BlueEM2

iTrader: (1)

Hey ezone. My temperature protection unit on my AC compressor has failed. Unfortunately there is NO way to get it out of it's home. If I were to simply bypass the actual sensor by cutting the wires and attaching them together will my AC still work? I understand the risks of not having the protection unit and frankly I don't care.

BlueEM2

iTrader: (1)

Answered my own question. This does not work. Need to jump it to bypass the sensor and still send the proper signals. Looks like I'll be tearing into it again sometime soon. Can't believe how inaccessible this area is.

ezone

Yes you can jumper it.

"For testing purposes only."

ezone

Just saw the 2nd post. You have to jumper the harness wires together, not the sensor wires.

ezone

According to my diagrams, Jumper red to blue/white on the harness. (Or use a vampire clip on the thermal protestor wires and leave them connected to the main harness, same effect.)

Blue/red is for the clutch, don't mess with that one.

BlueEM2

iTrader: (1)

Ok thanks ezone. I'll use a vampire clip on it tomorrow. I ripped the wires out of the sensor already and joined them together just to see if that would work since I had the alternator out but it didn't work. Hopefully those two wires aren't for the clutch. I have a new assembly anyway if I need to use it. Can I jump them up higher above the connector since it's a pain to get down that low.

BlueEM2

iTrader: (1)

Everything is so corroded and bad in there that I can't even get the connector apart.

ezone

You can chop into the harness where convenient if you want, but since you have corrosion issues you will need to be able to seal it up well so it doesn't rot where you cut into the wire insulation.

ezone

For those of you reading this at home, Google Image Search for "vampire clip" reveals one of these:

GolNat

iTrader: (7)

^ AKA Scotch Lock

Never heard vampire clip before!

ezone

Named "Vampire" because they SUCK.

Great for intermittent faults, especially when used on stereos, alarms, remote starts, and everything electrical in the interior of every conversion van and RV.

xRiCeBoYx

iTrader: (22)

Lol, only thing I use those for the ricer LEDs I have in my center console/center a/c vents

jedema

I hate those things with a passion in the industrial world, my predicesor was hell bent on either using those things, or those stupid 3m "phone terminals". I spent months putting proper splices in my equipment. Its no suprise that the automotive repair world hates them as well.

BlueEM2, I have the same problem. I jumped across wires 1&3 on the harness side of the connector after verifying that those wires go to the thermal protector with my meter. (I used my SCR paperclip) As soon as I did that the fans kicked on and it ran for a second and I disconnected it. I should have my new thermal protector tomorrow from Majestic and I'm so looking forward to removing the PS pump and alternator...

If your just going to take it out of the system like ezone said, just clip wires 1&3 on the harness side of the connector and use some dielectric grease or something to protect the joint from moisture. No more thermal protector (I was tempted to do it myself). $50 for a stupid sensor, but I needed some other stuff from Majestic anyway.

CraigW

iTrader: (1)

I bought a pack of those a while back thinking after 15+ years of avoiding them that maybe something had changed.....WRONG!

Threw the whole pack in the trash.

Worthless.

BlueEM2

iTrader: (1)

I bought a new sensor, that's not a problem. The problem is that I can't get the damn thing out of the compressor. I've tried everything except drilling into it (hmmm... should have thought of that DAMN). I'll try that today, I had the alternator and P/S pump out.

ezone

^^It may be siliconed in place.

BlueEM2

iTrader: (1)

It probably is. Either way looks like a tight fit. Going to try the vampire clip now.

BlueEM2

iTrader: (1)

Alright. If I'm using the vampire clip, which wire do I have to cut? Appareantly the clip I got one wire has to be cut to work.

ezone

Either/both/none.

I'd just open up the scotch lock and mash it on so it will straddle both wires without cutting either one.

The goal is just to get the blade to go through both wires and bridge them together electrically....

BlueEM2

iTrader: (1)

Not the problem. DId it, still no AC. I'm into either an AC switch or clutch coil.

CraigW

iTrader: (1)

....or the crappy block did not take.

Any way to check continuity ??

BlueEM2

iTrader: (1)

I need to check resistance. I'm not good at electrical I mean at all. I can rip a head gasket out no problem but I can't do any electrical at all It might be time to start educating myself.

BlueEM2

iTrader: (1)

Oh the dual fans come on so I think the thermal protector is working.

jedema

Mine just pulled out to change it. Now here I sit waiting for e dang UPS.... They are never this late getting here. I hope they hurry up. I don't wanna put my car back together n the dark

jedema

Can you hear the clutch kicking on then? Ummm. In the thread about my car there is a link to a schematic which was ezone approved. You might have a stuck relay in that fuse box in the engine compartment. I believe the relay is the bottom left relay. Swap them around with the one above it and see if that helps?

johndeerebones

Second from the left on the top. I just ordered a clutch coil today from majestic. It has been intermittent for over a year and now its quit altogether. Can't deal with a/c more and more the older I get.

BlueEM2

iTrader: (1)

Replaced the relay already that's not the problem. Also the clutch does not come on but somehow I don't feel that's the problem just yet.

BlueEM2

iTrader: (1)

Ok.. So. I bypassed the stupid safety.. Now, my AC turned on today for a minute and then when I shut the car down and started it back up it wouldn't run again. It ran for about .. 20 minutes without problems and condensation started coming out of the bottom. Is this for sure a clutch/coil problem or should I be looking elsewhere. The "AC" light illuminates inside the car whether it is working or not.

ezone

The only way to know for certain is to test while it's broken.

Is the clutch still receiving power when it quits?

Does the coil still have correct resistance?

Is the clutch gap too wide?



I'm replacing a clutch and coil set right now in an Odyssey because the coil went open circuit. I snapped a couple pics but I still can't insert them into the post and don't have time to dink with it right now. Any news on what happened and why I still can't post like a normal person yet?

BlueEM2

iTrader: (1)

Not sure ezone. I passed it on to an administrator because it's beyond my privileges. Hopefully he gets back to you soon but were kinda limited on admins right now and the main guy from the forum is away currently due to accident. Hopefully he resolves it soon but I think it's going to have to wait until the main guy gets back.