stripped timing belt tensioner hole
03-24-2014
#31
*watches temp gauge like a hawkboss* :D
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Re: stripped timing belt tensioner hole
+10,000,000 on TIME-SERTs. The only thread repair that exceeds the torque of the original hole (esp in aluminium), is a full sleeve so it can never pull out, and is super-super easy to install. Used them exclusively on powersports Hondas and other Big Four and domestic bikes, ATVs, and watercraft. Spend the extra cash, and do it once -- you don't want to put a Silly-Coil on a fastener hole as important and as vibration-prone as for a timing belt tensioner. 
Last edited by kinakoes2; 03-25-2014 at 06:06 PM.
11-22-2014
#32
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Re: stripped timing belt tensioner hole
I just completed the Timesert install on my 2005 Civic EX. Thanks for the advice from all posters! I made a guide block out of delrin, that was about an inch deep, that I held up to the mounting surface of the block when starting to drill the hole out to 13/32" size. This guided the drill straight into the hole, so I didn't end up with a crooked hole. I also drilled this block with a guide hole for the tap for the very same reason. It was challenging to hold it and turn the drill by hand with the tap handle, but it didn't take all that long to get to a depth where the guide block wasn't needed any longer. At that point, it was just time consuming to hand drill the hole to the proper depth. I was worried about drilling the hole to the depth called out by the Timesert directions (insert depth + 1/4" extra), but it turned out perfect. I installed the insert with the supplied tool, and torqued the tensioner bolt up to the 33lb/ft spec called out in the manual. I now have one used Timesert kit, that is missing one insert, that I plan to sell on Ebay.
01-20-2015
#33
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I am having this issue right now... My tensioner failed causing the belt to skip and bend every intake valve.. Got the head back put it on along with everything else just to find out that the previous owner had stripped out the threads in the hole 
the threads still grab a little bit, so i just put jb weld on the threads to see if this works. with the time-sert kit, do i need to pull the motor in order to put it in? there isnt a ton of room between the frame and the block
the threads still grab a little bit, so i just put jb weld on the threads to see if this works. with the time-sert kit, do i need to pull the motor in order to put it in? there isnt a ton of room between the frame and the block
08-01-2015
#34
Re: stripped timing belt tensioner hole
In the middle of tackling this problem myself. Looks like the previous mechanic used a heli-coil which has now failed. The hole is a mess and will not take a new heli-coil insert. Going to have to use a to make a bigger whole than the previous one.
Wish me luck. Will post back here to let you know how it works out.
Wish me luck. Will post back here to let you know how it works out.
08-01-2015
#35
Re: stripped timing belt tensioner hole
In the middle of tackling this problem myself. Looks like the previous mechanic used a heli-coil which has now failed. The hole is a mess and will not take a new heli-coil insert. Going to have to use a big insert kit from time-sert to make a bigger whole than the previous one.
Wish me luck. Will post back here to let you know how it works out.
Wish me luck. Will post back here to let you know how it works out.
oh man....good luck, i would just replace the block,
that bolt scares the crap out of me everytime, i normally under torque it to about 25 in fear of stripping it
how did you find this out?
what repair are in the middle of?
08-01-2015
#36
Re: stripped timing belt tensioner hole
Same here. Use longer bolt. There is enough space. One of the bolts from the bracket above fits perfect
Last edited by emich; 08-01-2015 at 12:02 PM.
08-26-2015
#37
Re: stripped timing belt tensioner hole
FYI,
I purchased a big-sert kit 5012c and a shorter (14mm I think) insert from time-sert to repair my failed heli-coil install from previous mechanic.
I can't even begin to say how impressed I was with time-sert. Part got here in less than a day. Quality of the kit was outstanding. Not cheap, but you get what you pay for in this case. It was an absolute pleasure to use. Only down side is I did have to "re-machine" the studs of the time-sert drill bit, tap, and countersink to fit into my hand tapping chuck. Other than that, the install went perfectly.
If anyone else gets into this situation, I have a once used big-sert 5012c which is the perfect tool for the job which I don't think I will be needing ever again. I'll sell it to you for much cheaper than you will find it anywhere else. Hit me up with a PM.
Cheers!
I purchased a big-sert kit 5012c and a shorter (14mm I think) insert from time-sert to repair my failed heli-coil install from previous mechanic.
I can't even begin to say how impressed I was with time-sert. Part got here in less than a day. Quality of the kit was outstanding. Not cheap, but you get what you pay for in this case. It was an absolute pleasure to use. Only down side is I did have to "re-machine" the studs of the time-sert drill bit, tap, and countersink to fit into my hand tapping chuck. Other than that, the install went perfectly.
If anyone else gets into this situation, I have a once used big-sert 5012c which is the perfect tool for the job which I don't think I will be needing ever again. I'll sell it to you for much cheaper than you will find it anywhere else. Hit me up with a PM.
Cheers!
10-09-2015
#38
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Can I use this big-sert kit 5012c if it stripped the first time without the heli-coil repair or do I need to use the time-sert kit 1012 mentioned in post #24?
I'd be interested in buying your used big-sert 5012c if I can use it.
Sent you PM.
I'd be interested in buying your used big-sert 5012c if I can use it.
Sent you PM.
12-04-2015
#39
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In the middle of tackling this problem myself. Looks like the previous mechanic used a heli-coil which has now failed. The hole is a mess and will not take a new heli-coil insert. Going to have to use a big insert kit from time-sert to make a bigger whole than the previous one.
Wish me luck. Will post back here to let you know how it works out.
Wish me luck. Will post back here to let you know how it works out.
12-04-2015
#40
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: stripped timing belt tensioner hole
, the engine had never been apart, and the bolt stripped way before I ever reached 33 lb/ft of torque. I'm thinking that this problem is a defect in the machining of the block, or how the bolt was installed at the factory.
12-04-2015
#41
Re: stripped timing belt tensioner hole
08-19-2018
#42
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Despair no more. I have the answer that you seek...:grin:
The car- 2004 Honda Civic LX 4 door
I had my timing belt/water pump done at a Honda dealership 22 months ago. I have nothing good to say about the mechanic that worked on my car. He overtightened the tensioner bolt, stripping it out.
About 3 weeks ago, the car went limp in the Publix parking lot, oil was spewing out all over the bottom of the engine.
I opened her up to find that the tensioner spring was all crushed up, loose near the crankshaft. The spring actually ate through the mounting hole on the tensioner itself-- Shocking how strong the OEM spring was. I'm guessing from the vibration caused by loose timing tensioner bolt that was stripped by the idiot Honda dealer mechanic. :hothead:
The timing belt was shredded & the engine was covered in oil (driver's side).
The crankshaft seal on the oil pump was cut (presumably by the loose spring). It came out in two circular pieces.
I put on a new cheap auto zone timing belt to check the compression. I feared that the valves were bent or worse. The compression came in 175-178psi. The engine was salvageable.
The big problem:
I was agonizing about how to go about repairing the stripped timing tensioner hole. I searched and searched for a easy solution. However, I found that there were 2 ways to go about it. 1) to lift or lower the engine to gain access to the hole by a drill, 2) drill a 3 to 4 inch through the left inner fender to gain access.
Lifting the engine meant I had to disconnect a lot of things. I was more worried about wires and hoses that may get ripped apart while attempting to do so. Lowering it seemed to be feasible, but the AC compressor had to be taken out. The lines had to be disconnected to gain access to mounting holes.
Drilling a hole through the inner fender was out of the question. It is a support area (rectangular box shape). I didn't want to compromise the structure.
I was looking at a Youtube video and a guy was drilling out the same hole on an engine that was out of the car--BY HAND. Because his small drill didn't accept the Time-sert drill bit. You may say, yeah, but the engine was out, and he had plenty of space. And he had plenty of leverage because he can put his weight behind the drill bit and tap wrench.
BUT, THIS CAN BE DONE WITH THE ENGINE STILL IN THE CAR!!!
You do not need to lower or lift the engine even an inch to gain access.
This is how I did it:
Tool you need:
1) Time-sert metric kit M10x1.25 part#1012 ($80 at Amazon)
2) small craftsman tap wrench (~$10?)
Remove everything to do a timing belt change, including the water pump (gets in the way of tap wrench)
Follow directions for Time-sert repair kit, but do everything by hand. Go slowly and carefully. It took me 5 min to drill out by hand. probably 20 min tops to complete the repair.
We don't need space for a drill. Repeat, we don't need the space for a drill! You have at least 2" of space left with the drill bit and tap wrench.
I think the idea that we need to gain access with a drill is making this more complicated. Get that out of your head. The block is aluminum and the hole is already there (you're not drilling a fresh hole) you're just making the hole slightly larger.
I was very surprised at how easily the drill bit cut a new hole into the block.
I reassembled everything using all new OEM HONDA parts. Runs like butter now.
I hope this post will help many in despair and agonizing about how to repair the stripped timing belt tensioner hole.
The car- 2004 Honda Civic LX 4 door
I had my timing belt/water pump done at a Honda dealership 22 months ago. I have nothing good to say about the mechanic that worked on my car. He overtightened the tensioner bolt, stripping it out.
About 3 weeks ago, the car went limp in the Publix parking lot, oil was spewing out all over the bottom of the engine.
I opened her up to find that the tensioner spring was all crushed up, loose near the crankshaft. The spring actually ate through the mounting hole on the tensioner itself-- Shocking how strong the OEM spring was. I'm guessing from the vibration caused by loose timing tensioner bolt that was stripped by the idiot Honda dealer mechanic. :hothead:
The timing belt was shredded & the engine was covered in oil (driver's side).
The crankshaft seal on the oil pump was cut (presumably by the loose spring). It came out in two circular pieces.
I put on a new cheap auto zone timing belt to check the compression. I feared that the valves were bent or worse. The compression came in 175-178psi. The engine was salvageable.
The big problem:
I was agonizing about how to go about repairing the stripped timing tensioner hole. I searched and searched for a easy solution. However, I found that there were 2 ways to go about it. 1) to lift or lower the engine to gain access to the hole by a drill, 2) drill a 3 to 4 inch through the left inner fender to gain access.
Lifting the engine meant I had to disconnect a lot of things. I was more worried about wires and hoses that may get ripped apart while attempting to do so. Lowering it seemed to be feasible, but the AC compressor had to be taken out. The lines had to be disconnected to gain access to mounting holes.
Drilling a hole through the inner fender was out of the question. It is a support area (rectangular box shape). I didn't want to compromise the structure.
I was looking at a Youtube video and a guy was drilling out the same hole on an engine that was out of the car--BY HAND. Because his small drill didn't accept the Time-sert drill bit. You may say, yeah, but the engine was out, and he had plenty of space. And he had plenty of leverage because he can put his weight behind the drill bit and tap wrench.
BUT, THIS CAN BE DONE WITH THE ENGINE STILL IN THE CAR!!!
You do not need to lower or lift the engine even an inch to gain access.
This is how I did it:
Tool you need:
1) Time-sert metric kit M10x1.25 part#1012 ($80 at Amazon)
2) small craftsman tap wrench (~$10?)
Remove everything to do a timing belt change, including the water pump (gets in the way of tap wrench)
Follow directions for Time-sert repair kit, but do everything by hand. Go slowly and carefully. It took me 5 min to drill out by hand. probably 20 min tops to complete the repair.
We don't need space for a drill. Repeat, we don't need the space for a drill! You have at least 2" of space left with the drill bit and tap wrench.
I think the idea that we need to gain access with a drill is making this more complicated. Get that out of your head. The block is aluminum and the hole is already there (you're not drilling a fresh hole) you're just making the hole slightly larger.
I was very surprised at how easily the drill bit cut a new hole into the block.
I reassembled everything using all new OEM HONDA parts. Runs like butter now.
I hope this post will help many in despair and agonizing about how to repair the stripped timing belt tensioner hole.
08-03-2019
#43
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Did you install the new updated tensioner bolt?
2001 – 2003 model years may require a longer fastening bolt!
Please be advised that early model year Civics may require an
updated tensioner bolt. Honda upgraded the timing belt tensioner
assembly in late 2002.
https://www.techconnectcanada.com/do...20Bulletin.pdf
Thread repair, timing belt tensioner Honda Civic - YouTube
2001 – 2003 model years may require a longer fastening bolt!
Please be advised that early model year Civics may require an
updated tensioner bolt. Honda upgraded the timing belt tensioner
assembly in late 2002.
https://www.techconnectcanada.com/do...20Bulletin.pdf
Thread repair, timing belt tensioner Honda Civic - YouTube
08-10-2019
#44
Dr Krieger of Modification
Re: stripped timing belt tensioner hole
There will be a length, diameter and thread count option. You made sure the thread count is the same, right?
08-27-2019
#45
Re: stripped timing belt tensioner hole
I just received my Time-Sert #5012 kit last week, and am going to attempt repairing my stripped tensioner threads within the next few days. It's the latest problem I've had in replacing the cylinder head (which I started last year, before the weather turned). I also had a squirrel or rat chew through one of the fuel injector wires, right at the connector, so I have a new connector to solder on. And I think I found where the oil was leaking from--the crank seal was kind of weepy.
This thing had better run when I try to start it up!
This thing had better run when I try to start it up!
08-29-2019
#46
09-12-2019
#47
Re: stripped timing belt tensioner hole
Success! The Big-Sert #5012 worked perfectly, and the bolt takes the full 33 ft/lbs torque for the tensioner. Got it all put back together and the Civic is running again. Drilling the block with the provided drill bit in a tap handle is very tedious work, and that took the longest. (I thought there might have been a Helicoil in there, but there wasn't, so the drilling was more tedious than if I had purchased the regular Time-Sert kit for it.) But the rest went easy. Installing the insert is a little disconcerting though--once it gets bottomed out in its counterbore, the install tool is difficult to turn. Feels like you're bottoming out, but you're not--it is just the insert locking into place. I also used red (permanent) threadlocker on the insert--no way it's backing out! I was also able to remove the tensioner bolt after having it torqued down, and that insert held perfectly.
One thing to watch for--make certain that the counterbore is cut all the way down to the tool's limits. The insert has a shoulder that needs to fit flush inside that counterbore once the insert is installed. This is part of what "locks" it into place, to prevent you from screwing the insert too deep into the hole. Otherwise, the tensioner will not sit flush if the counterbore is not deep enough.
As luck would have it, one of the valve cover bolt holes in the rebuilt head was stripped. But for that, I just used a Helicoil, and in that low stress application (7 ft/lbs), it works fine, and only takes a minute or two to install.
So like others have said--no need to pull the engine to fix the stripped tensioner hole. The Big-Sert kit is expensive, but the tools are all very high quality (this is the "real stuff" here, like machinists would use), and it's cheaper than replacing an engine, and less work than pulling an engine out to repair it.
for the Big-Sert kit!
One thing to watch for--make certain that the counterbore is cut all the way down to the tool's limits. The insert has a shoulder that needs to fit flush inside that counterbore once the insert is installed. This is part of what "locks" it into place, to prevent you from screwing the insert too deep into the hole. Otherwise, the tensioner will not sit flush if the counterbore is not deep enough.
As luck would have it, one of the valve cover bolt holes in the rebuilt head was stripped. But for that, I just used a Helicoil, and in that low stress application (7 ft/lbs), it works fine, and only takes a minute or two to install.
So like others have said--no need to pull the engine to fix the stripped tensioner hole. The Big-Sert kit is expensive, but the tools are all very high quality (this is the "real stuff" here, like machinists would use), and it's cheaper than replacing an engine, and less work than pulling an engine out to repair it.
for the Big-Sert kit!
05-31-2021
#48
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FYI,
I purchased a big-sert kit 5012c and a shorter (14mm I think) insert from time-sert to repair my failed heli-coil install from previous mechanic.
I can't even begin to say how impressed I was with time-sert. Part got here in less than a day. Quality of the kit was outstanding. Not cheap, but you get what you pay for in this case. It was an absolute pleasure to use. Only down side is I did have to "re-machine" the studs of the time-sert drill bit, tap, and countersink to fit into my hand tapping chuck. Other than that, the install went perfectly.
If anyone else gets into this situation, I have a once used big-sert 5012c which is the perfect tool for the job which I don't think I will be needing ever again. I'll sell it to you for much cheaper than you will find it anywhere else. Hit me up with a PM.
Cheers!
I purchased a big-sert kit 5012c and a shorter (14mm I think) insert from time-sert to repair my failed heli-coil install from previous mechanic.
I can't even begin to say how impressed I was with time-sert. Part got here in less than a day. Quality of the kit was outstanding. Not cheap, but you get what you pay for in this case. It was an absolute pleasure to use. Only down side is I did have to "re-machine" the studs of the time-sert drill bit, tap, and countersink to fit into my hand tapping chuck. Other than that, the install went perfectly.
If anyone else gets into this situation, I have a once used big-sert 5012c which is the perfect tool for the job which I don't think I will be needing ever again. I'll sell it to you for much cheaper than you will find it anywhere else. Hit me up with a PM.
Cheers!
06-01-2021
#49
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Re: stripped timing belt tensioner hole
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