding it at 3000 is just to get it to operating temperature. It really doesn't matter how you get it to operating temperature though. On brand new cars I'd drive it on othe usual test drive THEN let it idle while I did paperwork.
The idling time period with no electrical loads is the important part. I've never heard 3 minutes though. I've always just let the cars idle while I go do something else, like eat lunch. Come back in maybe 10 minutes, it's done.
Occasionally if there is a time crunch ill plug my scanner in so I can have visual verification that the learn has completed, the second it is finished.
#12
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Removing the fuse erases memory. You could disconnect the battery cable if you wish.
Holding it at 3000 is just to get it to operating temperature. It really doesn't matter how you get it to operating temperature though. On brand new cars I'd drive it on othe usual test drive THEN let it idle while I did paperwork.
The idling time period with no electrical loads is the important part. I've never heard 3 minutes though. I've always just let the cars idle while I go do something else, like eat lunch. Come back in maybe 10 minutes, it's done.
Occasionally if there is a time crunch ill plug my scanner in so I can have visual verification that the learn has completed, the second it is finished.
Holding it at 3000 is just to get it to operating temperature. It really doesn't matter how you get it to operating temperature though. On brand new cars I'd drive it on othe usual test drive THEN let it idle while I did paperwork.
The idling time period with no electrical loads is the important part. I've never heard 3 minutes though. I've always just let the cars idle while I go do something else, like eat lunch. Come back in maybe 10 minutes, it's done.
Occasionally if there is a time crunch ill plug my scanner in so I can have visual verification that the learn has completed, the second it is finished.
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